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Posts posted by KevinMac

  1. Someone mentioned sometime ago that he removed the hydraulic motosr and rams, disconnected the lines and filed them up with PS fliudand leak preventer and it worked.

    Did you check the rams themselves when the wing is up. These tings catch a .lot of dirt, and sometimes just need to be cleaned up.

  2. Had a similar issue with my 2002 996t, but in this case was a P0491 secondary air valve circuit. along with a moosing sound on cold startup! Well to make a long story short, the required vacuum of 20lbs was only at 16, so in essence the SAV was not getting enough, making the internal diaphram resonate. One divertor valve was starting to leak. It is recommended you go after market with the divertor valves since te Bosch OEMs are known to fail. I went to Champion for the pair ( Forge),with 90 degree vacuum connections, cost was $350 for the pair. They are much larger and fixed the issue!

  3. Go to Importatnt Topics in the 996 forum, once there go to "Lost Radio Code" There is a very good chance you could get the code. Good Luck.

    I f you can't get it there, you will have to pull the radio, see the SN and model # and go online and do a search and pay! I paid ,and got the right code.

    Try these if you need to! There are more if you search on Becker radio codes



  4. U guys misread my post what I did say was with 160 thermo and housing, the baseline changes. Therefore when under highway speeds It is possible the car will run at less than 180 or somewhere cooler then when the 180 is in.! When in stop and go, the temp will go up, but when under way should cool down to a possibly less than then 215. Meaning the aggregate is less than when the 180 is in. I never said the 160 will overall keep it from going to 215 or so! My car with the 180 thermo in it with ambient temps at 50 degrees and on the hwy my car runs slightly above 180 nothing like the temps at more than 190! I agree airflow and flow determine the actuall effeciancy of the system.

  5. Whether you agree with changing out the thermo as offered by L&N is not for debate here since L&N has a pretty good reputation on Porscghe rebuilds and fixes for Porsche engineering foo pahs! So based on my discussion L&N has stated there are no issues running the 160 thermo and recommendds it for hot climates and stop and go traffic. The 160 thermo just lowers the baseline of when it opens therefore giving one more time to reach the higher temps then with a 180 thermo. One has to remember Porsche has designed their engines to run in a very large variety of climates, as obvious by their recommended oil list. So to just dismiss this suggestion made by a very reputable aftermarket engineering firm is just opinion with no fact to back it up! I for one living on SE florida plan to make the thermo change. If not satsfied, just put the old one back! IIt's niot only easy to change but it will not put a huge dent in your wallet. In this case I have every bit of confidence in L&N

  6. I think that is a great idea and one we needed for some time. The stock thermo doesn't even start flowing until well past 180 in reality. But isn't the Porsche tax on a low temp thermostat kinda high?

    LN Engineering is now offering a 160 thermo and housing as opposed to the stock 180. This might help! It fits the M96 and M97! Cost $171.95


    L&N assured me there are no issues using this thermo setup! I also raised the concern!

  7. The front bumper air ducts and wheel well liner need to come off then the radiator is accessible.

    Maybe a couple hours of work total.

    thats the info I am looking for, :)

    the car is in storage and I plan to fix it before spring.


    "Porsche certified" means any Porsche dealer should be address your issue. Even if you were not the original buyer the certification is transeferable and stays with the car. The key here is I do not know if the certification carries across the border. I would find out.

  8. Hi, I have become the owner of a 02 c4s in forrest green with tiptronic. it has 19k miles and looks mint.Porsche cert in Nov08

    I am noticing a strong coolant ador and steam from the front drivers side after my sunday morning drive. :cursing:

    There it is a wet rad in the front bumper on the driver side.

    I am looking for some advice on replacing this rad please.


    Not trying to be sarcastic, if it is certified, you should have no issue bringing it in!

  9. I just got my car back after the new 3.6 engine conversion has been completed. The car is awesome except I'm not getting any sound to my speakers. The battery was obviously disconnected during the engine change and I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it.

    I have a Kenwood DDX7015 CD/DVD/NAVI with a large amp in the trunk. I did not install this system (previous owner) so I know nothing about it.

    I'm pretty good with an engine but not audio equipment. The company that did my conversion has no idea why there is no sound to the speakers. They will pay for any repairs or diagnosis to get it fixed.

    Just thought I would get some insight from the forum

    Any help would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks !!



    Usually the amp has a seperate power lead to the battery. If the battey cable was disconnected, I would assume that this cable may be hanging by itself. Pull the shroud and see if you have a power cable to the amp off! Power amps turn on and off by use of a sense singnal

    Hence the direct connection to the battery.

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