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If you do decide to paint, use an adhesion promoter prior to painting. Then proceed with primer color and clear. Make sure the plastic is free of silicones and greases, and mold release prior to spraying on the adhesion promoter. U can use alcohol or a good detergent to overcome any of these.
Someone mentioned sometime ago that he removed the hydraulic motosr and rams, disconnected the lines and filed them up with PS fliudand leak preventer and it worked. Did you check the rams themselves when the wing is up. These tings catch a .lot of dirt, and sometimes just need to be cleaned up.
Had a similar issue with my 2002 996t, but in this case was a P0491 secondary air valve circuit. along with a moosing sound on cold startup! Well to make a long story short, the required vacuum of 20lbs was only at 16, so in essence the SAV was not getting enough, making the internal diaphram resonate. One divertor valve was starting to leak. It is recommended you go after market with the divertor valves since te Bosch OEMs are known to fail. I went to Champion for the pair ( Forge),with 90 degree vacuum connections, cost was $350 for the pair. They are much larger and fixed the issue!
KevinMac replied to jtraol's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Those grills are fabricated. I don't think the factor grills will work that well since they are to be used in conjunction with the stock bass enclosures and speakers.
Probably threw a weight! Once you get the wheels rebalanced and I assume you are having the rims balanced with stick on weights. If so take some of that metal tape used for home AC systems, and take a small amount and put it over the stick on weights.
I f you can't get it there, you will have to pull the radio, see the SN and model # and go online and do a search and pay! I paid ,and got the right code. Try these if you need to! There are more if you search on Becker radio codes http://www.radio-code.co.uk/becker-radio-codes.html http://www.sws-solutions.co.uk/radio_coverage_becker.php
U guys misread my post what I did say was with 160 thermo and housing, the baseline changes. Therefore when under highway speeds It is possible the car will run at less than 180 or somewhere cooler then when the 180 is in.! When in stop and go, the temp will go up, but when under way should cool down to a possibly less than then 215. Meaning the aggregate is less than when the 180 is in. I never said the 160 will overall keep it from going to 215 or so! My car with the 180 thermo in it with ambient temps at 50 degrees and on the hwy my car runs slightly above 180 nothing like the temps at more than 190! I agree airflow and flow determine the actuall effeciancy of the system.
Whether you agree with changing out the thermo as offered by L&N is not for debate here since L&N has a pretty good reputation on Porscghe rebuilds and fixes for Porsche engineering foo pahs! So based on my discussion L&N has stated there are no issues running the 160 thermo and recommendds it for hot climates and stop and go traffic. The 160 thermo just lowers the baseline of when it opens therefore giving one more time to reach the higher temps then with a 180 thermo. One has to remember Porsche has designed their engines to run in a very large variety of climates, as obvious by their recommended oil list. So to just dismiss this suggestion made by a very reputable aftermarket engineering firm is just opinion with no fact to back it up! I for one living on SE florida plan to make the thermo change. If not satsfied, just put the old one back! IIt's niot only easy to change but it will not put a huge dent in your wallet. In this case I have every bit of confidence in L&N
L&N assured me there are no issues using this thermo setup! I also raised the concern!
LN Engineering is now offering a 160 thermo and housing as opposed to the stock 180. This might help! It fits the M96 and M97! Cost $171.95 http://www.lnengineering.com/lowtemperaturethermostat.html