KevinMac

Totally agree, you need a warrantee on these cars unless money is no object, but then if that was the case, you'd always have a brand new one on the drive. I have made my mind up to sell when mine is 8.5 years old with 6 month Porsche warrantee left on it to attract a private buyer. If not before ofcourse......... It looks like a lot of research is required here to see if there is a warrantee about for you??

I have a little theory here though with these cars (or any car for that matter). I think you are better off buying a slightly higher mileage car (not high, just respectively high) so that the previous owner has had the teething troubles and has put right alot that will go wrong. If you buy a car with very low miles, it hasnt really loosened up and the troubles havent started yet. A better indication is when your car has been used regulary (daily) cold and hot starts all year round, with 30k plus on the clock, also with a Porsche warrantee continuing. That way things have been tested and problems should have already shown up and been corrected. Its very nice to have a really low mileage car agreed, but..........

Just keep in mind that you don't hear complaints from those who do not have bad expierences. Once a complaint hits the internet, everyone jumps on board and it gets exaggerated to all cars etc..

Actually based on some data the 2000 thru 2002 were pretty good.

Looks like a worthwhile project, but I guess you can run into some challenges putting it all back together as new.

My temp also goes slightly to the right of 180 occassionally. I imagine I've got a similar collection of bug guts. :)

There is a very good series of posts about this in the 996 DIY section, it's not difficult and is really worthwhile doing regularly. You wont get all of the stuff out with a vacuum or leaf blower. Loren has listed a step by step guide for removal and re assembly.

I don't think the temps you all are seeing is unusual for city driving!

What brand of gasoline do you use? Does anyone use the so-called "No-name" brand at the local corner convenient store? I would like to know why you use your particular type of gas. I am not referring to Super unleaded and such, but the type of filling station you buy your gas from.

I would appreciate your response.

I use whatever I can find to be the cheapest. Do a search on the internet. You will find that the is really no difference between no name fuels and branded fuels. Fuel has to meet certain standards by law. Some branded may add a little more detergeant, but still have to meet the octane and minimum fuel additives as per gov't regulations.

Hi

I need to change my right side radiator (MY99, 996). I found a new one at Ebay, but the guy says it´s only for the left side.

In my opinion the radiator looks symmetric, so just changing one plug it goes both sides. Is it true?

The parts diagram give two different reference numbers.

Regards

Kare

I found PNs 99610613251, and 99610613270 for the right radiator. From what I can see the 99610613270 is for the C4S model.

Here ya go the manuals are available for downloading

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

Hold it don't use Mobil 1 0w-40.? It's on the porsche recommended oil list and meets euopean extended specifications. So what's up with that?

Just an FYI, if you read this article and others by CR, CR does not have any complaints aginist the model years showing good reliability. Infact hey have said many good things about the cars in those respective years. So I am not so sure the biased comment holds up.

The only thing I would probably do different is put a set of mid or sub woofers in the doors. Such as Visonik VB60's or Image dynamics.

I have a 1999 c2 6 speed. ... The luggage situation was not a problem as we even took 1 set of golf clubs (behind the seat) and used duffle bags up front.

I just purchased a 2000 996 and have not taken delevery of it yet. I have been wondering if I could squeeze my golf stick in the car. My wife and I are palnning a golf trip to Ann Arbor, Michigan with the car. We were going to try to fit 2 sets of stick in the car. Not sure how yet.

Were you able to put the entire bag with clubs in there or did you have to remove them from the bag?

Thanks,

Tom

U might with the back seats folded down and use the rear self and back seat area.

I think some of the references may have been little misleading. I think some were not talking so much as cold air intake system as they were talking about the cold air kit for $225 with the additional BMC filter for $120. The actual cold air intake system for $695 seems to pull in hot air as oppsed to outside cold air, at least according to the pictures.

Well lets just say this, the higher the rpm the more wear. So if you like 4k so be it. But in my case for around town driving I don't let it get below the mid 2k range. Which means it very rarely sees 6th. Sometimes stays in 4th for extended periods.

Thanks for everyones input.

Loren and RFM helped me out on this topic so I knew what parts to order.

Yes I have the new O rings (small and large) and the special Porsche lubricant. The tubes need to be replaced because they are leaking badly. A visual inspection confirms this. I will also remove my cam cover bolts (one by one) and treat them with silicone sealant because they seem to be leaking as well.

I will let everyone know how it goes. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Phillipj

How does a metal tube leak unless somehow damaged. If u did not damage it, U are seeing oil residue from the "O" rings! I con't fathom how a tube can leak just on it's own!!

The "N" only means that Porsche passed on it's requirements to the manufacturer. The number after the N desigination means the amount of times the tires have gone through the homologation process. The "N" spec is put on a tire manufactured that meets Porsches traction, noise, comfort and treadwear needs.

With that said it does not mean that other manufacturers will not exceed the Porsche specs, they just have not gotten them certifed.

I suggest you do a compare of the tires with the "N" ratings and other brands. I for one have seen other tires exceed the original equipment tire results by testing.

A good reference is the tire rack. Put in your vehicle or tire size, it will give you all the tires available for your application, and test results.

http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp?keyword=...C13674x017&

Make sure he replaces the O rings with the tubes. Bad O rings most commonly cause the leaks.

U sure U need new tubes. bet the leaks are just the o rings!

Went ot the Tail Of The Dragon last year. I did 2,000 miles round-trip. 500 miles was at the Dragon and surrounding area.

I usually get to drive my car one day per weekend. I usually do about 350 miles in that one drive. Leave at about 6:00AM and am parked in the garage by 2:00 PM.

I have driven it over 300 muiles when i picked my car up. Comfortable and was great!

I just got finished reading Hartech's write up on 3.4 and 3.6 engine issues. Very informative. The bottom line seems to be that almost all of these engines will fail due to a thin wall and liner. It seems every engine they look at has "creep" or a ovaling of the cylinders. Long story short, our engines will seize/crack/explode from 50k - 150k miles. Not so bad if you make it to 150..but damm, It bothers me to find out they manufactored these things with such a weak spot! Basically have to calculate 10-15 grand in the near future. This article also makes the super charger issue seem closed. If these liners will distort and crack with normal loads then they will have a quicker trip to engine death with one installed. Anyone else read this article? Thoughts?

http://www.hartech.org/buyers.html

Part 4 contains the 996 engine issues pdf

I think you have to keep in mind they are also in the business of selling maintenance plans hence some of the comments within the write ups! So I would not say all engines and cars are effected.

Well, it's that time to look into replacing the alternator which seems to have a mind of it's own. Works fine for a while hovering around 14 volts and then the next moment .. back down to below 12 volts with ABS lights on. When I accelerated , it pops back up at 14 volts. Question ... is there a difference for alternators betrween manual and automatic transmission? I'm looking at getting one from Autozone and they only have one model and they couldn't tell if they're compatible for both trannies. The only difference I see between the auto vs manual are the pulleys. Most of the sites selling alternators also offer a single model ...

The one with the black pulley (right) is for the manual transmission vs the one with the exposed nut (left) which is for the tiptronic... which is similar to the one I have on my car. I pulled the pics off ebay..

I steer away from 3rd party rebuilds, been there and burned too many times. My feeling is these rebuild houses use cheap components such as regulators etc.. They don't last!

-----------------------------------------

I figured if I'm to purchase from Autozone, they offer lifetime warranty on the alternator. I can alway return it for warranty replacement. At $225.49 and $90 core, its reasonably priced . Their alternator does not come with a pulley which I assume I can easily transfer from my alternator.

I guess the question is how many times do you want to continually replace it!. You may luck out, but in my past expierence, they just don't last.

Well, it's that time to look into replacing the alternator which seems to have a mind of it's own. Works fine for a while hovering around 14 volts and then the next moment .. back down to below 12 volts with ABS lights on. When I accelerated , it pops back up at 14 volts. Question ... is there a difference for alternators betrween manual and automatic transmission? I'm looking at getting one from Autozone and they only have one model and they couldn't tell if they're compatible for both trannies. The only difference I see between the auto vs manual are the pulleys. Most of the sites selling alternators also offer a single model ...

The one with the black pulley (right) is for the manual transmission vs the one with the exposed nut (left) which is for the tiptronic... which is similar to the one I have on my car. I pulled the pics off ebay..

I steer away from 3rd party rebuilds, been there and burned too many times. My feeling is these rebuild houses use cheap components such as regulators etc.. They don't last!

These are required in North America :angry:

I had two black bumperettes either side of the license plate. Replaced them with ones that match the color of my car!

I would forget about HP and torque gains claimed by aftermarket products. There are just too many variables to net what is claimed. On another note the Fab mufflers do improve the sound over the stock mufflers. Based on the Fabspeed video there does seem to be less restriction engineered into the muffler, and there seems to be good quality in assembly, but as far as gains, well I wouldn't put so much credence into the claims.

I agree with 99C2, I also bought the Dansk tips but the ovals. It makes a nice difference. The Dansk are of great quality.

While you're in there make sure that the fork arms are updated and suggest you replace the slave as a PM.

Have your RMS inspected.

Did you try west coast recyclers. They are Porsche recyclers, and you probably can get one for less than the dealer with low mileage.

Here is one:

http://www.911pcar.com/Porsche_Parts/porsc...arts.htm#Brains

I vote for Lloyd's. They list several grades of quality, the worst of which is very good. My OEMs will go back in when I sell it.

I like black mats in my sea of Savanna interior,

Why not use the porsche mats

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...96gt3interiorup

by dme do you mean the computer on the back of the car the one under the rear glass and seats one or both? why did you not perferr the other route with the variocam plus connectors piggyback things .......can you send me info on theses products ..... so with theses piggyback variocam controllers do you keep your stock computers and harness ect what must be programmed :help: sorry im just good with the wrenches jajaja

Do a search on this site, I seem to recall someone else was doing it, but it never ran right. There was a lot of retrofitting and pat change outs, needed to get the job done correctly.