KevinMac

First off it looks like you have an 2001, so what suspension warranty? Secondly, the recommended installer is not correct! Page up a little bit and see what the N designation is.

Go here:

http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/peex1.html

Go here these should fit:

http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/peex1.html

JamesD - better do your homework, Mercedes have a very bad reliability record, at least accrding to rports and cost more to repair than a Porsche. Just an FYI before you hit the switch better do your research!

Hello,

I have a 2003 C4 Cab finished in Basalt Black Metallic. I am not the original owner, so unsure of prior treatments, but the paint seems to have a certain amount of polish scratches and swirls, along with a couple very minor paint scratches (visible, but feels smooth).

I am looking to remove the swirls and ideally try to bring new life to the paint. It's in good condition, but not great condition, but i am also nervous about applying anything that can adversely affect the finish.

Any recommendations or thoughts on restoring the paint using polish? Does the fact that its a metallic finish have any implications on what i should do or not do to restore the finish? Hand polish vs. using a motorized polisher?

A friend recommended:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/car-polish-...rl-remover.html

but while they seem to have detailed information on their site, there is minimal reference to metallic paint finish.

Advise appreciated. thank you,

John

You may want to try a claybar kit first then hand wax.

As I siad the N rated tires are tested and designed to meet Porsche specs.

Actually you just said they were tested...read your own quote.

Well actually I was not wrong:

"Specification tires are fine-tuned tires designed by O.E. tire suppliers in conjunction with Porsche to meet its traction, noise, comfort and treadwear needs. Tires are rated from N0, which are mostly snow sport tires, to N5, the tires found on the GT2. The number on the N rating is the number of times a specific tire size from a particular tire manufacturer has gone through the homologation process. N-spec tires wear an N-spec badge on their sidewalls and are available through Porsche's dealer network"

In order to meet the stated specs they have to go through a certification process which involves testing.

"European homologation step is the testing of those components when fitted to the vehicle: field of vision of rear view mirrors, lamp installation, tire fitting etc. Parallel to those installation tests all other applicable safety- and environmental-related tests are conducted."

But my whole point was the "N" rating should not have insurance consequences.

The N level just means that Porsche has tested these tires on their vehilcle to meet handling ride etc specs.

This is not quite correct....I refer you to this thread: tirerack and N rated tires

I have used the Bridgestone S02s (OEM), PS2s, MPSC...but my favorite so far is the Yokos...Neovas for 18 and Advan Sports for bigger.

"In checking with our Michelin engineering contacts, they confirmed what we already knew, that OE tires are developed in conjunction with the vehicle manufacturer, and their exact design specifics are considered proprietary and confidential. Therefore, Michelin was unable to provide any details on the functional differences between the conventional Pilot Sport Cup and the N0 Porsche-OE derivative fitted to the new GT3.

As I siad the N rated tires are tested and designed to meet Porsche specs.

Well since they are doing all the fitting, painting, deactivation of the lid spoiler, and installation. doesn't seem too far off to me. I think anywere from 2200 to 3000 is probably where this would fall into. I am sure they are quoting U a price based on longer fitment times. Sometimes things have to be tweeked a little and lined up.

Just curious what others have paid recently for paint and install of a factory aerokit. I got a quote of $2,900, but honestly don't have any idea if that is good or bad. Thanks in advance.

Will

Had side skirts painted 4 months ago, $200 in a high end shop. I provided the paint code and installed them after they were painted. Is the price U got qouted include the installation also? I am going to instal the car graphics front end spoiler and lip again $200. Did you replace the front bumper. Then I can see paying more!

Being N rated should have no bearing on insurance as long as you have the correct speed rating. The N level just means that Porsche has tested these tires on their vehilcle to meet handling ride etc specs.

Sounds like your current vehicle is still in good shape and running well. Have you though about upgrades? ImagineAuto specializes in PCars and has a proven supercharge kit for the Boxter. I think their website is imagineauto.com, but not sure...you can do a google search. They are based in KC, but can ship the package and have your dealer or indie mechanic install. They seem to ahve a great reputation.

Hi C2cab,

Do you have any idea what the value of such Mod would be...and whether it would have a negative impact on the engine's life.

In addition, I would assume that would make the car very difficult to market if in a few years I decided to trade-up, right?

Thanks,

Gus

Gus,

From what I have heard, there are no issues with reliability on these mods. I know the supercharger kit on the 996 runs about $10K for parts. I think the Boxster kit is $6-7K for a 40% increase in HP. Probably another $1-2K for install (just a wild guess). Not cheap, but good bang for the buck, especially when you consider the transaction costs of a trade-up (sales tax, licensing, titles, inspections, etc) It would certainly make your car better performing, but you are right, you probably wouldn't get your money out of it when you sell it. If you plan on keeping the car for a while and are just looking for better performance it may be a good bet. If you think you may still get rid of the car in a couple years it probably isn't a financially astute decisoin. That said, you probably won't get your money out of any mods you make to it.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Gotta be careful with supercharging, these engines run over 11 to 1 not very tolerent of boost. The best way to do it is to reduce the compression by changing major parts.

I live in Fort Worth so have only used Autobahn for dealer needs. As the previous post mentioned most items are cheaper on the internet. I did contact Sunset Porsche for some M030 springs (they gave me a great price, cheaper than Pelican Parts). Then I contacted Autobahn. Autobahn was significantly (maybe twice) higher (don't remember exact numbers). When I balked he asked if I had found it cheaper and mentioned that I had contacted Sunset. He immediately dropped the price to within $20/set more than what Sunset had quoted. I usually try to support the local companies unless there is a significant price difference. In this case the price was close enough that I bought from Autobahn. Sunset quoted 1 month for delivery whereas Autobahn said 5 days. So I got it from Autobahn but would not hesitate to go back to Sunset. One thing to consider if you need to return an item it is much easier to drive over there than it is to mail it back (IMO).

Looking for parts go here

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...CFReQGgodj2UgCA

I have a left rear axle seal that is leaking. The vehicle is a 99 Carerra with Tiptronic. I have a service manual but unfortunately it only has the manual transimssion section. Is the left rear axle (half shaft) removed in the same manner? I am assuming the method of holding in the half shaft for the final drive is the same for the manual and tiptronic transmission. The service manual recommends using two bolts in the flange, threadinng them through the flange and putting a metal plate where the bolt will contact the housing and using the bolts to pry out the half shaft. I am doing exactly what they recommended but I encountered significant resistance and don't want to force anything without being sure that only the snap ring is holding it in.

OBTW Just finished the 60,000 mile service. Thanks to this forum and the information in the DIY section it was easy.

Thanks in advance for your help

Dave T

Try this site:

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

I just replaced my rears with 02-A 285/30/18 after 10K on the same basic tire. My Bridgestone fronts will go another round and I will most likley do something else next time as I will need to do all four then rather than just the rears. They are pretty quiet when new. Traction is super, ride is very good, and my only complaint is the short life. You do have to pay to play. May try Pilots next time.

Bridgestones RE960's - have a UTOG of over 400 and a 40K tread wear out waranty. Not many tires in this class have this! U may want to try the RE 960's. Have an excellent survey result as it deals with traction noise ride etc. Check them out @ The Tire Rack for more info.

ViolaGT3 - The 960's and GY Eagle F1 are on my short list, What intrgues me is both these tires have a high UTOG rating with the Bridgestone 40K tread wear waranty. Both have great survey ratings. Keep us up to date on the 960's.

Very nice enjoy it!

I highly suggest anyone interested in how OBD II functions on the Carrera pick up a copy of the 996 OBD II Manual (DME 5.2.2) -- (Sunset Imports has them on sale for $55). There are complete descriptions of function, theory, troubleshooting and Porsche terms (such warm-up cycle, drive cycle, trip, readiness code, etc.). A very valuable reference tool.

Loren........... superb!! That has made me smile! :D

Good because some who think thy have all the answers better read it.

The ECU in OBII has a cold paramater that is embeded within the table. This paramter can be changed under tuner conditions. The cold paramater preset by the factory is usuaully in the 60 degC to 80deg C. Once this temp is reached it goes to an off state which basically means that sensor input controls mixture. Until it reaches the preset value, the vehicle will

run at another mixture value other than the 14.7:1

This is basic OBDII. So anyone that says that once the O2 sensors reach their preheated temp the mixture goes to 14.7:1 does not understand the paramaters embeded in the ECU. Basic paramter setup by the manufacture and can be changed!

I highly suggest anyone interested in how OBD II functions on the Carrera pick up a copy of the 996 OBD II Manual (DME 5.2.2) -- (Sunset Imports has them on sale for $55). There are complete descriptions of function, theory, troubleshooting and Porsche terms (such warm-up cycle, drive cycle, trip, readiness code, etc.). A very valuable reference tool.

Loren........... superb!! That has made me smile! :D

As long as your secondary air pump is working properly, the difference in the amount of time it takes to go closed loop with your engine at idle versus driving away is immeasurable. The system will go closed loop in approximately the same amount of time, therefore, eliminating any addition time spent running rich. Therefore, the "running rich" argument is untrue. Open or closed loop is not dependent on engine temperature but on exhaust temperature.

Oh really, so what determines exhaust temp. Based on your comment all you have to do is wait for exhaust temps temps to rise. Hate to tell U, exhaust temps will run cooler when rich. You are partially correct, but the coolant temperature sensor controls almost exclusively the amount of fuel enrichment during times of cold running. More rich lower exhaust temps. O2 sensor does not come up to temp, open loop mode. Drive the car under laod, coolant temp comes up faster, sarts running more lean, exhaust temps come up quicker, O2 sensor goes into sending based on temp, and it now is in closed loop mode.

The air injection system pumps air into the exhaust system, bypassing the engine entirely. Your O2 esnors are also electrically heated. Educate yourself on the system and you'll learn how it works. Better yet, hook up your scanner and measure the time it takes the car to go closed loop, both ways.

I agree the pump bypasses the entire combustion process, so now tell me if the entire combusted mixture is not lean how the exhaust temps go up! Air pump simply dilutes the rich exhaust gasses with more air diluting the hydro carbons in an already burned fuel mixture. Combustion already took place. BTW since the coolant temp has not come up the ECU will not have enough input based on the table to actually make the car run at the proper 14.7 ratio, until the temp has come up. True closed loop mode is when the ECU can make very minor adjustments to the mixture. Otherwords a fully warmed engine, based on the coolant temp, O2 input, air temp, air flow etc. will it be in true closed lop mode where minor adjustments can be made. No one is debating if the O2 sensor is heated or not! But when in true closed loop mode the O2 sensor will have more fuel ratio input then when the engine is cold.

The secondary air pump is strictly an emission device to ward off the rich fuel pollutants. when the engine is cold!

As far as a scan tool your tool measures exhaust temps and exahust emissions? I bet the tool you are talking about only shows the O2 sensor coming up to temps and sending input to the ECU!

So no education needed!

As long as your secondary air pump is working properly, the difference in the amount of time it takes to go closed loop with your engine at idle versus driving away is immeasurable. The system will go closed loop in approximately the same amount of time, therefore, eliminating any addition time spent running rich. Therefore, the "running rich" argument is untrue. Open or closed loop is not dependent on engine temperature but on exhaust temperature.

Oh really, so what determines exhaust temp. Based on your comment all you have to do is wait for exhaust temps temps to rise. Hate to tell U, exhaust temps will run cooler when rich. You are partially correct, but the coolant temperature sensor controls almost exclusively the amount of fuel enrichment during times of cold running. More rich lower exhaust temps. O2 sensor does not come up to temp, open loop mode. Drive the car under laod, coolant temp comes up faster, sarts running more lean, exhaust temps come up quicker, O2 sensor goes into sending based on temp, and it now is in closed loop mode.

Or you can buy the CD storage to replace it.

Here's a place to buy the shelf:

http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim3.html

Certified is most probably out based on the year U are looking at. So a pre inspection,is a good way to go. Personally just because it's a Porsche it has no more risk than any other used car to make the trip.

Yes, there is only one.

Technically they stopped offering it as an option a year or two before your car was built.

This place offers 2 colors black and granite gray based on year. Looks like for the 04 only comes in black. Not sure of the differences.

http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/interiortrim3.html

I suggest that as the car runs rich initially at startup from cold (you can smell excess 'fuel' at the exhaust for a while) then if you leave to idle it will take much longer for it to reach temp and hit normal parameters prolonging this 'rich' condition. If you drive away, then it gets 'warm' quicker. Every manufacturer will tell you NOT to let a car idle without a load applied. Think it maybe something to do with carbonising the valves too?

I agree the car does run rich on cold statup, it's in open loop mode meaning using a predetermined fuel and spark map. It's not until certain paramaters are met that allows it to go into closed loop mode with dependance on sensor input to actually try and achieve the proper ratios. The more rich blow by produces more contaminates in the oil, not to mention washing the cylinders walls more. The faster you warm the engine up, the quicker the condensation internally boils off. Not to mention a too rich a mixture for a prolonged period of time cause carbon. No myth!

Looking at the cars in the car park where the sun is now shining, I see mine is the only one full of condensation.

What i found on the climate control if you divert all air to the dash vents, no need to have the AC on, the windshield will not fog. I noticed it when the control was set to have air released to the deforst vents and the front vents. Was just a matter of pushuing the select button.