KevinMac

When you say it smells hot are you refering to the smell of coolant? If so the cap on the coolant bottle may be bad, there have been changes to the cap. Not sure where yours fits in.

P1128 or P1130 (oxygen sensing at rich threshold) is stored in the memory, this means that the fuel/air mixture is too lean.

Look for vacuum leaks, bad injector, fuel pump delivery, leaks in the exhaust etc.. Not sure about the 996, but I have seen this problem when the vacuum canister is rusted out. Is the vacuum canister in the right fender of the 996? The buzzing may be that!

I was trying to avoid this, but now I think I need the same assistance. Gettiing ready to upgrade to Litronics, will have to pull the battery cable and of course never got the dealer to provide me with the code for the stereo

Model BE4462

SN X5037966

Thanks in advance.

Try 7143

or

7141

Loren - always helpful, thanks!

I was trying to avoid this, but now I think I need the same assistance. Gettiing ready to upgrade to Litronics, will have to pull the battery cable and of course never got the dealer to provide me with the code for the stereo

Model BE4462

SN X5037966

Thanks in advance.

[Yes, MK II skirts will fit on a MK 996. I had them on my car.

Pete

Thanks

You need a conditioner that has UV filters, there some products I have found that claims to have UV filters, I have not tried them, but maybe worth while looking into.

http://www.colourlock.co.nz/products/leather-fadegard/

Heres another!

http://allleathermaintenance.com/index.php...up699tremfaio00

ArmorAll Leather gel also is supposed to have UV filters alos.

Good Luck!

Just wondering if the AerokitII sideskirts will work on a 2000 996. I prefer the AerokitII over the Aerokit version.

Thanks in advance

From what I have seen shops will not cut drilled rotors, looks like new rotors and pads! I agree looks like they were over heated!

I wouldn't with 85K on the clock. Look around and you will find one with a lot less mileage. That's just me! You may be getting rid of someone's problem. ( get over the poor man's porsche enigma)

Actually the newer driver materials are not as heavy as paper cones. Reason being paper ones need to be of a thicker paper to keep cone distortions down as compared to kevlar, graphite etc.. Wattage rating of speakers is really not a priority one should worry about as much as frequency, sensitivity and distortion. Lower impedance usually requires more amperage thus heavy output stages of the amplifiers are needed. For instance, 4 ohm nominal speakers due to driver movement can actually be seen having less than 4 ohms under certain frequencies.

The reason better speakers need more power is usually they produce more bass, which requires more cone excursion and heavier magnets. Thicker materials can provide less distortion under longer excursions. Bose unfortunatley cannot produce the full audio spectrum with any authority due to there driver construction. Bose engineering concentrates more on imaging then actual overall delivery which is comprised of dynamics, frequency, low distotion across the full spectrum, and full frequency. Usually Bose drivers are too small to actully deliver the lower end hence the loss of the dynamics. Great on midrange!

An amp in itrself will not provide any better sound quality thru a marginal driver. So just the opposite should be done, replace the drivers first. Most after market drivers will work fine on a 20 watt amp. Most mobile audio speakers mniimul wattage to produce quality sound will fall within thecapability of a 20 watt amp. The amp is needed to drive the better quality speakers to higher levels. Which should allow less distortion at the higher levels. When you have an idea of the configuration you want, configured the crossovers then amp up providing a bass driver and adjust the crossover to match your acoustic environment.

The replacement of the drivers first will net you an improvement, on their own merit.

I use Falken 452 for every day driving, they are fine and low cost. I keep separate wheels and tires for track days.

Check out Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Postion. looks like it offers performance and stret driveability with lonfger tread life.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...es&place=36

Short time I have been here it has been discussed. You need the security code. This is the anti theft deterent when your radio is pulled or you loose power to the radio ( ie battery cable off).

In order to get the code, go here. They will charge you.

http://www.beckerautosound.com/

MX - going from 87 to 93 there would be a difference, since 87 is too low in a 11:1 compression ratio causing preignition with fuel lower then 91. Porsche specifically says to use 93 but 91 can be used, since this is in the lower parameter for the knock sensor to adjust accordingly. This is the reason Porsche has a recommended octane and a mnimul octane listed. There is only so much advance and fuel adjustment based on the maps written for 93 octane. Once again, these maps can be tailored by using a chip or map upgrade to take advantage of higher octane. The only true way to know if performance is different is to actually use a dyno, since driving can effect performance. I'm in 90 plus heat and running anything more than 93 octane has no increase in performance.

It is true that combustion temp is a factor in the determination of octane, as is pressure. So as you go to a higher altitude you could litteraly use lower octane since the available air is thinner and in essence lower compression. BTW octane measurement uses temperature as a an input to determine octane. So running at 85 degrees a sea level, should provide max performance as specified by the manufacturer.

Mxdave - you seem to be forgetting that the fuel and advance curves are already mapped, they are not open ended, so even if environmental conditions would allow as you say more advance etc the map will restrict, regardless if there is a knock sensor or not. Hence the reason for rechip or tune via a dyno and remap. So stock ECU with factory fuel and advance maps, it is very safe to say 100 octane will buy you nothing. You are limited by the predetermined map. Maps are not open ended there is a limit.

So what size MB quarts fit in the exisitng grills?

I have looked high and low for the ash tray delete, which is available, but it seems it only comes in black. So now the question is where can you get interior paint to match graphite gray?

Thanks Loren!

The manual specifically states that the recommended octane is 93, but 91 can be used and performance will be lost since the knock sensor will come into play.

Maps usually provide a curve based on the max amount of perfomence and driveability under stock conditions and available octanes. Now if 100 was readily available and the maps were written to it, then you probably would get more performance.

Porsche would capitalize on every thing available to increase output with less cost.

I would bet the previous owner may have instaled the upgrade kit, and did not wire it correctly. There is a whole process you need to go thru from a wiring perspective to have the Lit work correctly

Pjorgan - I agree, just like those devices that guarantee fuel savings by clamping on the fuel line and magnetically aligning the molecules! What a joke!

The only way to save fuel is to keep your car in top tune, and keep your foot out of it!

If anyone does use it, hope you don't spill it on your fender, bye bye paint!

Just a guess, but I would bet that since California is so stringent on pollution that those who only require 87 and use 93 out of the myth that you gain performance is still floating around, in actuality will not have complete combustion and pollute more. Just a theory! So the locals limit the octane.

Not so sure anything above 93 is going to benefit you anyway, since the maps are written to 93. It may be just a matter of more expense and no more output switching to 100. Sometimes going too much can hurt performance.

Need your opinion and help to the following, thanks in advance!

Purchased a 2000 C2 a week ago very low mileaqe (24k), looks brand new. So far love the drive.

1: The vehicle never came with the factory recommended maintenance book showing the oil change intervals etc.. I do have the owners manual. Is there a source to get the maintenance manual or chart?

2: Looking into changing out the gearshift and brake lever to a better looking one from CARNEWEL.com. How much time and effort is needed to do so.? Without really looking into it yet, does the center console have to come out.

3: Champion motors here in S Fla has the upgrade Litronic Xenon headlight kit for $1,300 their labor is $540 to install.

Does this seem to be high on the labor?

Thanks Loren

No do not use AV gas, it's classified as low lead, not no lead!