KevinMac

I have to agree, fuel additive should not have any effect on the oil! It is being introduced in the combusion portion of the engine. If anything dirt should be exited via the exhaust, or be burnt up under the combustion process. If there was any dirt introduced into the oil via blow by it would be so small the oil could handle with no problem, based on it's additive properties. Now if one was to do a major soak as some do with Seafoam, which i would not recommend then yes you need to change your oil because the cleaner will dilute the oil.

In the Techron case added to the fuel, there is not enough volume to do that by any means!

BTW all fuels contain detergents by law!

So add the techon if you want and don't worry about the oil until due for it's normal change interval.

Looking back that the old receipts - the same job was done 20K miles ago - front disks and pads 1000GBP at Porsche specialist.

If that was an Independent Porsche Specialist, how come they charged 50% more than an Official Porsche Centre?

http://www.porsche.com/uk/accessoriesandse...servicepricing/

The inside faces corrode really badly, especially if the car is used infrequently. The amazing thing is how bad they can get without being able to feel it through the pedal.

Heck mine rust right up right after I wash the car! Always drive it and apply brakes after car wash!

When you rev your engine in neutral, can you hold any rpm below 2.4k?

Mine ('03 egas) is like whenever I gives some gas, the rpm climbs from 700 to 2.4k steadily and never stops in between no matter how I try. Is that normal?

03 egas???

$2200 for a headlight assembly. Geez I upgraded my car from halogen to Xenon for a lot less than that. You should be able to do a lot better then that.

I agee, on the electronics statement. If you have power pulsating at the socket then it makes no sense. The only electronics is the Xenon power assembly and low and high beam .

I have Geico, seemed to be the cheapest when shopping 100/300 policy with 1000 deductible on comp and collision, $872/yr. Drive under 9k a year

There is a consumer mag that shows the 996 year 2000 and 2004 to have the least major engine problems. Then the major engine problems go up with the introduction of the 997. Year 2007 and 2008 seem to have overcome the engine problems for the 997. Take it for what it is worth.

tht's almost an inch difference in overall diameter and your odometer will read slower than actual speed.

Calculations show that when speedo reads 60 you will actually be going 62.5. I would be mire concerned with the handling since the sidewall is taller.

RMS on US 2003 C2 6spd Cab 34k miles

I am on my 3rd RMS. (2nd IMS is dry) All replaced under warranty

I have a question about these seals. I saw the new (latest greatest updatedest) replacement before they put in yesterday, is it true that Porsche does not put a tension spring around the lip of these seals? Evidently the new Cayenne seal has a spring on the lip.

Does anyone know what the thinking is on that? Is the crankcase pressure supposed to pressurize the lip enough to seal it? What happens when the seal gets older and harder? What happens in the winter when the car is parked facing up hill?

Frank

I have not seen the replacement seals, only pictures and it does seem there is no tension spring! Good question! From what I know there is more to the fix than just replacing the seal. The case bolts are supposed to be changed also with ones that come in the kit.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/996rms/rms1.php

Get a swivel joint and use the right extension to get to what you need.

Pops right off! Just pull

Actually acids are formed as a by product of oxidation. Oxidation happens when oil heats up. Oil manufacturers use magnesium or boron as an additive to neuatralize acid. Oxidation also causes sludge.

Acid is also formed by the normal combustion process which is in the form of blow by.

By products of combuston are deposited on the cylinder wall portions that are exposed to the combustion flame front above the top of the

piston and then carried into other components by the oil.

Rust and corrosion are results of water in the oil. All engines if not run up to temp will have water absored causing corrosion of which is countered by anti rust and corrosive additives in the oil. These additives do deplete over time and are considerd sacrificial.

The RS Spyder are carbon fiber and composite hence the reason for no drilling. Cross drilling provides better support for high temp and high braking situtations to offset the off gasing. Street, probably doesn't do much.

Same problem here, did the cap first, it was the tank. If you replace the tank change out the down level cap.

I just did mine two weeks ago. Suncoast Porsche has tanks for 99 thru 01 for $192 and coolant for about 28 gal. They were offering 10% off of those prices. Check with them to see if the offer is still valid.

Replacing the tank was not too bad. The key is putting a jack under the engine pad, just rear of the oil pan, jack up the engine to take the weight off the motor mounts, remove the left motor mount bolt, and lower the jack while still maintaining support. Remove the air pump, snorkel. You should be able to remove and install the new tank. Just be careful of the sending unit on the bottom of the tank. In addition, I removed the Porsche hose clamps and replaced them with full stainless steel clamps. The only place I could find full SS clamps was at Home Depot. Auto stores usually only cary the ones only with SS straps. I did not find the job too difficult, The hardest part is snaking the tank in and out. Total time was about 2 hrs. This is because it was my first. I can say after the first time it would be less than 2 hrs.

What's the best way to remove and re-install the light unit? I noticed after removing it one time, that there is a small bar that can be positioned "up" or "down" -- for a lack of better description. I think I may have installed it incorrectly because the lower portion doesn't meet up with the bumper correctly.

You need to access the plug on the inside of the trunk on the fender, use the tool that comes with the tool kit, and crank it out. It snaps out and then you can remove the whole assembly. Check your owners manual. Reverse the process and make sure the light snaps back in place when cranking the tool.

Got a resoponse from LN Engineering, they basically said the bearing technically could be replaced without the shaft removal, but know of no one doing it along with a problem could arise.

The good news is they are looking into developing a retrofit kit without teardown. Stay tuned.

RFM - Thanks, but he article actually quoted L&N Enginering who is a reputable Porsche parts and rebuild shop. Along with L&N there were two other Porsche engineering firms in the aftermarket design of parts and M96 rebuild. The article also provided info on internal oiling, cylinder chunking, connecting rod information etc. I found the information after doing a seach.

After reading th internet site, it looks like the entire IMS is replaced with the fix and the old is returned as a core.

Take a look at this and scroll down on the LN Engineering IMS solution..

http://www.lnengineering.com/boxster.html

I was refering to the model year 99 to 2001. According to the article the 99 to 01 have a larger single bearing race which is accessible thru the IMS cover. The article also says that the ealier double bearing was not accessible. Of which i heard as you have not accessible. This is why I brought it up since there really seems not to be a clear understanding. I have a note into L&N about this.

You have to open the engine completely to change the shaft, the actual factory rebuild engines have already the approx. same update.

The fix I am talking about is not a full shaft change but a bearing a carrier, o ring seals and nut. According to the article the older M96's had to have the case split to change out the bearing. From my understanding it looks like the IMS bearing is acccessible with the trans and flywheel removed.

Just finished reading the December issue of Excellence. In this issue the M96 engine was discussed as it realates to known failures.

L&N Engineeering seemed to have developed a fix for the IMS failures on these engines. The fix is a new bearing carrier, O rings, larger shaft and nut. Has anyone else read this article. Very informative. Was wondering if these parts are obtainable and can be used without major engine tear down on the 99 thru 01 M96. Would be nice to do the update as a precautionary measure.

If you haven't read the article, I recommend it!

Hi kevinmac, did you mean to quote me? If you did I'm not sure if you are agreeing/disagreeing with me.

I stated that the exhaust is too loud, reduces power at low rpm, is intolerable for extended use, not allowed on track days and attracts unwanted attention.

Porsche_911 would you really recommend this modification?

Could you clarify your points?

Cheers

I corrected my post. It's a TYPO, I forgot to add the "nt" in the word "would". I wouldNT recommend it. I agree with that response.

Just agreed with your recommendation to not do it!

I really wonder what these things do. It seems to me that they pull in a lot of hot air as oppsed to the stock system. Not sure on the K&N, but others I have seen seem to.

I want to adjust the handbrake on my 1999 c4.How do i get access to the adjusting nuts on the handbrake lever.How much of the centre console do i need to remove and how do i do it,Havent been able to find this info with a search.

Some folks call them "parking brakes".

Adjusting parking brake

By adjusting the double lock nut under the center console.

Hi Solihull,

I had the bypass pipes on my 996, they are not loud they are V.LOUD! only really suitable for fun :D

Aswell as annoying the neighbours they attract unwanted attention; boy racers and police are a particular problem.

If you want to know what you car will sound like take the mufflers off. Sounds awesome but becomes intolerable for any length of time. I've returned to the stock mufflers and have ordered a PSE system, anyone who wants the bypass pipes let me know.

One of the drawbacks I've noticed is a reduction in acceleration at low speeds. They are fine for racing as there is a little more top end power, problem is you won't be allowed to race as you will exceed the noise regulations at the track ;)

Cheers.

Well in my humble opinion, going straight thru is not going to buy you anything but a lot of noise. The only way to take advantage of bolt on mods is to have a custom tune done, that matches your configuration and intended driving. Putting on mods such as free flowing exhaust could decrease your performance. It's an endless cycle that we get caught up into. One mod leads to another in order to take advantage of the previous one installed.

I know you mentioned noise, but there have been studies done relating to driver fatigue vs. noise. The studies seem to point to driver fatigue increases over longer distances with higher than normal exhaust noise.

Hi Solihull,

I had the bypass pipes on my 996, they are not loud they are V.LOUD! only really suitable for fun :D

Aswell as annoying the neighbours they attract unwanted attention; boy racers and police are a particular problem.

If you want to know what you car will sound like take the mufflers off. Sounds awesome but becomes intolerable for any length of time. I've returned to the stock mufflers and have ordered a PSE system, anyone who wants the bypass pipes let me know.

One of the drawbacks I've noticed is a reduction in acceleration at low speeds. They are fine for racing as there is a little more top end power, problem is you won't be allowed to race as you will exceed the noise regulations at the track ;)

Cheers.

Well in my humble opinion, going straight thru is not going to buy you anything but a lot of noise. The only way to take advantage of bolt on mods is to have a custom tune done, that matches your configuration Putting on mods such as free flowing exhaust could decrease your performance. It's an endless cycle that we get caught up into. One mod leads to another in order to take advantage of the previous one installed.

I know you mentioned noise, but there have been studies done relating to driver fatigue vs. noise. The studies seem to point to driver fatigue increases over longer distances with higher than normal exhaust noise.

Got the usual tank leak last weekend replaced it with a new one this weekend. After going through a lot threads on this same subject, and to some it was said it was not an easy job. Some clipped off the GT3 fuel filter hanger support etc.. In my case it went fairly easy.

I found if you support the engine with a hydraulic jack, remove the left rear lower motor mount bolt, and then let the engine down while still supporting it, it gives you the necesary clearences you need. In my case I just had to remove the air pump. and the snorkel, no filter box removal necessary! Suince I have big hands it also allowed the tank sensor to be disconnected easily.

One other thing I replaced all the stock hose clamps with full SS ones. The full SS ones are aviliable at Home Depot. Others from auto parts stores only offer SS bands with nickle or plated carbon steel screw and heads.

If I am duplicating another post my appologies!

Thanks for the post on coolant tank replacement, I am about to replace my tank in 99-996. I was wondering if you just lossened the nut on the motor mt. and let the engine down, or removed the nut completely? and where did you drain the coolant? Thanks

I actually removed the nut. And just dropped the engine as far as it would go with the jack supporting it. Just make sure you support the engine behind the oil pan. There should be a spot on your engine that the jack head and a block of wood can support. Do not jack on the oil pan. There is a post on this site showing the jacking point. I removed the coolant with a 12v pump. The pump is used to evacuate oil out of marine engines. You could uses a suction pump and get it as low as possible and put a pan underneath and pull the lower hose. When you are done installing, just take a water hose and spray around the tank and exhaust to get rid of the smell before start up. good luck!