KevinMac

Did you throw a CEL with the K&N?

I just bought a 2000 Cab and the original owner installed a Kenwood Excelon system in the car.

Instead of compromising the rear center section for the sub woofer he installed it in the passenger side footwell with an aluminum grate to protect it.

Although I would never have gone to these extremes for sound it looks nice and sounds great. The car has Porsche silver back GT seats that slide all the way back so even my wife (who is 5-10"tall) has enough leg room.

Not the only solutuion but at least it keeps the integrity of the car without looking like a rice-burner.

That Saturn picture makes me queasy... :huh:

Phillipj

I like the amp position, but think I would have made a box to go behind the rear seats with matching carpet and same dimension as the rea deck. This would make it look like it's part of the deck.

Hmm, Someone else had the same Idea. Cool Here is the one I built in my spare time. I have built more than 2 dozen boxes in my day I must say that this was the most difficult. I plan on building a Fiber box molded to the car so that I can squeeze out enough air space to make the next one ported. I have had the RF power amp and P3 Subs for more than a year now just need the time.

(not sure how this will work I tried to link my pics that are in P-bucket but it said that the administrator does not allow from there?)

ViolaGT3, now I like that! That would be my preference. Nice job!

Got the usual tank leak last weekend replaced it with a new one this weekend. After going through a lot threads on this same subject, and to some it was said it was not an easy job. Some clipped off the GT3 fuel filter hanger support etc.. In my case it went fairly easy.

I found if you support the engine with a hydraulic jack, remove the left rear lower motor mount bolt, and then let the engine down while still supporting it, it gives you the necesary clearences you need. In my case I just had to remove the air pump. and the snorkel, no filter box removal necessary! Suince I have big hands it also allowed the tank sensor to be disconnected easily.

One other thing I replaced all the stock hose clamps with full SS ones. The full SS ones are aviliable at Home Depot. Others from auto parts stores only offer SS bands with nickle or plated carbon steel screw and heads.

If I am duplicating another post my appologies!

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This method is done on marine engines all the time, only reason being you can't get at the drain plug. With that said, it does not drain the engine as completly as the drain plug.

I drained my engine oil without raising any wheel at all. It's not a problem. In fact if you don't keep it level you may not get all the oil.

I just bought a 2000 Cab and the original owner installed a Kenwood Excelon system in the car.

Instead of compromising the rear center section for the sub woofer he installed it in the passenger side footwell with an aluminum grate to protect it.

Although I would never have gone to these extremes for sound it looks nice and sounds great. The car has Porsche silver back GT seats that slide all the way back so even my wife (who is 5-10"tall) has enough leg room.

Not the only solutuion but at least it keeps the integrity of the car without looking like a rice-burner.

That Saturn picture makes me queasy... :huh:

Phillipj

I like the amp position, but think I would have made a box to go behind the rear seats with matching carpet and same dimension as the rea deck. This would make it look like it's part of the deck.

Quality of sound is a product of a system and the enviroment it is in. A head unit by itself will not yield much or any at all. In order to get most bang for the buck you need to do the entire system from amp to speakers. Besides the environment of a Porsche is not that conduscive to great sound quality.

I think this one is going to be hard to determine. Not knowing the state of actual end product from the forging process could lead to a lot of speculation. I have to agree if the LWFW was balanced to the unit than there really should be no harmonics weighing in on the fatigue. The Porsche article was written for those who use aftermarket bolt on parts and just assume it's okay. If one is going to use an engine in race trim at the higher rpms, it only makes sense that the bolt on components should be balanced as part of the unit.

It would not surprise me that there was a flaw in the forging process. It all equated to quality control. Hence the reason to verify componets soundness when installing in an engine used for race, or high speed.

Let us know what you find!

Plastic polish

10 records ... any issues? Not at a dealer.

If you really want to buy the car spend the $30 for a Carfax and spend $100-$200 for a PPI (pre purchase inspection).

I agree with Loren, cheap insurance

I wouldn't do it! The 55 series will have a higher side wall meaning less handling. Porsche actualy tunes the suspension based on a set of assumptions. So this very well takes it outside the assumptions.

Stock tire

Sidewall4"

Radius 12.5

Diamter 25.1

Circumfernece78.8

Revs per mile 804

205/55/17

Sidewall4.4

Radius 12.9

Diamter 25.9

Circumfernece 81.3

Revs per mile 779

I did it on a 2000 not on a 2003, on the 2000 it was easy!

Yes it's had it's 60 k service and I spoke to the mechanic that has serviced the car the last two years. The owner is very anal anbout the care of the car.

I want it now, I'm going through Porsche withdrawals.

I Have to wait.

Thanks for the comments and I will never drive that fast again unless I'm on a track.

Phillipj

Nice congrats- don't wreck this one (LOL). Just make sure you have it checked for IMS and RMS leaks!

Must also be your local. I have no complaints!

Just an FYI, the factory headers really are not that bad! Infact it is my understanding that the 996 1999 296 HP engines and the 2000 996 300HP engine was basically a minor change in exhaust and some minor engine mapping. So in essence the factory system is pretty good. Looking at the 2000 996 set and it's tubing, I really don't think any 3rd party will net you much or anything at all!

Read the fine print, policies may require proof of maintenace before they pay for anything. If this is the case you should ask the question who is required to perform the maintenance, keep records.

Prior to 0W-40 Mobil 1 the recommended oil by Porsche was 15W-50 Mobil 1. Most of the older Owners Manuals state that.

Okay - I've read through as many posts as I can on oil, and seen enough oil fights!

No sense in trying to argue an issue that has too many experts and individual viewpoints. I'll continue using Mobile Water (since the only tangible data point I have is a failed engine within 3k miles after the oil was switched to M1 15W-50).

But I still maintain the following items:

• lower weight = better cold start protection (related to "w" 1st rating on multi-viscosity oil)
  
  
• higher weight = better race (high-heat, high-rpm) protection (related to 2nd rating in multi-viscosity oil)
  
  
• less of an absolute difference in min/max for multi-viscosity = less additives and less viscosity "breakdown" over time
  
  
• oil change intervals = anything less than 5-7k miles is a waste (after break-in)
  
  
• oil analysis = why not if you have the time, patience, and interest (but you need to collect multiple data points for it to be valid)
  
  

The rest is up to us as individuals to decide - as far as I'm concerned, there's some level of rolling the dice. I don't think anyone, including Porsche, has a definitive answer on what's "best."

Agree with most points except the statement on absolute difference. This statement is true with dino oil , but synthetics have an advantage. The branched-chain structure of synthetic oils naturally resist changes in viscosity with temperature. It's just the way they're made. Therefore, true synthetic oils often don't need any viscosity improvers at all! This is one reason synthetic oils last so much longer than non-synthetics.

No one said that 0w-40 vs 5w-40 provides any better hot protection. I simply stated that in my climate I don't need the 0W ( winter) grade where I live. In fact he 100 deg c spec are the same for both 0w-40M1 and 5w-40 Cast. The only reason I use 5w-40 is, it meets the European specs which is ACEA: A3, B3, B4, MB 229.3, MB 229.1, BMW LL-98, and Porsche approved. It would be nice if there would be a universal spec for all manufacturers- standardize. As a side note, BMW LL indicates a long life oil. BMW along with Porsche etc, have very wide drain intervals.This is not advocating one should follow the long intervals, just a spec that informs me that there is still protection there for long intervals. I follow manufacturer recomendations. Personally my view is why do they go through the trouble of making the recommendations if they don't provide any benefit.

Does the noise change when the cabin fan changes speed at all?

Check the dryer. Run the Ac and pull the plastice cowl/battery covers off and see if you can hear the noise.

Thanks to both for the replies. After taking it to a proper specialist he diagnosed it within minutes. It's a leak in the pipework going up the rear

arch to the compressor.

It seems the leak causes the vibration to travel through the pipes and the noise appears to be from the front of the car.

Just goes to show that the first so called ripoff 'specialists' don't know what they are doing and wasted 4 hours not looking further than watching time clock up in labour per hour.

Then after clocking some time up they gave it back and charged for telling me they didn't know what was wrong with it.

I need to book it in and get it done.

When this is sorted I'll post on here a new thread praising the new proper 'specialist' who knows porsche inside out. Credit where credit is due.

Thanks to those who replied to this thread.

Great good news!

Does the noise change when the cabin fan changes speed at all?

Check the dryer. Run the Ac and pull the plastice cowl/battery covers off and see if you can hear the noise.

15-50 is on the list... am I missing something here?

At the risk of starting another "oil wars" thread :oops:

The December 2007 Porsche approved oils list doesn't have anything more viscous than 5W-50 as far as I can tell. Given that cold starts are a major wear issue on any engine - the "Mobile Water" seems like a good cold start oil, and the rating to a 40 weight when hot should provide ample protection - given it's the factory fill also.

I've tended to run heavier oils when given the option in the past - because I also tend to drive hard. However, after reading and understanding the issues with engine tolerances, and multiple service duties (like oil acting as a hydraulic fluid for variocam), etc., I'll stick with the Porsche approved oil list. You can find it under the 996 TSBs if you're a member, and search for "Oil."

Oh, and I received a remanufactured engine, courtesy of the Porsche CPO warranty, after my intermediate shaft (bearing) failed.

I haven't seen 15W-50 on the list. I used Castrol 5w-40 Porsche approved, since where I live I don't need to go down to the 0W. I don't think I have ever seen 5W- 50 being sold off the self! Maybe available on the net.

I took the car for a ride this morning and while I was doing about 65 I started to see white smoke in a rear of my car . I pulled over , stoped the engine . There was a huge white cloud of smoke coming out left muffler . I checked the oil and it was almost empty . The oil gauge was reading only 1.5 . The engine still starts so is not blown but any idea what it may be ????

ps.

after i tow the car i got back to my garage i noticed a few oil spots on the concrete.

Thanks for any input before I go to the repair shop.

Daniel

2002 911 cabrio 3.6L

How is the coolant level. usually white smoke is coolant, not oil. Oil is blue. You may have a situation whereas the coolant is washing down the cylinder and burning off.

Just out of curiosity anyone try the 996 RSS Intake Plenum.

http://www.rpmracinginc.com/2products-rss.htm

I purchase a Genuine Porsche touch up set from the dealer using the color code from the sticker on the car. Other than telling you not to inhale the stuff, there are no directions. The kit has 2 12 ml bottles with brushes attached to the caps. I searched the files for paint repair, touch-up, etc; no applicable links.

I would assume you should clean the surface of the paint chip (Q-Tip and mild solvent like paint thinner?), dab the color into the cavity and let flow out, allow to dry, then dab on the clear coat. Hopefully enough was applied to level out flat and not leave a blob above the surface.

Any advice or suggestions will be appreciated.

It is very, very important to clean the surface with a proper cleaning agent before applying the paint. If you have access toan auto paint store, get a solven such as "Prepsol" or "Pre-Kleano". If not, you can use the original Formula 409 (it doesn't leave a residue to interfere with paint adhesion, the way most other household cleaning agents do).

If the paint chip has gone all the way down to bare metal, you must also remove any traces of oxidation (rust) on the surgace of the metal. You can get a small "scratch pen", which is just a pen with fiberglass fibers in place of where the ink refill would normally go. This will help you "scratch" off any oxidation prior to applying the paint. If it has gone down to bare metal, you should also apply a very small dab of primer before applying the color and then the clear coat.

You can buy a spray can of automotive primer at Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. and then just spray some primer into a clean soda bottle plastic cap. Use the primer that has collected on the inside of the bottle cap and dab it onto the bare metal, if necessary.

Then apply the color into the chip and wait until that has dried a little. 10 minutes is usually enough in good weather conditions.

Now apply the clear in the same manner. Add another coat of clear or more if necessary.

Keep in mind that as the paint dries, it will always "retract" so be sure that for the last coat you let the blob of clear protrude slightly from the surface.

After the paint has had a chance to cure (one week is adequate), you can compound the surface with fine polishing compound to "melt in" the edges.

To get the best results, instead of using the paint brushes supplied with your kit, get an small artist's paint brush at a hobby or art supply store.

The most important aspect of repairing a rock chip is to be sure that you do not delay repaiiring a chip that has gone down to bare metal. Oxidation will start to occur almost immediately. If left unattended long enough the oxidation will start to seep under the surrounding primer coat and will eventually cause paint failure (blisters, etc...) in the immediate surrounding area such that even if you touch it up it will keep rusting under the surface.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

Rather than use compound which could hurt your surrounding clear coat, take a look at this. I tried it and recommend it to anyone.

http://www.autogeek.net/langka-paint-chip-repair-kit.html

Ok....never noticed such huge swings before.

Makes me worried about drivng her hard in corners

On startup mine goes right to over 5 bars, then when warm a little over 2 bars at idle, 3K little over 4 bars. No dips on hard acceleration.

Currently 30K on the car.

Even though I have niot heard of oil starvation problems, there is a repalcement bottom pan with extended baffles available.