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KevinMac
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Posts posted by KevinMac
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LSD: lift the rear of car - gearbox in neutral - turn one rear wheel in the driving direction - the opposite wheel will turn in the same direction.
NON LSD: the opposite wheel will turn in the other direction.
Hence the reason I suggested to look at the stamping on the transaxle. The option list could be a misprint, or if you are not the original owner, the prior owners may have had the transaxles replaced and did not get the LSD. Bad clutch pacs should still allow the opposite wheel to rotate in the same direction, reason being, there is no drag and are spinning freely so worn clutch pacs may not show up spinning the wheel but act up under driving conditions.
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ok...
first... the specifics...
1999 996 C2 with LSD
98000km
B&M Short shift kitg
GMG Sport Clutch Kit (GMG Lightwwight flywheel, Sachs Race Engineering Full Faced Disc, Sachs Race Engineering Pressure Plate)
ok.. here is my problem...
i know that these kits are loud... clutch out... lots of chatter... clutch in, quiet as a bug... when in gear and driving.... its sounds like i have a cut gear box...normal right?
now.... here is the question... recently i have been having a little more trouble shifting from 1--2, no grind, just a little harder DOES NOT POP OUT. also i have been having to blip the gas to get into 1st from neutral... or else it wont go in all the time and actually pop out. and i feel like i really have to press the clutch pedal in to get it in 1 gear... the car is still drivable
i just changed the gear oil.... some metalics and very dark... the oil was previosly changed ~10000km ago...the box got a little quieter, and ~10% smoother....
May I be so bold as how you actually know you have and LSD? Did you check the stamping on the case, the 6th digit should tell you if you have an open diff, or LSD.
second question... when the car is in the air.. i can spin the rear tires freely...when in gear... i can spin one tire and the other goes opposite....is this normal for an LSD or are the plates worn?
i know that a lot... but i thank you in advance...as my baby might have to go to sleep for awhile if i need to get a tranny.....
Rod
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well, hopefully there was no water in the key when u pressed it. if there was, you coudl have shorted the circuits and now need a new key.
coincidentally i washed my volvo key last weekend, i didnt press any buttons, just opened it up and let it air dry. been using my spare key since never got around to putting it back together.
If it is still wet which I doubt, you can soak in alcohol with battery removed, and let it dry for 48 hours opened up. Suspect there is still water in it If it doesn't work get ready to spend some bucks. You can aslo try using a hair dryer on the removed circuit boad to make sure it's completly dried out.
Last time at the Porsche dealership a guy broke his key, it cost somewhere around $350 from the purchase of the key to getting it operational.
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Has anyone tried Pirelli PZero Rosso? Cost a bit more than bridgestone's or michelin's but the treadwear looks descend.
Never had P zero's but then again I never got good wear from any Pirelli I bought. Since stayed away from them. I hate to say this, but my feelings on Michelin is they are over priced for any small gains if any you get.
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Another great alternative is always the BIRD Armrest...<http://www.birdautomotive.com/996.htm>. I didn't say it was cheap, but it looks killer and I've heard great things about it. I intend to put it in soon.
I have the Bird armrest and really like it. I was in Connecticut last Christmas, gave Bird Automotive a call and met Sam Bird. Because of the price, I wanted to see it before I bought it. It is made very well, fits and looks like it was an original installation. It adds a drink holder which works well. Only comment is the drink holder is a little short so don't plan on putting any really tall cups in it. My interior is black so it was an easy match but even the texture of the leather is the same as the interior.
He also makes a bicycle rack for the back of the vehicle that attaches underneath.
Dave T
99 Carerra
Doesn't the Bird arm rest still use some of the components of the base armrest, if so he still needs to use the hinge rivet kit.
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Yes, fan 1 is the front left and fan 2 is front right.
and yes, the ballast can be changed by itself.
OK this is what I have so far. Fuse still burning.
1. Fan spins freely no rubbing #1 fan
2. Changed with another ballast (wrecking yard) No Change still hot and fan seems to spin on high speed or faster then the #2 fan (passenger side).
3. Removed both fan #1 relays #19,20 No fans on and fuse still gets hot.
4. Just turn the ac switch on and now it gets hot (with relays removed).
Now it seems the fans are not the problem
As a note though the fan #1 fans comes on to a high speed where as the fan #2 stays on low with ac switch on- hope this does not confuse issue furthor.
I suspect you have corrosion somewhere. It could be at the junction point where the wires come int the fuse box. Corrosion builds a heater circuit, and causes more current to flow. I have seen this on other cars.
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A question for the wheel and tire gurus: I'm considering a set of 19" wheels (Porsche Carrera Classics) off of a widebody 997 with Pilot Sports (Front: 235/35/19, Rear: 305/30/19). Will these fit on a 2002 996 C4S?
Porsche seems to not endorse 19's on the 996. Based on the article in EuropeanCar , the 996 was designed around the recommended tire size of 17 and 18.
Read this:
http://www.europeancarweb.com/tech/0505ec_...ires/index.html
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Well purchased the Bridgestones Potenza 960A's Pole Position had them mounted on the rear last weekend. Have not had the car out enough to provide feed back yet. Will do as time goes on. They replaced the Conti contact 2 ( 265/35-18).
The tires were $212per tire plus tax( since have gone up), had them mounted and road forced balanced for an additonal $40.
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A higher viscosity oil like 15w-50 will give you a short hydraulic valve lash noise on statup. It seems that using the Porsche recommended oils 5w-40 seems to fix this.
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Before going to 19's you may want to read this. Porsche designs around the tire size they recommend!
http://www.europeancarweb.com/tech/0505ec_...ires/index.html
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Are you the first owner?
Could be a tracking device...like LoJack...for theft recovery.
No, I'm the third owner. I contacted the previous one, but I don't know nothing about that; I'm not able to contact the first owner.
Lojack maybe
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Yes, but the part number should end in D05 which is the color code - granite grey
If you order a new center console, you will need the console compartment hinge fix kit. The old center consoles had the hinge part as molded into the center console. The new ones do not and require the metal hinge fix kit to be installed. The kit contains a metal hinge that gets riveted to the plastic console, rivets, and rivet backing plates.
http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant..._Code=POTE996IN
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my car is 2001 c4 manual .
i want to change Gear oil and manual transmission fluid ( some like gearbox oil ???)
this two can buy from porsche ?
how many i need put in the car - Gear and Manual transmission fluid ???
You transaxle calls for a little bit over 3 qts. You need 90 GL5 gear oil. If you do not have a limited slip transaxle you may want to opt for a gear oil that does not have friction modifier in it. Redline makes a 90 NS GL5 with no friction modifier. Mobil 1 works well but has a fricition modifier. LS tranaxles need fricition modifier for their clutch packs to work without grabbing. When used in a transmission, it could give a notchy feeling since the synchros are not bringing the gear up to speed fast enough.
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Are the 7mm wheel spacers the same for the 2000 996 and 2000 Boxster? I assume the extended lug bolts are the same correct?
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How come no one talks about Continental Sport Contact 2's, which Porsche uses? Does anyone like or dislike them??
I like the Conti's, but the wear out pretty darn fast and they get pretty noisy as they wear.
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I've had the car a short time. The seller had the oil changed 'a few months ago.' The oil quantity gauge was two notches down when I got it and it hasn't moved.
Is there any small oil puddle or drops on the floor under the car after being parked overnight?
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The are two small (cheap) self-tapping nuts on the back side.
The nuts need a small metric socket ( don't recall the size), and unscrew. access through the two small holes you referred to. The nuts on the current crest cannot be reused, you need to get two new ones. The hardest part is getting the gasket around the new crest before tightening down the nuts. Do not over tighten they will strip.
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Found oil in the coolant. Driving very slowly. Hope my extended warranty covers this...
What are the chances of getting a list of everyone who had to replace the engine on these 1999-2000 996's? Should be a big club with annual meetings or something. Maybe we could invite the chief Porsche engineer to give a presenation on how this is not Porsche's problem. I'm guessing they won't want to, but if they don't, we might get enough club members together with some sympathetic dealers, mechanics, and owners who have enough clout to maybe get Porsche to at least admit there is a problem.
Do you think they have a few hundred engines in this country they can ship out when the oil appears in the coolant? Anyhoo... I'll keep reading and see what happens when the engine blows. I really don't have a choice, do I?
I have oil in the coolant as well. Just discovered by the Porsche Dealer - 70,000 on a 2000 C4 Tip. So, my question is....how many miles do you get before the engine flys apart in a million pieces....or just overheats due to radiator blockage????
Oil in the coolant could just be the oil cooler gone bad.
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Even though the clutch may still have some life in it , since the transaxle is off and everything past the flywheel needs to come off to get at the RMS, might as well do it. The labor should be absorbed by th RMS change.
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You mean like this?
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=35217
Search is your friend.........
Nice thanks much!
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well i put in the royal purple, and the tranny is acting better, took a couple of days for it to smooth out....
on a side note i went to porsche initially to but the fluid and they said they used mobile 1 syntetic 75-90, which is not on the "recomended" Mobil Mobilube PTX . they said they dont sell porsche manual transmission fluid which i thought was funny. no one carried the 2 recomended ones that are in the DIY list, however the royal purple seems to be working fine.....
You may want to buy a 90 weight gear oil that does not have the limited slip properties in it, LS friction modifiers act as a lubricant and can hamper synchro's to some extent. Currently Mobil 1 , Lucas, Ryal Purple and a like have LS friction modifiers already in it. The only one I have found is Redline 90 NS that does not. Of course if you have a LS differential then you have to use friction modifiers and have no choice.
the only oil the stores carried was the royal purple, and mobile 1 in terms of synthetic gear oil. i went to various places, i may look around for reline, maybe Dallas mustang carries it
You can buy it on the internet
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Contemplating installing a third radiator available for mounting in the middle front which comes complete with all hoses and ducting and mounting hardware. Has anyone installed one of these and how difficult was it?
http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...996WaterCooling
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The last generation ( 987 - 997 and Cayenne ) standard spark plugs are OK for 90.000 Km or 4 years, please give me a good reason to change with iridium ones.
Compared to platinum plugs maybe a little more longevity, but nothing to rave about. Iridium or platinum plugs used in cars for 100K mile plug changes. Since the 996 and 997 use Platinum, I doubt you wil see any adavantages at all!
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Shell down here has ethanol! Up to 10%!
Disable a/c temperature control on startup
in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
Posted
Don't use Auto, use it in manual mode and do as Loren has stated.