KevinMac

Hi,

I have a problem with the "Taco" wing on my 99 996 C2. I have always had a loud banging noise from the rear of the car when going over speed bumps (which is around every 100yds where I live in the UK). This was traced to the deck lid bouncing. I have adjusted the deck lid stops so the lid only just shuts, but the lid still moves at the back (closest to window) when pushed down, causing the noise. I noticed yesterday that the spoiler now has a "hairline" crack in it. One thing I also noticed were the two tapped holes (6mm) on the underside of the rear deck lid that look like they would accommodate another two deck lid stops. My questions are:

1: Should there be four of these rubber adjustment stops or just the front two in a fixed wing deck lid and how do you set them up?

2: What can be used to repair the composite spoiler? It may be the paint cracked, but as the photo shows (Hopefully), the crack location is at the stress point of the spoiler.

PS: Apologies for using your 996 photo Loren, I hope you don't mind (Cheques in the post).

This happens to boats all the time. Stress points develop hairline spider cracks . It's usuually just superficial, especially if in the stress point the fiberglass material is present. What you will have to do is usually fill it with resin, sand, then wet sand it then paint. If this is a common stress point it will probably come back again, unless the lid adjustment relieves some of the stress.

Here is a sample from the 996 manuals to adjust ..

Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever

– Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever

top of page

Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever

— Checking the free play of the handbrake lever.

The parking brake has asbestos-free brake linings.

Note

The handbrake with asbestos-free brake linings must never be adjusted in such a way that the lining must grind down during operation!

The handbrake must be adjusted if the handbrake lever can be pulled up by more than 4 teeth with medium force application (without a braking effect)!

Adjusting the parking brake

1. Remove the rear wheels.

2. Undo the parking brake lever and push back the disc brake pads of the rear axle until the brake disc can rotate freely.

Note

To make the turnbuckle accessible, open the cover of the tray behind the parking brake lever and remove the rubber inlay and also the insert.

3. Undo the adjustment nuts -arrow- on the turnbuckle until the cables are without pretension.

4. With a screwdriver -Figure- , turn the adjustment device through a wheel bolt threaded hole so that the brake disc can no longer be moved.

5. Turn back the adjustment fixture through 5 notches again (release approx. 3 notches until the brake disc can be moved freely, then release another 2 notches).

6. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.

7. Pull up the parking brake lever by 2 teeth and adjust the adjustment nut of the turnbuckle until both wheels can be turned manually with difficulty.

8. Release the parking brake lever and check whether both wheels can be turned freely.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

996110, 996111, 996210, 996211, 996310, 996311, 996410, 996411, 996430, 996431, 996610, 996611

Heck when I changed mine out, I did niot remove the rear wheels. I simply made note on which notch the brake held , then removed the locking nuts on the back of the caming surface where the cables attached, then proceeded to remove the center console because now you can raise the lever all the way up, makes it easier to remove the console without scathing. One ting I did do is wrap painters tape aoung the base of the new handbrak lever. This way when reinstalling the console you do not scratch it. Make sure you pop off the cover on the left side of the console next to the driver seat. Once the console was off, it was a matter of removing the hold down bolts and replace the lever assembly.

Put the console back with the lever all the way up. then release the lever and reconnect the cablecam with the cables attached.

Finish up the console install, emove the tape, then adjust the locking nuts on the back of the cable cam to match where it was prior to the change out!

It's not hard at all, just a little time consuming. After the adjustment is made put the box liner back.

I agree..that's not mold. It's definitly this...The musty smell is because the AC is ineffective due to the large holes in the flap door. Loren was correct...again! Good fix at this link. http://www.carboncow.com/pages/porsche/heater_door.htm

Yup foam that has broken down! I hate the stuff! You need to get that stuff out of there. It gets real sticky and will bind the air system divertor doors. You then may be complaining of certain vents or AC and/or heat not working correctly!.

Hiya:

My car (2003 C2 Cabriolet - 33k) has had a recurring oil leak for the past four years. Each time the dealer (it's under CPO until December of this year) opted to replace the cam seals and each time it comes back. My guess is that they are trying to save a buck and hoping that this issue will slide until the car is out of CPO...a tactic I might expect from a disreputable independent dealer, but Porsche proper? Very disappointing.

Anyway, back again for the 5th time. I requested an appointment and held out the carrot of replacing the clutch assy while they are at it...mabe this will get the job done properly and they can make a few bucks as well.

By the way...my leak seems to be coming from the right side of the engine as you look at the rear of the car...it's a low volume leak (a few drops between drives) but noticeable. I also get a very annoying burning smell from the oil on the exhaust manifold I suppose...pretty bad after a spirited drive. I am a pretty experienced wrench, but don't have any Porsche experience yet so I haven't done much poking around on my own. Did you have have the same symptoms?

Matt

I may be wrong but I thought that after a few attempts by a dealer on fixing the IMS or RMS that Porsche would replace the engine? Is this true? You may want to push thisa little further.

You say very slowly, need a better description. It can take more than 3 miles travel to get the engine up to temp! If the thermo was stuck open the engine would probably run on the cool side all the time. Try and tell us what yoyu mean by slowy?

Was the fuel filter changed recently, also a fuel injector can cause your issue. Try some techron or similar to see if it helps!

My only point was he was complaining of some gear roughness, after changing over to Mobil1 75W-90. I am not saying that the Mobil 1 is not compatible with Porsche trans axles. Just that Redline NS or any other non LS lube being that it has no LS friction modifiers that it could possibly make the gearbox smoother due to the abscence of the friction modifiers. No one is debating if it is compatible, just that that a gearbox that has some mileage on it my do better if not LS to have no friction modifiers.

Mobil 1 GL5 75w-90 LS is for both limited slip and non limited slip. That said, though, I'd still use the (and will use when I do it) http://www.lufteknic.com/Merchant2/merchan...Code=lubricants

Luckily, they are, literally, almost in my backyard, so it's easy for me to get!

Limited slip additives are a friction modifier that allows limited slip clutch pacs to slip. If there is no friction modifier in the LS axle they grab and cause either clunking when making tuns, or clutch packs locking up with grabbing on turns.

Syncros require no slippage when gear changing and are designed to line up the input to driven gear. Friction modifier can cause this to slip and cause a shift feel that seems to grind slightly or seems to have more resistance. So with that said M1 has a friction modifier already in it causing the feel as complained about.

Per Mobil1:

"Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid. "

Well I guess if you believe all the Amsoil marketing hype, there is no debate. But oils today are so good, if replaced at the recommended change intervals there is no issue!

Porsche has a list of oils they certify for use in these cars. I suggest you stay with that list! Right now 0w-40 Mobil 1 obtianable at Walmart is a porsche certified oil along with BMW europeon longlife certification. Why use anything else?

i have a 996tt and was looking for opinions on replacing my spark plugs with ahigh performance one since my car is tuned 490hp stage 1 ecu any suggestions thanks

Only one concern the pict to the far right the new plug seems to have an out of alignment ground electrode. The good news is the old plugs seem to have the correct burn color, and they do not seem to tbe that worn at all!

I have owned my 99 for about 6 months and thought some of the potential buyers would be interested in the issues encountered.

Started with 81k and now have 85k miles. I knew it would be a project and wanted to do as much work as possible myself.

Bought for 25k from Phoenix dealer and had it shipped to me in So Cal. Add another 2k for Cali tax.

CEL went on immediately with a P0605 error and it cost $800 for an ECU replacement. If you search P0605 I have a long post describing this.

Dealer refunded $500 (lucky my wife is a lawyer)

Replaced drivers side inner fender myself $180 from Sunset, cleaned radiators.

Bought extra key from Sunset $120 dealer programming $80 in woodland hills.

Changed trans fluid $30 oil and filter $70 all Mobile 1

Changed pre cat oxygen sensors $200 from Pelican (tried generic o2 sensors and returned, should use oem part for this)

Purchased a bosche starter for $200 because it was turning slow when hot but have not installed yet.

The engine runs good but uses oil with Mobile 1 10-30. I have added some 10-40 and Lucas additive and it has improved.

No leaks and the cooling system and electrical is ok. The AM radio is bad and FM is not much better.

The trans was very hard to shift when cold and has improved since the fluid change. 2nd gear syncro is not 100 percent

I was getting a CEL for a air leak in the emissions but it has not returned since I replaced the 02 sensors.

Next will probably replace tires and get alignment. I am fairly pleased so far with these issues and I know it could have been worse.

This site has also been great.

Think only 0w- 40 Mobil 1 is the Porsche recommended oil. Some folks use the 15W-50, but the longlife BMW and Porsche certification is on the 0w-40. The 15W- 50 should not be used in cold climates per other discussion boards.

Mobil1 GL5 has limited slip properties. If you do not have limited slip, you may want to try RedLine 75w-90 NS. This may help your syncros work better and take care of your gear complaints.

Make sure you take your car to an alignment shop that knows these cars!

xx

Actually everything I have seen is the 2000 and 2001, were pretty good. Then issues came up in 2002 and a few years beyond!

Don't let anyone fool you, putting in a 3.6 or a 3.8 into a 1999 to 2001 car is not as easy as it sounds. There is wiring and ECU issues to contend with. Do a search on this site and you will see the issues!

That's unusual here in S Fla Shell has 10% ethanol, and since they supply Hess the same goes for them. I have yet to use any ethanol mixed product as of yet. I think here in the near future it will be the norm!

As far as multiple vendors go. I use whatever is the cheapest with no ethanol, and has the octane required. There is no difference between vendors when it comes to octane, since by law it has to meet the requirements as posted.

This may interest you, you just might be paying for a brand loyaly!

http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/Business/story?i...8563&page=1

Guess the prior owner put in litronic headlights and did not install the control unit. There are two 4 wire connectors that go from the control unit to the back of each headlight.

When the early 996 get the non factory upgrade, wiring is required to a contral unit so when switching to high beam the beam actually raises. No control unit you get the litronic use, but your high beams are not in sync with the running beam.

So you are unhappy making 105K at 25 years of age. Boy think there is a fundamental problem here. First off if you really do make $105k per year this car is affordable. But it seems from the tone of your post you have other financial issues or you would not have posted what you did!

I just don't get it!

Sounds to me the other owner may have changed the bulb temps to a higher degre.

Well if softer is what you want, it's not an upgrade but a downgrade. Porsche tunes the suspension for handling, stability etc. So if you want a softer ride, lt ooks like another car is in order. A sports car is exactly that!

All 3.4 liter cars are 300 HP (non X51 cars from the factory). 3.6 liter cars are 320 HP (non X51 cars from the factory).

Add roughly plus 20 HP for any X51 car.

Thought the 1999 3.4 were 296 HP and the 2000 and 2001 were 300HP excluding X51???

1999 Performance

Acceleration (0-60 mph): 4.8 sec. Braking Distance (60-0 mph): 122 ft.

Road Holding Index: .92 g Base Number of Cylinders: 6

Base Engine Size: 3.4 liters Base Engine Type: Horizontally Opposed

Horsepower: 296 hp Max Horsepower: 6800 rpm

Torque: 258 ft-lbs. Max Torque: 4600 rpm

Drive Type: RWD Turning Circle: 34.8 ft.

Specifications:

Model Year: 2000

Make: Porsche

Model: 911

Style: Carrera 4 Coupe

Base Price: $71,020

Price as Tested: $75,570

Drive Type: All-wheel drive

Transmission Type: 6-speed manual

Displacement (liters): 3.4

Engine Type: 6 cylinder fuel injection

Valve Train: 4 valves per cylinder

Horsepower (hp @ rpm): 300@6,800

Torque (lb-feet @ rpm): 258

I would trust Shell gas 100%.

Shell premium in Fla is 93 octane not 93. Since Shell supplies Hess too, Hess has moved to the 10% ethanol.

American Lemans series 12 hr Sebring race, Porsche RS Spyder under the Roger Penske team won the 12hrs of Sebring without a glitch. Not only did they win their class LMP2 ,but out did the LMP1 class with Audi turbo diesel, and Peaugot turbo diesel and finshed 1st overall! Great race great weather.

GT2 class had Porsche running all day even after a few run ins with the wall!

Impressive! I didnt think anything could ever beat those audi turbo diesels.

Audi had some mechanical problems which put them back, the Peugot diesel actually was the fastest on the track, but retired with hydraulic problems.

Hi -

I just bought a 2001 911 carrera cabriolet.

Trying to figure out how to get the CDs to play in the "lower" CD trays below the radio unit?

I can press the "S" button to switch between FM and CD, yet there is no multi disc player option.

I Can play a CD from the main unit by flipping down the faceplate, yet when I put a CD in the trays below, the "red light" goes on in the tray indicating the CD is "there", but how in the world do I get to it and PLAY it?

Help?

Sorry - New to the world of porsches...

I'm sorry to have to report that those trays are indeed only for storage and as such are not connected to any electrical device in the car.

As per the other post they are for CD storage, the multi disc unit goes in the trunk next to the amp.

American Lemans series 12 hr Sebring race, Porsche RS Spyder under the Roger Penske team won the 12hrs of Sebring without a glitch. Not only did they win their class LMP2 ,but out did the LMP1 class with Audi turbo diesel, and Peaugot turbo diesel and finshed 1st overall! Great race great weather.

GT2 class had Porsche running all day even after a few run ins with the wall!

I have had some success with a clay bar, then a good coat of wax.