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ivanuf

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Everything posted by ivanuf

  1. ivanuf
    based on the pic you only need the wire harnes and the locking hook (other than fan and hinges) I don't get it. How does it raises and lowers? I got a wire harness for the fan. Do I need a different one?
  2. ivanuf
    I got a 99 carrera with the GT3 body kit and wing. I got the car like this and now I got an OEM Deck lid ebay and as you can see fron the attached picture is missing some stuff. I need to re-use from my GT3 deck the fan, hinges. My question is what I am missing? Wire harness, motor for spoiler? Visit My Website
  3. ivanuf
    I am doing the exact same thing. But my stock deck is not here yet. Anyway in preparation for the install, where is the wire loop from the car located? My GT3 wing only has the fan plug from the engine. Where should the other cables located? I bought my 99 C2 w/ aerokit has never used the stock deck. I do not know if I need to buy a wire loop or if it is hidden somewere in the engine bay. If you have any pictures it will really help.
  4. ivanuf
    I changed the regulator myself. It starts to make squeak noises and then it gets really loud! If you can follow the instructions on installing and removing interior door panels on the forum you can change the regulator. It took me about 1 hour on a sunday morning.
  5. ivanuf
    I had the same feeling when I bought my 996. Do a seach for "My EVO handles better than my 996".
  6. ivanuf
    I finally replaced the (2) upper control arms and the lower control arm on the rear of the car. I am glad to report that all rattle noises under breaking are gone. Upon close inspection the lower control arm ( the longerons with the uni ball fixation ) were the cause. On the end of the ball fixation the cover rubber looked in excelent condition but inside they were damage. The metal sleeve on the center was moving to the point of making metal-to-metal contact with the arm. The only way to diagnose this is to remove the arm and pull the interior metal sleve, it should not move.
  7. ivanuf
    I am still waiting for the control arms, I will post results after the instalation.
  8. ivanuf
    I will order the (2) upper control arms and the lower control arm. I will follow up after the installation and post the results.
  9. ivanuf
    What control arm(s) should I replace first. Upper (2) or lower?? The car has 75,000 miles and the roads here are rough.
  10. ivanuf
    I am obsessive with my car noises. I have searched and read all Forum posts on noises and I have followed all TSBs on noises. And my 1999 C2 is almost as silent as it can be. The last noise (for now) that I can't put my finger on is a tricky one and just wondering if someone else has encountered it. I narrowed it down to this: It comes from the back of the car. It sounds like a "clunk" or loose part from (the bottom of the car not the roof) but it only happens when I hit irregularities or potholes on the roadway under breaking. If I pass over the same spot w/o braking I do not get the noise. It is pretty loud and sounds like something is loose. Under acceleration it disappears. When the weight of the engine is lifted (under breaking) and I hit potholes it makes the noise. Parts I have changed of the rear suspension: ( I have a 4 post and a 2 post lift on the shop) (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Shocks and top mounts I torque all suspension bolts under car (including sway bar supports) (2)Engine mounts I got a steel bar and verified upper and lower control arms they have no play. I was going to order the control arms, but to me they are not the problem. They have little play and the rubber looks in good condition from visual inspection.
  11. ivanuf
    For those in other states The Collection is a high end multi-brand dealer (Ferrari, Aston Martin, Ect.) I got the feeling everytime I visited the dealer when I was in Miami that my old 996 was for them like a Camry in a sea of overpriced italian cars.
  12. ivanuf
    Ok, thanks.
  13. ivanuf
    Any advise on how to change the engine mounts. I have done all suspension and brake work myself and have a 2-post lift. I just looking for some advise from someone before I start unbolting stuff w/o knowing. Thanks Ivan
  14. ivanuf
    I will like to remove the engine of my 99 996 w/ trip. Is this a big deal, or is it simple enough. I have a 2-post lift and mechanics on my tire center, they have no Porsche experience. I know that on the shops they do it everyday, just looking for guidelines. The engine is in good condition, I will like to do some maintenance and inspect all hoses and all that I can not see. I have taken every interior panel, doors, dash, hood covers, moldings, ect. I guess the engine will be the final frontier to fully conquer my 996. If it dies one day I know I only need to get a new engine and install it myself.
  15. ivanuf
    I searched for a while and the only reasonable option I found was the rear rack that mount to the licence plate. I saw it on performance a while back, other than that the roof rack looks really bad and expensive.
  16. ivanuf
    Also do a internal A/C cleaning is a service available in any locations that uses Wynns maintenance services like quick lubes. Is a two step process and it works really good. I do it on my car every 4-6 months. In between services I spray the cabin filter with Ozium odor eliminator once a week. My car always smells clean, I do not like fragances. Just clean odor from the A/C.
  17. ivanuf
    I found out what the problem was. For some reason the alarm system disengages the passager door locking only. I had to push on the door to keep it close and engage the alarm. Your hear a click sound and it closes again.
  18. ivanuf
    I have taken the panel and handle out several times on my car before. Right now is on the paint shop and I did the removal of the door handles, weather strip, mirrors, emblems, ect. Now this is the problem the passenger side bounces off everytime I close the door. It fails to stay close everytime you throw the door. Any clues on how to fix. I tried to engage the lock mechanism but it just won't click.
  19. ivanuf
    I purchased my 99 C2 two years ago and this is what I learned after the purchase: 1) Check for any leaks (oil dripping) mine was leaking and I had to replace the rear main seal (RMS) it cost about 800.00 to replace, but if the problem is not the seal the fix is a new engine. This scared the hell out of me. Just make sure is not leaking and take it to the shop that did the maintenance up to date and verify any history of leaks or seals replaced during warranty. This will be your main concern. Is not official but tiptronic cars has a less incidence of RAMS failures. 2) The rest os the parts are the same as any other performance car. Mine had 78ka and changed the shocks and shock mounts, alignment, spark plugs, brake pads, ecad. Every so often I do some preventive maintenance and is not a big deal. Once you can clear that the RMS is ok and your are not buying a car that needs a new engine, the rest is irrelevant in comparison.
  20. ivanuf
    My CEL was for the P1123 code and was diagnosed with the following parts needing replacement: 996-606-160-01 Idle-Speed Sensor 996-606-123-00 Mass Air Flow Sensor 000-043-205-01 (2) Vacuum Hose.
  21. ivanuf
    What is the average time frame that the RMS usually needs replacing if installed correctly and the car is not tracked.
  22. ivanuf
    I took my car to the dealer for a CEL but when the mechanic inspected the vehicle he also diagnosed the following items causing oil leaks: Part # 996-107-023-54 Oil Separator (1) Part # 996-105-223-52 Vario Cam Seals (2) Part # 999-113-490-41 Shaft Seal (1). The last item will be replaced under warranty since it was changed less than a year ago. Is this seal the same as a RMS failure. The charge me 21.00 usd for the seal and 850.00 usd for the labor to change it, but they warranty the parts and labor for 24months. What is this seal and is it common to last less than a year or 3,000 miles since last replaced. My car is a 1999 CA2 with 73,000 miles. Triptronic. By the way the CEL was for the P1123 code and was diagnosed with the following parts needing replacement: 996-606-160-01 Idle-Speed Sensor 996-606-123-00 Mass Air Flow Sensor 000-043-205-01 (2) Vacuum Hose.
  23. ivanuf
    I had the same codes on my 996 for a while. I changed the air filter, use an electrical contact clearer for the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body. But the code kept coming up. The dealer diagnosis was. Mass Air Flow part#996-606-123-00 also (2) vacuum hoses p# 000-0043-205-01 and idle-speed p#996-606-160-01. Will see it they were right. Will keep you posted.
  24. ivanuf
    Ok, I measured each new sensor and got a 0.1 ohm reading. So i guess the new cables are ok. Now for the weird part I measured ohms inside the receptacle where the cable plugs in and got 0.3 ohms on the back wheels and 348.0 on both the front wheel sensor plugs. I traced the cables on the front and they go in a bundle with other wires inside the cabin under the dashboard. We move the cables around to identify them but they are together with many more. Is there a relay or module that can be damage, where do I go from here?
  25. ivanuf
    I can get an ohm tester but what exactly do I measure if all four cables are new. Or of what do I take the measurement form the sensor inside the pad or inside the plug area?I am not clear how to test resistance.
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