juniinc

Any time! then again it's just my opinion, but seriously if U want something sound clear & efficient, u should cosider replacing it with an after market amp like HIFONICS, PHEONIX GOLD( mono block , mosfet power , built in circuitry , -00.04 THD distortion - the lowest in the industry) U mentioned replacing your 4CH with a 6 CH. This is what I'm using HIFONICS TXI440(mentioned in new sound sys upgrade topic) - 55W x 4(4OHM) 110W X 4(2OHM) RMS though if U were to rate this Like how Haes guys do, who knows 500W x 4? This is going to push my single POLK 8"DVC in 2OHM then 2-4" dash(CLIF DESIGN),2-5-1/4"mids door,2 tweets rear pocket(CLIF DESIGN), 2-3,1/2"(INFINITY) rear - all running in series(maybe stabled in 1 OHM?) Info provided... HAES 6X40W Verstarker 996 Coupe M490 996.645.311.00 harmen 49134 70192/01 Serial - Nr which is the serial number date: W949 made in sweden

Thanks , yup it is pretty radical & yes work like this is for very high-end cars(Unique Whips!). She well deserves it. mounting bracket is pretty good idea! As usual you got some concerns Bristol! LOL . Don't worry I've been doing this for long time,,,Uhm how I'm going to mount it,that will be the easiest thing for this project. Since it was molded around the center console and btw the seats, it is pretty much stable. All u need is some high strength velcro. or remove the carpet then penetrate a bolt in reverse way(like how spare tire is mounted). There are many more options but fabricating a bracket would be out of my option. I usually use a MDF ring but not lately. what u saw on my pix is a new generation of speaker ring?(hardened+we will add a inner speaker ring later), love the rounded edge for my speaker pod. Yes I got the drivers, since I'm producing these in mass quantity Polk audio DB,Rockford.Kicker competition.JL they r all going to be used - 14" x 7" x 7" = 686" / 1728 = 0.39 CF(perfect for seal tight air volume).

uhm old school HAES. I don't think there is any fiber optics for that one. I got like 5 of em floating around my shop(very crappy)). Info provided... HAES 6X40W Verstarker 996 Coupe M490 996.645.311.00 harmen 49134 70192/01 Serial - Nr which is the serial number date: W949 made in sweden

Congrats. No K & N cone fiter is aqvailable, u will have to go with EVO. Here is a pic of 2 seperate DIN I fitted- DVD, 7.2" touch screen. Yes u can relocate AC control all the way down to where my DVD is. Merry christmas!

to be continued~

I've seen a few topics in here related to 986's sound system. So I'd like to contribute my latest work and get this topic going. I know this has been discussed many times, but I thought this Install was a little different. For your car stereo system to perform better and be efficient, you need an active crossover, also referred to as an electronic crossover. Oh what a mess it will be when your 2 way speakers and mid-range speakers duplicate many of the same frequencies! How about when your mid-range speaker attempts to put out high notes that your tweeters are supposed to handle. What u want is you're sitting in a car outfitted with an audio system where everything is perfectly synced and tuned correctly. No distortion at low bass, no fuzz at high trebles. Bass should be kicking hard,mids & tweeters should be clear & crisp. In order to get that tuned stage sound , You will need sub+mid+tweet+amp+c-over. Imagine not having a sub-woofer for your 5.1 home theater. I guess that will be the closest comparison to not having a sub in your 986 cabin. So 1st step would be building a sub-woofer enclosure. First I thought about building 1 in the passenger foot-well, but it wasn't really inviting for anybody taller than 5'8''+ hate to be that passenger if I ever get into an accident! and behind the seat was out of my question it's already tight as it is. There are many materials you can use to house your sub-woofer. One of the most common is fiberglass. There are many advantages of a fiberglass sub-woofer enclosure when compared to one made of solid wood. Space One of the first advantages of a fiberglass sub-woofer enclosure is space. Wooden enclosures are just built to fit in your trunk. A fiberglass sub-woofer enclosure can be molded to the shape of your vehicle. This will maximize the amount of space you have available in your car. So I better get it started ,,,

optical would be G-connector located right next to A terminal. just 2 prong square plug I think.

Its pretty tricky , U would have to wear a short sleeve t shirt. So your arm can slide in there almost to your elbow. pry the cap between 2 thin plastic fender well cover then dig for it - be ready to get some scratches on your arm.

Porsche Boxster 986 PART 996 631 045 00 / 996 631 046 00

try to spin your locking bar. if they r disengaed from the headlight housing, u will hear a click noise-then u will just have to jerk around it.

DME!

Go pay a visit to a local professional electric supply store(north coast,platt), bu sure to purchase some CRC product( best in the world). I would after all the hassle u had to go thru.

Since most becker amplifier uses a speaker level input(poor quality). U'll have to get a RCA conversion adapter to convert to a pre - amp level. she'll sound so much better,,,

Charge your battery first, before you change it

LOL

Im glad u figured it out now, I told u!

only 1 relay for 97. diagram I provided is for 2000 and up model.

i would check the male side of those 8pins first! switch needs to be engaged. If u r not getting a 12v(+) then u definitely got a bad driver's side relay. I thought they were all in same location?

yes I believe so. And ther is only 1 door contact switch per door. Anyhow thats also a good news since your power is fine once u get the door pins off -meter those bottom 8 pins . I bet u r fine on your male side. So most likely u r gonna have to check the wires by the motor. then definitely ur pin is not making a proper contact. that's it!

I know I knida took a glace at this from the beginning. did u meter those 2 white wires? if they r fine, then we need to move to your door pins. I think U can still meter those door pins the way they r. just get good grounding to ur tester.

2 white wires not supposed to show anything unless your switch is engaged. those would be your switched legs - up+ & down+(goes all the way to door pin #3,4). Try this- press the sw up position then u r supposed to get 12+ one of those 2 white wires u described, and also SW down then U r supposed to get a 12+ on the other White wire. In this case your power is fine. But if u don't ,u need to go back. I'm thinking ur switch is fine. red/blue wires is only supposed to get a 12+ when ur cluster light is on,u might also want to meter this wire too w/ your lights on.

looking at it isn't enough.He actually needs to meter those 2 door pins(#3,4) then problem solved.

make sure your motor is well grounded too . it's supposed to be chase grounded.

Here is a 986 power window wiring diagram- OK, brown wire is #3 contact on the left side switch jumped from the right side #3 contact. GR/BL/RE would be the contact #5 on the left switch jumped from passenger switch and also junctioned with led indicator. I believe U r supposed to have 12V + on a #3 BRN wire. I would check the passenger side #3 & #5 wires first see what they meter at first. If u get a 12+signal on your passenger side #3 or #5 contact then u got a short in that BRN wire in some where. Alos U should check all your 8 contacts on the motor side(door pins), when sw is up U should be able to read 12+ on #4 GR/PK contact when its down 12+ on #3 GR/BRcontact. with this wiring diagram U should be able to trace it no problem! Try to do it section at a time. Play with ur switch, meter all 8 contacts or 2(up,down)on your door pin(w/door open)then closed the door w/ door panel removed, then meter those 2 contacts(up,down) again. Just because I'm SUSPECTING your door pins! I got my $ on it almost 90%. LOL if this pix isn't easy to read, PM me I'll email u . good luck

Click noise is caused by magnetic coil making a contact inside of your relay. That is what you want to hear. If u hear a click noise that means relay is working properly(engaging). But as u said, this doesn't happen with the switch on the driver's side, then u got a problem with your driver's side switch,wiring,possible defective driver's side relay contact? C