juniinc

would get the code read again as Loren suggested.

pretty weird, how your security system is not acting up only when push started,,,

Do u have any other electrical malfuctioning or is your ignition + key wiggly at all?

Maybe too late since the dealer could've smoked your starter now?

This is what I would do,,,

leave the key in RUN position while clutch is depressed, manually jump the starter solenoid prong,,,

Okay, so they are not connecting to the yellow wires then. Hard to see looking under an installed seat with a flashlight!

I would seem that to get things working all I need to do is hook up 12V to the RE-VI wire (Are there additional relays required, or can I run a wire from the panel to the connector and call it good?), and connect the yellow wires to a switch.

Now, about those yellow wires...do you happen to know which colors are for what? If I understand it right, there are heating elements in the back and the seat, and it is two stage (hi-lo). Also, I would think that I can cut the yellow wires at the plug and use my own wires and connector to hook them up to the switch, thus eliminating the need to get the special Porsche wiring harness connectors to make it work.

Progess! Woot!

Mark

Correct & there is no relay required,,,run a 12~10AWG straight from the fuse panel A6 to the connector.

It is a two stage switch system,,,

RE/VI --> CU seat heater (4 YE) --> 2 stage HI & LO switch --> back 2 CU seat heater --> back & seat heating element.

Sure, anything is possible. U can cut the wires & rig your own wiring,,,

OEM switch prong 1-YE/RE , 2-YE/BK , 4-BR , 5-YE/WT.

Or, go with a OEM switch but make up your own wiring.

There is a good thread here, might be able to help U rigging your hardness,,,,,

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/16876-driver-side-window-not-working-tried-almost-every-solution/page__hl__window%20not%20working

The starter is most likely toasted.

Anytime Mark.

looked at the wiring diagram,,,

Yup, those 4 wires on the car side are for your seat belt lock.

Take a closer look, they are gonna be,,,B5-BR/RE , B6-BR , B7-BR/WT ,B8-BR.

BR/RE hookes up your cluster & BR/WT connects to the aigbag control module.

These shouldn't interfear with B1~B4 yellow wires at all.

I still think there are some empty spots,,,

that looks tight!

an extra plug beside the blue seat belt plug U've mentioned, there is empty space on the car side plug where this extra plug mates up to,,,

Isn't there ?

In that case, U would need to run a few wires , but I believe this can be done.

PIC of your car side wiring hardness plugged with the new clip would be nice,,,

That is a good deal!

We usually charge $600,,,

Yup, I believe they are for the heated seat,,,

5 wires on your new prong, what color are they?

Are they 1-Red 1- RE/VI 3-BR ?

Yes, those are indeed the colors. The RE/VI wire coming from the seat does not have a corresponding wire in the car side of the connector. And, although my car did not originally have heated seats, there is a 25A fuse in slot A6 of the panel, which is only supposed to be for heated seats. The smaller diameter wires in the small black square plug in the connector do seem to have mating wires on the car side.

So at this point, I know that I would have to get the seat heater switches for the console. I have not looked in the console yet to see if there is an unused connector in there for the switches, and I guess that will depend on whether Porsche put these wires in the harness regardless of the options chosen, and this I don't know.

Any assistance on getting this working would be greatly appreciated. I'm in Winnipeg so, yeah, heated seats would be a definite bonus.

Mark

Correct, the RE/VI wire comes from 25AMP A6 spot + all 3 brown are your ground,,,since there isn't a wire for that in the car side of the connector, U would need to run that wire.

Since your car wasn't equiped with heated seat, I doubt that there is an unused connector for the switches.

IMO the easiest way to do this would be ordering a OEM switch kit.

Those 5 wires we've been talking about should be on the 6 pin plug side,,,power circuit for your PW seat & heated seat.

take a look at the 8 pin side

Are there B1-YE/RE , B2-YE/BK , B3-YE/WT , B4-BR on both side of the connector ??

these are the wires feeds through the heated seat switch to the heating element.

Yup, I believe they are for the heated seat,,,

5 wires on your new prong, what color are they?

Are they 1-Red 1- RE/VI 3-BR ?

Another newbie question

Just when should the alarm horn beep or go off?

Is there a setting to have the horn beep when locking the car?

Should? the horn go off if the car is locked, with top down and you reach into the car

I tried that and open the glove box and nothing happened.

I love getting a new car and figuring out the quirks.

Thanks

Chuck

not when locking the car,,,

the horn will not go off, when U reach into the car with the top down,,,unless there is a by-pass clip.

most likely your interior light wasn't functioning either,,,?

perhaps that radio leg triggered it.

start by adjusting the hood latch,,,

With a good multi meter, measure it at the starter solenoid prong.

tip or manual? clutch switch?

ignition SW is going bad,,,

I've had the "loose change" sound from behind my left ear for several years now. Do a search and you will find lots of discussion on the topic of top noise. In my case the noise is coincident with road bumps, so think it is a body/top issue, not IMB at least in my case. Have not been able to track down the source on my '01 S Tip, so keep driving and turn the radio up.

If the noise is coincident with road bumps,,,

drive slowly with the top down, U can usually see the door moving/squeaking.

adjust the door latch striker,,,

U're gonna love it,,,

casharp got U in the right direction,,,,

measure at the starter terminal first, if that is OK U can eliminate the starter relay / ECU.

If not, we need to go backward.

I use RP in my 986S

The best IMO.

purchased these Nexen N3000 back in Nov 2007(45000 miles).

Rescently I had all my wheels re-balanced, had the guy check the depth.

Now(61000miles) it is at close to 7/32",,,

I know it is hard to believe, thinking these Nexen's gonna last more than 30,000 miles.

http://www.renntech....__1entry84106

You must be really nice to your tires..

Not really, Phillip.

I usually drive like I just stole her,,,

purchased these Nexen N3000 back in Nov 2007(45000 miles).

Rescently I had all my wheels re-balanced, had the guy check the depth.

Now(61000miles) it is at close to 7/32",,,

I know it is hard to believe, thinking these Nexen's gonna last more than 30,000 miles.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/16783-set-of-wheels-just-came-in/page__p__84106__hl__a%20set%20of%20new%20wheels__fromsearch__1entry84106

often times they get broken.

wiggle the piece & try to feel those tabs,,,keep trying it will come.

costco will be the cheapest.

most likely a blown alarm module (15AMP) fuse under the driver seat,,,

G-05 is yellow,,,

maybe they finally changed it.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/31707-cracked-cylinder-head/page__p__171894__fromsearch__1entry171894

Check the fuse on the back,,,