mikefocke

CDR 220
Serial number 15064560

A 3.2 1998? The '98s were all 2.5s from the factory.

So was the pulley old or was it something mechanical with the idler pulleys that caused it to go bad? Those things are good for mile and miles. We are searching for cause and effect here so you don't shred another one.

The panel JFP is talking about is a vertical panel that will show you the belt and the items that direct it. As he has said, just slide the seats forward, tilt them forward, remove the carpet on the rear firewall behind the seats and lo and behold there will be an obvious easy access panel that lets you see the front of the engine.  Don't have to do a thing with the top to get at the belt or idler pulleys and they can be replaced without the top up.

You may find some info on the top mechanisms here.

Lola, the typical issue has been grounding. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb

My '01 went to the dealer three times before they got it right. The last two were on them.

You looked at the PET pages 280 and following deals with the dash

There must be as many opinions as there are P-car owners. For more than you ever wanted to know, visit https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb

has some thoughts on diagnosis as well.

Spinlocks.

I did the sill protector thing on one of mine but elected to have a ****** aluminum one that wolled over the painted enge. I was buying for protection as I tended to drag my feet over there as I got in. I bought from a small supplier here in the US IIRC.

I did see what seemed to be the ones in your picture at several US dealers when I googled. Click on the more pictures and see if you don't find something.  I presume you posted the same question on boxsa.net which is a UK site.

google "boxster door sill UK"

boxa.net may give you a source for the part that is more local. It is UK based.

suggest you ask on Boxa.net as that forum is UK based. Sources are bound to be too. In the US, Crutchfield,com is a source for parts and instructions.

https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/whenyourbatteryisdead

California Car Covers Noah fabric. Survived 5 years of wind, sun and snow (12") and ice, leaves and chestnuts and me using a push broom to get the snow off and get on the road.  Easy one person on and off. Perfect after 5 years. Didn't scratch the finish of the car. Comes with a bag for storage but I just stuffed it in the frunk once dry.  I had the locking cord to run under the body and secure the cover more but the elastic edge of the cover held up just fine. Cusom made with pouches for mirrors and even different for base and S.

Not cheap ($242) https://www.calcarcover.com/

It is wonderful in this time to hear a concern for data and expert analysis. So often you see a shotgun approach that only starts an expensive spiral.

Good luck. These guys are good.

Are you sure the MAF is the right one for your engine? See the table at the end of this page. There even may be updates from when that was put together but it will give you an idea of the breakpoints for the various parts.

Post your request at

Often written on the sticker on the front of the hood or on the sticker in the maintenance history book.

I neither have any records nor is that shop still in business. I stumbled on them via an online recommendation and when I wandered in and saw what was in their shop my jaw dropped.  I got the alignment and then found a set of take off wheels and rims from a dealer in a very posh neighborhood. Sold my rims and I think my cost after everything for a set of Michelins was less than $400. They lasted so long I eventually replaced them for age reasons, not wear. After they had done my PPI, all the corrective work I wanted done etc the owner of the shop received an inheritance and quit the business.

My specs wouldn't be good for you anyway as my wheels were 17"s and yours IIRC are 19"s. I do remember before the alignment the mechanic road tested the car (he drove a bit more vigorously than I did) and after the alignment the mechanic thoroughly road tested the car and then came back and rechecked the numbers. I don't think this was his first rodeo.

See if instead of finding a generic alignment shop you can find one that sets up Porsches for racing. Meaning you find the head mechanic himself races and there are two cars with all the badging and roll-bars sitting in or just outside the shop.

There is a difference between a generic "within specs" alignment and one done by someone who has intimate knowledge of what effect each adjustment has on handling and wear. I got a wear biased alignment that way that made my tires last and last.

Might look at this post in this thread. I searched "camber".. There may be more but at l3east that gives you some other search terms to use to see if there have been previous threads.

Might this person be from England? And, if so, resources that might help him are:

boxa.net for local advice

and for used parts

https://www.9apart.co.uk/  in the UK

www.douglasvalley.co.uk Lancashire in the UK steve strange on eBay
 

Did you buy the right MAF? 

You don't reset the MAF, you ask the ECU to relearn based on the new parts you installed. A 10 second process, then lots of starts and stops and driving forces the relearn. Then you see if there are any codes that show up or if you need to do more diagnosis. Most codes are not MAF caused, but caused by other things. 

I had a 2001S made in Finland. It had recurring air bag warning lights and I went through the buckle replace, ground replace TSB sequence and it still came back. Then a master mechanic came up with a new technique (the details of which I was never able to find out) and it was fixed finally.

https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb