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I neither have any records nor is that shop still in business. I stumbled on them via an online recommendation and when I wandered in and saw what was in their shop my jaw dropped. I got the alignment and then found a set of take off wheels and rims from a dealer in a very posh neighborhood. Sold my rims and I think my cost after everything for a set of Michelins was less than $400. They lasted so long I eventually replaced them for age reasons, not wear. After they had done my PPI, all the corrective work I wanted done etc the owner of the shop received an inheritance and quit the business. My specs wouldn't be good for you anyway as my wheels were 17"s and yours IIRC are 19"s. I do remember before the alignment the mechanic road tested the car (he drove a bit more vigorously than I did) and after the alignment the mechanic thoroughly road tested the car and then came back and rechecked the numbers. I don't think this was his first rodeo.
See if instead of finding a generic alignment shop you can find one that sets up Porsches for racing. Meaning you find the head mechanic himself races and there are two cars with all the badging and roll-bars sitting in or just outside the shop. There is a difference between a generic "within specs" alignment and one done by someone who has intimate knowledge of what effect each adjustment has on handling and wear. I got a wear biased alignment that way that made my tires last and last.
Might this person be from England? And, if so, resources that might help him are: boxa.net for local advice and for used parts https://www.9apart.co.uk/ in the UK www.douglasvalley.co.uk Lancashire in the UK steve strange on eBay boxsterbits on eBay https://www.jasmine-porschalink.co.uk/ and on eBay email@example.com or https://www.facebook.com/Porsche-Heaven-246901405365392/ in Doncaster https://prestigesalvage.co.uk/ in Leeds
Did you buy the right MAF? You don't reset the MAF, you ask the ECU to relearn based on the new parts you installed. A 10 second process, then lots of starts and stops and driving forces the relearn. Then you see if there are any codes that show up or if you need to do more diagnosis. Most codes are not MAF caused, but caused by other things.
I had a 2001S made in Finland. It had recurring air bag warning lights and I went through the buckle replace, ground replace TSB sequence and it still came back. Then a master mechanic came up with a new technique (the details of which I was never able to find out) and it was fixed finally. https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/airbagwarninglighttsb
Are you sure the dealer does the tops and doesn't outsource the job to the top shop? Where do you live? You can read about how complex a job it is installingarobbinstop - mikefocke2 SITES.GOOGLE.COM even if the brand is different. And replacingthetop-adiy - mikefocke2 SITES.GOOGLE.COM
The code was often written by hand on the sticker by some maintenance tech. Baring that, there is a specific thread here. All others will be ignored. Search lost radio code to find it, post your data and wait a day or so.
Oh heck, I've said it privately and I'll now say it publicly, JFP has done more IMS swaps than any of you combined. He has to pay in reputation and/or dollars if any of his work fails. He has a vested interest in doing it right the first time. He has no financial connection to LN. He chooses parts for their reliability and their ability to not cost him time, money and reputation. Because if it fails, it costs him in all three areas. How do I know all this? Well I've been following this issue for at least 12 years to back before any Flat6/LN product was publicly available. I know how many engines they blew up testing. And since LN was the first vendor to produce a kit and the first to produce instructions and tools for something Porsche said couldn't be done, I got interested and was talking back in the day pretty regularly to Jake, emailing to Jake and Charles. How many bearing materials did they use? How many versions of the races? You buy today you aren't getting their first version of either the bearing, the accessories, the instructions or the tools. You'd be buying well beyond the 10 thousandth one they sold. It is your car, your money, your choice. He will probably delete this but if it saves someone from going off in a wrong direction...
If you are talking a small piece of body work at the top of the rear fender just behind the doors, in early Boxster models they were for attachment of a roof/hood luggage/ski/bike rack. Underneath them are mounting bolt holes I presume. IIRC you just pry them up and off. I remember when I crashed my '99 one of them popped off due to the door being driven back into it. By '01 they were not fitting them.
Since the LN bearings are made uniquely for them with unique races and other parts of the kit also unique ... and since the instructions have gone through many revisions to improve them and since the LN tools are designed to make the process successful .... Not ever saying that other approaches can't be successful.