deckman

I'm going to take the screw out of the stuck piece and take the same piece off of the new damper. I'll put in the new one and then put the screw back in through the plate.

I have a vibration damper stuck inside the piston hole. Any idea how to get it loose? It's the larger upper one.

I fixed it. Underneath the inside door handle is a microswitch that opens and closes when the door does the same. The tiny little plunger for the switch isn't fully integrated and somehow popped out when I was taking the door panel off. Luckily I found it on the ground and put it in a container, not knowing what it was. After some research I knew I was having a problem with a switch and that piece came to mind. I was able to pop it back in place with some tweezers and that took care of everything. All's well that ends well.

Thanks Maurice. I tried to retrain the window and no help. I'll have to take it back apart. Which plug is associated with the lock assembly?

I just replaced the regulator on the driver side. New issue now. The window doesn't close all the way, as in that last 1/4" when the door closes or opens. Also, and I assume associated with this the interior door lights don't turn off and I can't lock the car with the fob. What the heck did I do?

I replaced the alternator and now everything is fine. Now I have a non working alternator in my garage that I wouldn't mind bringing back to life.. How do you determine if the diode pack has failed?

To clarify, the part number JPFLIP listed as what came out of my 2003 996TT is correct. I'm pretty sure that's what shipped with the car when new, and it is a 120 amp unit. When I called a Porsche dealer for a replacement they gave me the part number starting with 997, and that is a 150 amp unit that shipped originally with the 05 996TTS model. Maybe it was a part change they thought all previous 996TT's should have.

To piggyback on this thread, I had a suddenly dead battery last week. I bought a new replacement, installed it and noticed the voltage needle was dropping slowly immediately upon starting the car. Put a volt meter on it and confirmed it was losing juice, down below 12V before I shut it down. After some discussion on another forum I decided it was probably the alternator. I ordered one online and took the old one out this weekend. I took it to an auto parts store to have it tested and it passed. There was another thread that suggested it might be the clutch pulley, which might initially work but fail when the unit heats up, but my battery is losing juice when just started.

What should I check into next?

Who else has done this? Replacing the slave cylinder looks like a tough job. I have the replacement parts but am considering paying some else to do the swap.

So getting to the question at hand, if I lower (unbolt) the bracket the radiator is mounted in, it will somehow slide off? I can't see that.

In the middle of this now. Loren, when you say remove the bracket from the body are you referring to the large metal assembly that is bolted to the car body? To get to the 3rd small hose on top it looks like the whole thing need to come down a bit.

Here is my advice and I have nothing to back it up with so YMMV.

If I was going to by another 996 NA, I would try find one with a few miles on it, say 30K+. I would research that car to see if it has ever had an IMS or RMS leak, and if it so I would pass on to the next one. I think any given 996 is either going to be leak prone or it isn't and one's that had had one leak will likely have another. The leaks MAY be an indicator that a failure is in the engine's future. Like I said I have nothing but a hunch to base this on, but I learned a long time ago to heed my hunches.

Awesome car! Impeccable! Shows like a garage queen :D

Thanks as usual Loren.

Simple question, maybe not such a simple answer?

It will cost you $30 to get a report. Seems pretty simple and cheap.

There are instruction in the DIY section. You might need to become a contributing member to access it. You should do it anyway if you get value from the site.

Get it fixed properly I say. That should be covered by your insurance and not affect your rates.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=fender+removal

Try there. No written instructions, but the pic Loren provided should do the trick.

No - spring rates and damper rates changed due to weight differences (3.4 liter to 3.6 liter).

Thanks Loren.

I have PSS9's and am thinking of returning the car to total stock. Is the suspension from a 99 different than from an 03?

I also experienced this with my '03 c2; more frustrating because each time I took it to the dealer I got the 'couldn't replicate' answer.

The sending unit completely failed several days before the warranty expired......

Same thing here, but my symptoms were nothing like the OP's. I don't know what it is, if anything. Maybe Loren will chime in.

Before your warranty expires, get under your car and look for any oil at the seem where the engine meets the transmission.

who did the work?

I am cross posting on Rennlist since that is where the original DIY was.

I did finally get the unit loose using a wrecking bar wedged against it and using my body weight against it. However....

This is getting comical. I rigged a wrench like the OP did, basically cutting open a box wrench and shortening it so it would fit in the confines. I'd take a pic to show you but....it is now stuck on the bolt attached to the underside of the sending unit. It wiggles up and down and left to right, but I can't pull it off to save my life. I don't really know what to do about it.

I tightened the unit back up and went to get new tires today. I am driving with a wrench in my engine bay. But believe me it isn't going to fall out.

I am trying to do replace the unit right now. It's super tight down in there and the wrench I am working with is cut down to about 5 or 6". the sensor on my car is in on very securely. I can't seem to get enough leverage to loosen it. I'm tempted to take pliers to the top of the unit and try to get it loose but am afraid I'll just crush it. Then it would still be stuck and I wouldn't be able to drive the car.

Anyone replace this and have a similar problem?