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deckman

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About deckman

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    Contributing Member

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    Male

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2003 C2
  1. I'm going to take the screw out of the stuck piece and take the same piece off of the new damper. I'll put in the new one and then put the screw back in through the plate.
  2. I have a vibration damper stuck inside the piston hole. Any idea how to get it loose? It's the larger upper one.
  3. I fixed it. Underneath the inside door handle is a microswitch that opens and closes when the door does the same. The tiny little plunger for the switch isn't fully integrated and somehow popped out when I was taking the door panel off. Luckily I found it on the ground and put it in a container, not knowing what it was. After some research I knew I was having a problem with a switch and that piece came to mind. I was able to pop it back in place with some tweezers and that took care of everything. All's well that ends well.
  4. Thanks Maurice. I tried to retrain the window and no help. I'll have to take it back apart. Which plug is associated with the lock assembly?
  5. I just replaced the regulator on the driver side. New issue now. The window doesn't close all the way, as in that last 1/4" when the door closes or opens. Also, and I assume associated with this the interior door lights don't turn off and I can't lock the car with the fob. What the heck did I do?
  6. I replaced the alternator and now everything is fine. Now I have a non working alternator in my garage that I wouldn't mind bringing back to life.. How do you determine if the diode pack has failed?
  7. To clarify, the part number JPFLIP listed as what came out of my 2003 996TT is correct. I'm pretty sure that's what shipped with the car when new, and it is a 120 amp unit. When I called a Porsche dealer for a replacement they gave me the part number starting with 997, and that is a 150 amp unit that shipped originally with the 05 996TTS model. Maybe it was a part change they thought all previous 996TT's should have.
  8. To piggyback on this thread, I had a suddenly dead battery last week. I bought a new replacement, installed it and noticed the voltage needle was dropping slowly immediately upon starting the car. Put a volt meter on it and confirmed it was losing juice, down below 12V before I shut it down. After some discussion on another forum I decided it was probably the alternator. I ordered one online and took the old one out this weekend. I took it to an auto parts store to have it tested and it passed. There was another thread that suggested it might be the clutch pulley, which might initially work but fail when the unit heats up, but my battery is losing juice when just started. What should I check into next?
  9. Who else has done this? Replacing the slave cylinder looks like a tough job. I have the replacement parts but am considering paying some else to do the swap.
  10. So getting to the question at hand, if I lower (unbolt) the bracket the radiator is mounted in, it will somehow slide off? I can't see that.
  11. In the middle of this now. Loren, when you say remove the bracket from the body are you referring to the large metal assembly that is bolted to the car body? To get to the 3rd small hose on top it looks like the whole thing need to come down a bit.
  12. Here is my advice and I have nothing to back it up with so YMMV. If I was going to by another 996 NA, I would try find one with a few miles on it, say 30K+. I would research that car to see if it has ever had an IMS or RMS leak, and if it so I would pass on to the next one. I think any given 996 is either going to be leak prone or it isn't and one's that had had one leak will likely have another. The leaks MAY be an indicator that a failure is in the engine's future. Like I said I have nothing but a hunch to base this on, but I learned a long time ago to heed my hunches.
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