deckman

Disconnect the battery cables from the posts, cover the posts with a towel, then connect the cables with a jumper cable to create a loop. Leave it like that for about 30 minutes and then reconnect the battery. It worked for me.

I saw another thread where someone suggested looping the battery cables while they are disconnected. I did that and let it sit for a while. Somehow that fixed it.

I had the battery disconnected for a couple days and when I reconnected it the radio just says Porsche on the display, the CD player will make some mechanical noise and then the unit turns off. 10-15 seconds later it goes through this same cycle again. 2003 car. What's up?

I saw a thread a long time ago about someone putting an extra piece of foam in there for added lumbar support. It is accessible. I don't remember which forum it was. It could be here someplace or Renntech of 6speedonline. You will need to search if interested.

The yellow mayo like stuff in the oil filler tube is not uncommon and is nothing to worry about. Check the dipstick, if you have the thick discolored stuff there that's a bad thing. Also check your coolant reservoir for the same stuff. If it's clear you should be alright, if not you're having a bad day.

I have a MKII black leather dash for sale if you need one. PM if interested.

I just had this happen again about four times in quick succession over the course of two miles and about 3-4 minutes, with each warning lasting about five seconds. Of course when I had it at the dealer just before the CPO expired they couldn't find anything wrong. I plugged my OBD II reader in and there are no codes.

Nice. Need an 'action' shot .

+1

Thank you for this. I've sent my friend your diagram with an explanation of what I want. I'm sure he is rolling on the floor laughing right now about the newest thing I've found to throw money away on connected to my car, but he'll help.

One of my best friends runs sales for a commercial building access control system company. He holds all the low voltage electrician licenses in the states where they do biz. I didn't think to ask him before, but he should be able to figure this out for me. About time I got something useful out of him!

I picked up the footwell switch from SunCoast. They said they think the light is LED. Below are the two switches. There are two leads on the original and five on the Porsche switch. Which ones do I use on the new one? Did I mention I'm an electronics idiot?

I think individual cars are either prone or not. Mine has had both RMS and IMS fixed twice and my guess is they will both need fixing again. If I was in the market for a a 996 right now, I would be looking for one that has some miles on it and has never had a leak.

Don't do it below the recommended temp, you will regret it if you do. You must follow the directions precisely.

A couple I can think of are the PSM switch, the seat warmer switch and rear defroster switch. Would any of those work?

I have a laser jammer ready for install. With that comes a kill switch so you don't jam the signal all the way as you drive toward the LEO, sparking undue suspicion. I'm loathe to drill new holes in my car and prefer a factory look. Does anyone know if you could use an OEM switch in one of the locations where there are blank switches in place of the supplied kill switch? In my car there are two blanks below the PSM switch and two more behind the ashtray on the rear center console.

I'm an electronics idiot and will probably pay somone to do this but I want to know what is possible first and also what parts I should have on hand, if any. Thanks!!!

Your symptoms are exactly what mine were. Have your mechanic check the power and connector for the headlight. If they are OK, you likely have a failed assembly and need a new headlight. At least that's what I was told by two separate people who checked mine, one being the dealer. And this is not covered by CPO if you have that.

I had this happen and it turned out the headlight assembly was bad and had to buy an entire new one. I hope that isn't it, because they aren't cheap. I found one used on ebay for about $400.

"The MB might be the 'coolest' "

You're joking, right?

It is a lot of work. And if Loren makes that statement, it's really a lot of work. I have a vinyl interior but have almost all the parts for a complete leather swap out. It's still optional for me though. I think for MagnusB it's not unless he decides to live wiith the problem he has. One advantage of vinyl - the only advantage IMO - is you won't get these wrinkles at some future point.

Once one does this they can do anything on the interior of the car. The biggest concern is post assembly squeaks.

I couldn't find a complete set of instructions. It's pretty involved though. Some people think the windshield needs to be removed as part of the process. I'll be doing it at some point over the winter and will document the hell out of it.

If you remove the pod be sure to put towels around the surrounding surfaces to protect them. Everything scratches easily. But other than the hazard switch it's easy. Surprisingly, the whole car basically snaps together.

Your problem is a piece of cake compared to the one presented by MagnusB.

If or when you fix this would will you document the process you use to remove the dash if you do it yourself? Thanks, and good luck.

Well I ordered one off ebay for $300. Bu the way, when I was getting my bumper painted the guys at the body shop swapped my headlight assembly with one they had and the second one work properly. Once the ebay one arrives I'll try the suggestions you guys have given me. If I can get the original working, I'll just resell the one I bought. Thanks.

John

While my car was in getting the RMS and IMS fixed again, I asked the dealer to look at my drivers side headlight. The problem is the front turn signal does not work and the rear blinks really fast. The result of their diagnosis was: "Removed headlight and swapped bulbs side to side left signal still inop. Checked power and connecter for headlight, headlight getting proper power signal. Headlight assembly has failed internally".

Since PCNA declined to cover the failed assembly under the CPO warrantly and the dealer wanted $2,200 to replace it, I still have a bad headlight assembly in my car. I can find one on ebay for not too much, but it seems kind of rediculous to have to pitch the whole unit. Aren't any of the electronics repairable or fixable?

Now of course I may be wrong about this, and if I am I'll skulk away quietly, but arent laser jammers illegal in just about all states? Not that something like that would stop me, but...

I just checked and I'm wrong. Skulking quietly now.