benspeeder

A sweet story. I shop for about a year for a 1997-99 Boxster, which has recently been classed in SCCA ITR - I race there regularly in a GT 1 Super Production stock car. I find a sweet looking Boxster in Natick MA - Silver with a hardtop installed, 72K miles clocked, a hole in the front valance and a nice nick on the right rear quarter wheel well and told by sales the rear plastic convertible window is shot. Drive the race car hauler up to Natick MA and after putting the car on the lift at Honda of Natick, the dealer selling the car, I buy it. I asked the salesman, "too good to be true, car is mint, spotless underneath, stamped book - what's the catch? Car has the two blemishes and wouldn't sell in a wealthy community, we dug it out of a snowbank to sell it." I pay a great price and enjoy the heck out of it for 3 months. During the three months I clean this car up and fix the blemishes. I book some DE dates to warm up for the upcoming season with SCCA GT1 and enter into a PITA brake and rotor job. Another recent thread. Anyway, finish the brake upgrade, carefully test the brakes the night before and am driving the car to work the next day. On my way to work I am forced into a spin by several crossing deer and whip around on wet, rainsoaked pavement. Go into the woods backwards and after hitting an oak, I do the washing machine spin into a few trees. Car is a Porsche and I walk away with no real injuries. I'm fine other than a bloody nose from my hand - must have been off the wheel - not sure if the dodge was worth it and sorry to the animal rights folks. I've put about 600 miles on this car since I bought it. Today I pick up from my local insurer a settlement check for $19,800 - less than a week after this accident occurred. Outstanding service from my insurer and proof that a Porsche in excellent condition retains its value like a champ. Buy good insurance too. This also proves that if you do your research carefully, you can find a fantastic Porsche at a great price. You must also have the cash on hand to act. After looking for 12 months for the last car I see yesterday on ebay a 1997 Black Boxster with 59k miles for $12.500. I've negotiated a price of $11,500 - the rear window just split (after Porsche of Hunnington installed a new top in 2007). Car has New Dealer clutch also and 60K service. This presented a very fair price reduction from the seller. I have placed a significant deposit on this car: eBay auction ended http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...4.cWAT.m240.lVI So I did make a rare prayer to my Lord that I do deserve this good fortune. And if anybody thinks this car is a POS, post it. Keep your Boxsters in great shape - cheers\ PS - what was the deal with 97 Boxsters not running wheels bigger than 17? I bought a 97 when they first came out and remember that. benspeeder

I feel pretty lucky - wasn't hurt and received $18400 on the settlement. Not bad. I owned the car four months. So what to I spend this on - another Porsche - any suggestions???

Thanks folks

My 99 Boxster was totalled and I'm curious if the hard top will fit later year cars. Any info would be appreciated. Ben

Brake update - I was very pleased that Speedbleeder took care of my calipers. It appears that while the speedbleeders went into the caliper straight they did chew up the threads enough to cause a leak. They tapped the caliper and screwed in a helicoil type thread and then intalled 7mm speedbleeders. Fixed it perfect, had a race engineer who was at the house working on the stock car look at them and also certify suitable for track use. Day after I was happily enjoying my new brakes - rear ended on the highway. Car is now at the body shop. I won't be buying any lottery tickets this month :-( Just heard the car will be totalled - let's see what I get - paid $11500.

Well, quick to criticize and quick to recant. SpeedBleeder offered to repair the calipers - I'll mail them out today - I'm curious if they charge or not, but the customer service was polite and responsive - a rarity today. Chris - encouraging to hear you didn't have any long term problem with your set. I've had great results in the past with them and they are a lifesaver when solo at the track or just doing a system flush at home.

This little project has become a total pain in the ***. Beware of Speed Bleeders in Porsche calipers. I've used these speed bleeders in several Mazda race cars - they leak on the Porsche calipers - this company is going to get a seriously pissed of customer calling on Monday. The original bleeders now leak as well so the speed bleeders have ruined the threads in my calipers. Looks like a trip to the machine shop or some new calipers. At the cost of speed bleeder...

Thanks for the suggetion - two of the nuts stipped so I took 'em off with the wheel - went through like butter. Glad I ordered the lines - need them now. They were only $20 ea. I'll have the project finished on Sat and will post my satisfaction. Next update will be in April following a DE at Pocono. Cheers Ben

OK - so I have installed the parts purchased from DRT (top quality - perfect fitment). Irony is that I'm having a hell of a time removing the brass flare nuts that connects the rubber brake line to the metal line connecting to the caliper. The nuts on the calipers came off fine but three of the four connecting to the rubber brake lines wont budge and one is now getting stripped. Got one new braided steel line on there easily - the other three are just being pains in the @ss. I've ordered new metal caliper lines from the dealer because I'm stumped and getting ready to use my cutting wheel on the little brass nuts. The dealer had no suggestions other than to bring them the car. I refuse to quit. Any suggestions? I'm using the special slotted wrenches designed to surround the nut to prevent stripping and have soaked them in penetrating liquid wrench oil. I have not applied any heat yet - that will be my last shot before cutting. Any issues using a propane torch to warm 'em up? Besides setting my car on fire or melting the fittings.... Thanks for any suggestions.

Hi - looking for an inexpensive fire extinguisher mount. Got the clasp and fire extinguisher already. Need this for track days. PS - if anybody has a trick way to make my own, let me know. Please contact benspeeder@yahoo.com Cell 973-479-5123 Thanks (if placed in wrong topic area let me know)

That is a way cool mod concept. Only concern is somebody lightly rear ending your car could ring up a big bill by mashing the turbo components. Do you see that as a problem? I have no alternative suggestion for placement being not much of a wrench. If the risk of mashing isn't too bad you might have a marketable race product.

Hi Shawn, I have a long history of racing with SCCA in GT1 and started by doing autocross and DE events with PCA. I purchased the Boxster as an ITR race project, but ended up with such a mint qaulity car I'm going to drive it for a year or two before I have a company like Farnbacher Loles rip it apart and cage it. Never heard of stainless lines going bad in my 15 years racing...but thanks for the heads up - I will Google that. The stainless lines not only provide a higher measure of safety from getting cut, they provide firmer pedal feel due to less expansion in the lines. Best, Ben

I just ordered: $310.00 F+R rotors (Zimmermann) Drilled and slotted with red poweder coated hats. > > $140.00 F+R PBR ceramic pads > > $60.00 F+R sensors (4 total) > > $90.00 SS brake lines kit (Techna-Fit w/lifetime warranty) > > > > $600.00 plus shipping They did the deal for no shipping. This has been the best priced deal I've been able to find - I'll let you know what I think once it's installed. They did guarantee fitment. Cheers, Ben

Thanks RSFeller - I just sent them a note inquiring if they can sell me a total brake package for my '99 2.5

COOL! - I removed my heat shields - problem solved. Good to hear from Chris in NH - no probs for 4 years.

Thanks for the info on your header install. The rules allow exhaust, intake and a .040 bore over, weight reduction to 2850, any suspension using stock mounting points and safety equipment. No internal engine changes or forced induction permitted. The car will race against cars that are roughly 200-240 hp at the crank ranging from 2700 - 3200 pounds. I think the Boxster will be the best handler of the lot. The 968 was very tempting but I bought a 97 Boxster - one of the first built and have always loved these cars. Anybody else see any full header back upgrades achieving any remarkable HP?

Thanks for the info on your header install. The rules allow exhaust, intake and a .040 bore over, weight reduction to 2850, any suspension using stock mounting points and safety equipment. No internal engine changes or forced induction permitted. The car will race against cars that are roughly 200-240 hp at the crank ranging from 2700 - 3200 pounds. I think the Boxster will be the best handler of the lot. The 968 was very tempting but I bought a 97 Boxster - one of the first built and have always loved these cars. Anybody else see any full header back upgrades achieving any remarkable HP?

Hi - I'm looking into making my '99 2.5 Boxster into an SCCA ITR race car and really am curious about the verified performance increases a built exhuast makes. Not worried about how much $$ - my concern is that most of the ads are BS and I could spend $3K to make 10HP. I'd take that money and buy new tires every race and be quicker or buy some really top line shocks - JRZ or Motons. Thanks PS - if there is a Boxster race thread please send me there :-) Newb on this site

That was easy. Used an allen wrench to release the latch and then removed the latch pin on the glove box cover so it cannot lock. FIXED

Good to know that's possible - any tecnique tips? Maybe a small allen wrench?

Hey folks - a question from a newb. I just bought a '99 Boxster and the center glove box is locked shut and the key cylinder mechanism is missing. Locked tight with a hole where the lock should be. Any suggestions on the fix? Info on the car: 1999 Boxster Silver with Silver hardtop 71K miles - service book stamped up to the 60K service interval - done at 68K miles Small hole in front bumper behind license plate Small nick on right rear fender Some loose heat shields that make a minor rattle Perfect interior - mint Litronic headlights Power memory seats Checked out by a Independant Porsche shop I've used for 20 years - no issues at all - needs front brakes in about 5K miles $11,500 with a 60 day warranty What do ya think - sweet deal? What should I be looking for during this warranty period?

Thanks Stefan. I will give that a try. The only reason I concluded that it wasn't the heat shields is because of the apparent dependency on the RPM range (BTW I don't have a super Boxster, that is 2500 not 25000 RPM) and how I have to feather the accel to get the noise. I guess it is possible for the loose heat shield to have resonant frequency near that of engine at these RPMs. Do I need to remove the post cat O2 sensors before banging on the muffler? I've heard that they are sensitive to shock. Will report back with solution (hopefully) Hung I have a '99 Boxster and my heat shields rattle and the problem you describe is exactly what's going on with my car. I'll be mounting them up good and tight this weekend.