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Everything posted by benspeeder

  1. Hi Loren - Thanks for that heads up. Called my local independant P shop - they said install the pump, flatbed the car on down and it's a simple process for them to run through the cycles with their equipment. Great example of why this forum is so valuable - I'd have put the pump in and bled it and thought I was done. Thanks, Ben
  2. I think I figured it out - the blockage is at the ABS pump. Replacing that with hopefully do the trick.
  3. OK - I've got this 1992 968 I bought for parts and the car was just too nice so I've restored it to be a street car - something to beat around in that's the same year and model as my race car. It sat for 6-8 years. I got it running well and drove around some country roads. Checked the brakes - all four rotors were hot so brakes seemed to be operational. Rotors and pads were just cruddy so I replace with new rotors and pads. Go to bleed the brakes - cannot get hardly any out of the rear calipers. Here's my symptoms: • Can't get any fluid out of rear calipers - only a spit or two - pedal will not go down with bleeders open • Front calipers - I can pump fluid through but it takes a mule to push that pedal • When the front bleeds it feels erratic - pedal won't go, then will drop, next pump smooth, then pedal is rock hard won't move, next pump it'll go down but not smoothly - sorta weird • Front calipers will function • Rears calipers do not function with pedal depressed What I've done: • Bought a motive power bleeder - this did nothing alone - but it did help when I also push the pedal • Started disconnecting the rear lines where there were fittings to see if there was fluid/blockage - no fluid at the rear fitting where the lines disappear under the chassis - • Disconnected the lines at the master cylinder and looped hose back into the reservoir - brake pedal works nice and smooth - fluid moved from both lines no problem I figure there's a blockage somewhere - not sure if I can run compressed air into the system without damaging anything. I was informed not to run more than 20-30 PSI into the lines. Can I use the power bleeder to push fluid from the rear back towards the reservoir to unseat a blockage? Any suggestions on this odd problem?
  4. I ordered up a motive power bleeder - it must be better than the hand unit I've got. I used a hand vacuum pump and was able to get 25 psi of vacuum and still couldn't pull any fluid. I'll use the motive when that comes in but my gut is telling me this is something else... Any other ideas on what is preventing the fluid from reaching the rear calipers? Is there brake bias that could be stuck or some kind of circuit actuator? Thanks
  5. Yep - just might have to get one. So I took the lines off the back of the rear calipers - no fluid. So is my master brake cylinder dead? The booster? Thanks
  6. I have a strange problem on my 968. I put on new pads and rotors, repacked the front bearings. All is going well. I have my assistant pumping the brakes for a system flush. She pumps the brake pedal and I get only 2-3 squirts of fluid out of the right rear caliper and then nothing. Brake pedal is firm even though the bleeder is open. I try the left rear and same thing - 2-3 squirts and then nothing. Now I'm really confused. I try the left front and that seems to be operating correctly. I have my assistant hold down the brake pedal. Front brakes are engaged - rear brakes - nothing. It seems like there is no longer any pressure to the rear system. Anybody have any suggestions?
  7. So I have removed the ancient CD-1 unit from my 1992 968. What is a nice radio replacement - I will be doing the install myself - have not done one before but took it out OK. Cheers - back to my scheduled Sam Adams.
  8. Becker is the manufacturer? or Blaupunkt? Do you know (for sure) if it requires a 4 digit or 5 digit code? I do know it required a 4 digit code. I have 2 968 cars and the original radio code card is still with my Club Sport replica and the radios are the same. Pretty sure it is not Blaupunkt - on the 968 forum it has been reported as an Alpine and a Becker. I don't know for sure. Thanks Loren - the help is most appreciated
  9. Hi - I've done some searches but cannot find a radio code for the 1992 968 CR-1 radio. From my other 968 the code 5625 does not work Anybody have some other codes I could try? Thanks, Ben
  10. OK - I located and purchased a 1992 968 that is in excellent condition besides some roadblast on the nose. Owned for 12 years and well cared for by the seller. Car has the M030 brake upgrade, MO3O suspension, koni yellows, chip, strut bar, custom ram air intake, LSD, ac delete, cruise delete, carbon fiber sunroof. Custom exhaust with no cats. Needs a header. So its got some nice stuff on it to start with. So now I two potential cars for ITR in the garage - the Boxster and 968. I may bring them to LRP for a shootout running them on the same wheels and tires to see which car suits me best. But I'm leaning towards the 968. I'm going to put the collector plates on it so it won't need to pass inspection in NJ and drive it a little. I'll keep folks posted. Anybody with some 968 race experience - please give a holler. Ben
  11. Thanks guys - I'm leaning towards a 968. Trying to hunt one down :-)
  12. Wow - surprised no replies on this one. Must be a bunch of garage queens on this board.....poke poke
  13. The SCCA has classed the 97-99 Boxster, 944 S2 and 968 in ITR. Weights are: Boxster 2830 S2 2810 968 3055 I'm curious what folks think would be the best performing car, easiest/toughest to develop and the most costly to race. Thanks for the feedback in advance. Ben
  14. Hello - does anybody know the weight of a stock Boxster 17 inch twist wheel? Wondering how the weight compares to lightweight track wheels and if I should just buy another set of stock rims for some track tires or go for some lightweight wheels. Thanks, Ben
  15. Yo - try putting some Viagra in the gas.... Sorry dude - too easy, had to do it..... :rolleyes:
  16. Wow - no comments??? What happened to all those performance focused Porsche owners???
  17. Chris - is that the voice of experience? I had that happen on a race car - couldn't get to the track that weekend because nobody could get the fill screw off after we drained the tranny fluid.
  18. OK - getting this Boxster prepared as an ITR racer for SCCA. The cage will go in last as I will be enjoying the car while building it out. I'm a fan of Bilstein and run those in my GT1 car but I don't know if the PSS9 is the kit to buy - I've seen some prices over $2K for the kit and am interested if there are better deals out there. I've also seen some kits in the $1200 range - price is right but are they comparable to the Bilsteins? I'm not going to go for JRZ or Motons or Penske - I'd put that kind of money in the GT1 car. Any suggestions on a swaybar kit? How about strut tower braces? Final effort would be delrin bushings or aluminum - anybody go that far on one of these cars? I've sorta given up on all the BS I hear about power increased from exhaust and intake - doesn't seem like any gain over 10 hp is realistic and for some huge money - I'm going for the handling first. Is anybody familiar with these kits? This includes the camber plates. http://www.raceinspired.com/ps-8744-176-d2...er-1998-up.aspx Or this kit http://www.weaponspeed.com/PORSCHE-BOXSTER...ng-p-24220.html Any suggestions would be most appreciated. This is for the track - comfort is not a focus. Why work when you can shop the web for toys???? :clapping: Ben
  19. OK - we have a new Boxster. After my '99 was totalled I had that settlement money burning a hole in my pocket - especially since spring pricing is now being observed - less dealer desperation. Purchased 1998 Silver and Black Boxster with hardtop, extra mint - brand new condition, underside of car spotless, new brakes and Hankook tires, 65K miles, 2 owner. Paid $15.7K. Bought the sales manager's personal car at Acura of Westchester - a high end dealership. Golt a basic used car warranty for 60 days. Let's see if Pocono has still got some slots available......
  20. Good suggestions - the car that was mashed was so mint - I will hold out like a virgin for the next one the is similar. I got the sense from the dealer that the car was a rat. Swaybar links all worn out - that means it was driven hard for the miles on it. Bunch of other problems too. They always look better in the pictures on the web I may have to go S - got the dollars - and I could race it in T2 in SCCA.
  21. You are correct sir - no side impacts on a '97. Just got the results of the PPI - rear main seal leaking badly - this deal is cancelled. Hope the guy will return my deposit. Always pays to have a PPI done by a Porsche dealer.
  22. Thanks guys - I made a massive amount of money on this but don't want to post for fear of my insurer reading and getting upset. I'll PM you with the amount. The car will definitely see track use, but the rules are wheels remain 17s so I suppose I won't upgrade, but I will push the car to the limit. I'll have my local Porsche race shop look into if it needs any reinforcing and can that work be done for a nominal cost. It would be against the rules but in this instance safety trumps rules and I doubt there is much if any performance advantage. The insurer paid me over $2000 for the hardtop so I won't take it - who can sell me one? New Boxster is black. I'm heading to the for sale section to see if there's anything local I can buy. Getting the Porsche dealer pre purchase inspection done today on the car - pick it up tomorrow. No grass grows under this racers feet. :-)
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