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alfloiz

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About alfloiz

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  • From
    Baltimore, MD
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2005 Porsche Boxster S
  1. My car was parked in a hotel lot for two days in Rehoboth, DE. There was a lot of rain! When I checked out, the windows behaved erratically. They would down, but not up. Then up but not down. Eventually, both windows working stopped halfway up. The switches did nothing! I drove home (about 3 hours) with the windows halfway open. During the drive, I occasionally checked and both windows remained inoperative the whoIe time.When I got home, I checked the fuses and both fuses were OK. After a night in my garage, the driver's window worked perfectly! The passenger window lowered correctly but inched upward, on it's own, a step at a time until it was fully closed. Both windows lowered correctly when the top latch was released. A day later, both windows were operating but the passenger window squeaked when going down. Several days later, I parked on a city street to attend Baltimore's Artscape festival. It was hot. When I returned to the car, the external temp guage showed 100 degrees! I opened the windows and started the aIr conditioner at full blast. Then the driver side window would not close. The switch was dead. I drove home (about 15 mins.) with the window open. That night, I checked the window again and it worked perfectly! I can understand (but not excuse) water interfering with the electrics. Doesn't it rain in Germany? But why, when everything was obviously dry (two days and 100 degree heat) would the problem occur again?
  2. After recent service on my 2005 Boxster, the driver's door is not detected as "open". The passenger compartment lights do not come on, the "Key in the ignition" warning does not come on and the window goes all the way up, not 1/4 inch lower as it should. I noticed that, after service, my clock was set wrong and the MPG indicator was reset. Could it be that the service computer accidentally disabled the driver's door open sensor?
  3. I want to remove the panel containing the switches to open my front and read deck lids. I think they are broken or the plug is out. There are two screws holding the panel in but they are deep and covered by a flap of carpet. My star and allen sockets do not engage the screws. Does anyone know what type and size these screws are?
  4. I'd love to have the schematic. My e-mail is alfloiz@toast.net. Both switches feel "soft" when I pull them. There is no click. I suspect the plastic levers are broken. Both switches are electrical and interface into controllers for the rear and front lids. The front lid is operated by the front controller and the rear lid is operated by the rear controller - these then go into the door lock circuitry which have "less complicated" controllers to open the lids. I have some schematics for my 07 Box that I could send you (can't post due to copyright laws) -- send me a PM with your email if you want them. Also, when you pull on the switch, do you hear any noises of any kind for the two lids? If you know someone who has access to the PIWIS or the Durametric tools, you can exercise these controllers and open the lids to show that the controllers are working. Regards, paul...
  5. The owner's manual indicates that an electrical connection is necessary to open the lids. I take that to mean that they are electrical switches. The dealer that they were not working because a cable needed adjusting but I believe he was wrong. If they are switches, I am considering removing them entirely and replacing them with toggle switches which work.
  6. There are two small levers (switches?) at the base of the driver's door that operate the front and rear lids. Mine don't work. Are these mechanical links operating cables? The movement is very short. They feel more like electrical switches. Is there any other way (except of course the remote key buttons) to open the front or rear lids from outside the car?
  7. About a month ago, I was dismayed to discover a sheet metal screw embedded in my right front tire. I wasn’t loosing any air so I took it to a local Firestone dealer and asked his opinion. He said that it was too far from the tread to be repairable and since I wasn’t loosing air, he recommended that I leave the screw in place and consider replacing all four tires, which had a lot of wear but probably would have made it through the winter and spring. I researched replacement tires and decided that I wanted Continental DWS. The car was parked in a garage during the recent snow event in Baltimore and when I got it out last Monday. I went to the Firestone guy and was prepared to replace four tires. He did not have my size in stock so I asked him to find the Continentals which he agreed to do. When I did not hear from him, I found another local dealer (Hillen) who sold many different brands including Continentals (and Falcon which were rated number one by Consumer Reports). Wednesday morning, I started out to Hillen to buy new tires but the left front was totally flat! I was only a block from home so I limped back and got the Porsche tire repair kit out of the car. I connected the air pump to the power outlet in the passenger foot well, and started to inflate the tire. I could see the hole were the screw used to be and there was air leaking from it. The pump ran for a few minutes, with little effect, and then quit. It blew the 7.5 amp fuse! I had a manual foot pump at home for bicycle tires so I got out the Porsche tire repair juice and I removed the tire valve (as per Porsche instructions) and emptied the squeeze bottle into the tire. Then I pumped enough air (about 15 lbs) to drive the car to the nearest gas station, (about a mile) and I pumped the tire to about 40 lbs. I used the remaining time on the air pump to top off the other tires and when I was done, I checked the “flat” and it was down to 29 lbs. So, I drove along a local street the 15 miles or so to Hillen tires. The car handled reasonably well but when I got to the tire store there was very little air left. I got four new Continental DWS’s. I have replaced the blown 7.5 amp fuse with a 10 amp. There is no excuse for fusing a power plug too low to operate the air pump when there is, after all, NO SPARE! I replaced the nearly useless Porsche tire repair juice with a pressurized can of tire sealant. At least this will put some air back in the tire.
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