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seattleturbo

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About seattleturbo

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 08/23/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Seattle, WA, USA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 996 Turbo
    2007 Mercedes S550 4Matic
  • Future cars
    2008 Porsche GT 2
  • Former cars
    2003 Lexus LS 430
  1. OK, I am pretty sure voodoo was involved and who knows if it is fixed forever. Yesterday I drove around with the window down an inch and then left it in the car for 6 hours or so with the window down. When I drove it later I put the window up and I had no problems. I wondered if perhaps the rubber around the window had compressed enough that the window never thought it was fully in the up position so I left the window down overnight and repeatedly soaked the rubber with rubber conditioner. I drove the car for 40 minutes this morning and no problem. It is currently snoozing in the garage with more rubber conditioner on the door gasket. Like I said, voodoo. I'll let you all know if it stays "fixed".
  2. I just tried the window reset fix and sadly it did not fix anything.
  3. Thanks for the response. The battery is a snazzy gel military grade (at least that's what the guy at t battery store told me) one that I bought less than 12 months ago. Even when the old battery was dying and the car was hard to start I didn't have this problem.
  4. Thanks. I will try that but I suspect this is not the answer because the interior lighting goes on and off (like when the window goes up and down) even if the window is rolled down which tells me the problem persists with the window not completely rolled up.
  5. I have a 2001 TT. Sometimes when I am driving the drivers side window will go down 10mm like I was opening the door, the interior light comes on, and then in a bit the window goes back up. This can happen 10 times in 5 minutes or not at all for days. I suspect a micro switch in the door but I am not sure which one. I think there are 7 of them. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do to fix it (other than taking it to the dealership)? I would like to fix this myself if I can. I read in one of the DYI columns that the micro switches are about $120 a pair from Porsche which, unless they are carbon fiber and gold is pretty dear for micro switches. Has anyone found another source for the micro switches? Thanks, Mike
  6. The MAF in my 2001 996 turbo died. I called the dealer in Oregon from whom I buy my parts and they wanted $570, and told me this was down from MSRP of about $770. I bought the Bosch unit from Amazon.com for $149.95 with free shipping. It is an exact replacement; it even has the Porsche part number on it. I just wanted to pass this on because it was such a good deal.
  7. Thank you very much for the answer. So Porsche is protecting me from myself, wow. Is this common to all Porsches, just Porsches built after a certain date, or just certain models? So is this a 4 mph error as indicated in the Pelican forum or is it 4%? BTW I searched this forum for anything that contained "speedometer" with no luck before I posted my question. I hate to reinvent the wheel.
  8. The city where I live has recently installed radar speed displays all around town. The speed on the displays match exactly with the speedo in my Mercedes. However, the speedometer in my 2001 996 Turbo is off by about 10%. When the speedo shows 33 mph, the radar shows 30, when it shows 44 the radar shows 44. I have the proper size tires on the car so I have dismissed this as the source of the error. Is there any way to adjust the speedometer in my Porsche. I ask because I know I can (somewhat) easily adjust the speedometer in my Mercedes. Thanks.
  9. I am also looking att a 1990 944 S2 Cab. This one has about 90.000 miles on it. It has had one owner for about 15 years and has a stack of receipts. It looks new in and out. It had a new clutch about 10,000 miles ago. Price is about $10k. Any other advice or words of wisdom?
  10. First, thanks to everyone who helped me figure out the belt tensioner. I still have the airbox off and was wondering if it is really worth installing a K&N air filter? K&N claims all kinds of good things as a result of fitting one of their filters. Does anyone have any practical experience? Does it really make any difference in performance?
  11. Hi Maurice: I just changed the belt and applied force to the 15 mm bolt that is a part of the arm attached to the tensioner, I suspect this is the purpose of the 15 mm bolt. It all went well but oddly enough it was harder to get the old belt out than it was to get the new one in. Thanks again for the help. It was greatly appreciated. Mike
  12. Hi Maurice: Thanks for the answer. I will twist on the 15 mm bolt and move it out of the way. Mike
  13. So I apply force to the 15 mm nut shown next to the tensioning roller shown in the top left photo in the DYI section, right? Is it spring loaded so it will snap back? I want to make sure so I do not break something? Thanks again for the help. I really appreciate it. Sometimes I miss my 1970 MG Midget. Sure I had to fold myself in half to get in it and it might do 100 mph downhill but one could work on it (as I had to often) with a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench (and a hammer). Actually what I miss is a Haynes manual for the Porsche. Mike
  14. Thanks Loren I read this in the DYI sectoin:"3. Relieve drive belt (3). - To do this, turn the tensioning roller clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the drive pulleys. " My question is, how do I turn the tensioning roller?
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