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Thank you for this guide! The only addition I have is to make sure the paper clip is a thick one--I know that was said, but it needs to be thick. The larger the better as this keeps the lock's locking mechanism retained. I was using a piece of thin welding wire and it was too thin.
4x130 is correct. Only two mass produced cars use this pattern: the 914-4 and the Volkswagen bug. The Bug has a different offset though. In general, going to larger wheels means changing to the Porsche 5 bolt patern (5x130). This can be done on the rear hubs by drilling and inserting studs. The fronts can be drilled, but the better option is to switch to a 911 front suspension.
I just finished repairing it this weekend. This was my first adventure under the car, so many things were new to me. Instead of separating the ball joint, I removed the inner bolt on the lower A-arm (after noting it's location for alignment. The axle nuts wouldn't budge with my compressor and impact wrench, but the breaker bar and pipe worked with some help on the brakes. The biggest thing I noticed was how close the exhaust was to the boots and how tiny some of those exhaust pipes are.....hmmm.....
Greetings, I have a 2000 986S with ~43000 miles that I found two simultaneous problems on this weekend. The first, is that both inner CV joint boots are cracked. I assume this is related to the heat from the exhaust, but it doesn't look like it will be fun to fix. The second problem is that both of my tires (BFG g/Force T/A) appear to be delaminating on the inner shoulder. One tire has about a 3 inch spot on the shoulder where the tread is visible. It also has a pronounced 'sub shoulder' throughout the entire circumference of the tire. The other tire is not as bad, but will need to be replaced. The tires have about 5000 miles on them. I assume both of these are un-related but I'll have the alignment checked anyway. Any other possible causes? The replacement tires will probably be pilot sports, I've never had problems with Michelin tires.