magcuda

the 88 944 turbo S and the 89 944 turbo had the front calipers of the 928

if the rear suspension you got has the cast iron calipers, it probably doesn't have the sport torsion bars or sway bar

so the seat is out of the car or just loose? or are you talking about the seat out and getting the switch wiring out of the connector?

it's been a while but they alway come apart when you don't expect it. I'm pretty sure it slides apart, any pressure on the pins toward the top of the plug will keep it from sliding.

the plug that goes to the seat motors need to come apart and the wires come out. make a good diagram of this when you take it apart

yes that is the sensor that reads the flywheel speed. did you try another relay?

they can look and test good but are bad, wish I had a dollar for every one I replaced.

to test the sensor you really need a scope but an analog volt meter set on AC voltage can give you a reading.

you do have a vacum modulator. the line is rubber at the trans and at the intake, a solid line in between. check for vacum first before tearing in to it

the speed sensor gives an AC voltage to the DME which in turn grounds the DME relay to power up the DME and the fuel pump.

common failure the DME relay, carry a spare! I don't know how many cars got towed in and started when they came off the rollback.

those bearings require the case being split, complete tear down.

I would check the advance weights before I tear down the motor

did you run the motor with the alt. out or at least the belt off?

CIS fuel system, need to be sure the sensor plate is set correct. need to check fuel pressures and warm up regulator and also the idle air valve.

not a fun system and you can pull your hair out getting it right. there are some books on these systems.

if you take it to a shop ask them if they have anyone that is fimilar with the system. it will probably an older tech

does your dome lights work? window relay stays alive when car is turned off until the door is opened, if it doesn't see that it will cause a drain. check door pin switches

try Schellers Foreign Car in Naples 239-649-4499

idle valve cleaned not replaced. that is the hot/cold variable. need to scope idle valve while it is acting up

the S motors were the first to come with the wide belt and automatic tensioner. the interesting thing is that you state you put the original parts on and they are too tight, talk about WTF?

the new ones were tight going together, you would have to get them started on the cam gear and roll them on. these belts also stretch quite a bit, thats why you have to retetion after 2,000 miles.

I never had to mill out the adjustment slot so I don't know why that had to be done. did you use a Porsche belt?

last time I priced those motors they were $600. If you are handy you can replace the switch, bought from electronics store or continue the current method

if the hose isn't leaking and you mess with it, it will start leaking. as I remember there were some "fittings" that went in the hose to make going through the pan easier

NO! the warranty company is paying the bill, the dealer is probably "marking up" the labor time. they have to come to a conclusion between them. you should not pay any more then your deductible, if you have one, and fluids etc.

the belt tension is critical on these engines, they need to be checked with the "cricket". you can check the sensor also, take it off and work it and watch light or with an ohm meter

read your new car warranty, when I was at the dealer adjustments were covered for a short period of time, so your dealer is doing you a favor telling you to come and have this done, should be covered under this adjustment warranty period. it is a good idea because the suspension does settle and will wear the inside of the tires. the dealer should have sand bags to properly load the Porsche, this is the only way to make the specs work for the Porsche

there is an oil sending unit at the very front of the engine, hard to see under the air box by the vent hose plate. this will leak and dump oil on the exhaust

the ignition, you need to remove the blind bolts and remove the assembly. you probably have to drop the steering column some.

the sunrrof check your drains. open the roof and pour water in the drains are behind the rear wheels and down the A pillar

there was a hot start update, where you mounted a ford type starter relay in line to the starter. modify the wiring on the starter and this helps the hot soak start problem

or you can reach your finger in under where the swx is and unstick it

match the fronts, if you don't like the fronts change all 4 next time.

this is the old style still. you should be able the see a piece of metal in the seat. then the trim goes on then a clip slips over the piece of metal then the plastic lever goes on thet

right I forgot about Mirek, he does excellent work also. he has done a lot of aero kits for me. I guess Gene Perez is getting too selective

the rear stayed pretty much the same. 85 1/2 is when they changed the interior, and suspension, dash is completely different and so are the door panels