magcuda

windshield comes out to get to those fasteners out

better plan on a new glass,too

1 disconnect battery

2 on the bell housing you will see the starter, can't miss it on the lower part of the bell housing

3 remove wiring from starter

4 remove the 2 bolts that hold it on

installation reverse process

sorry no picture

here is what I have

ETM_84_911.pdf

clean it and go, it isn't any magic coating

make sure the chain box isn't leaking down on the hose

that hose goes to the thermostat and the can be a PIA

on older cars to get off without stripping the threads

do you have fuel pressure?

are the injectors getting a pulse?

did the timing belt break?

trying cam hose again

CAM_HOSE.pdf

I guess we need to verify what hose

and also need to clean engine and verify where oil is coming from

air cooled motors have a lot of place to leak from

there is an oil pressure switch at the top middle that will run down

the is an old bulletin about a case leak that the oil cooler has to come off

I have attached a picture of the S hose and the left side cam hose, sorry couldn't

find a picture of the right side

says pic too big will try again

S_HOSE.pdf

no need to drain the oil, the right side is the harder side as you have the A/C compressor to deal with

one end of the hose is a banjo fitting, use new crush rings

the other and is a nut and Ferrel set up

the important thing is to counter hold the sending unit block so it doesn't loosen up

then you will need to replace those crush washers also

Thanks.... I am a little puzzled that the timing belt has to be changed every 30K.

write that in stone and live by it or it will get expensive

there is also an oil pressure switch at the top middle of the motor, same place as non turbo motors but the turbo oil feed line comes off the same place.

those oil coolers are pretty tough, they do have 3 large o-rings that seal them to the block. make sure they clean the motor and actually find the leak.

what does this mean???????

I was told that it was not building pressure and that if you turn the key 3/4 way several times rapidly, and then all the way it would start

basics - is it getting spark? what are the fuel pressures?

turbo tail leaves a lot of holes

non turbo mount in the grill holes

sounds like it is time to replace shifter bushings

PPI is pre purchase inspection, best done by a third party shop

I used to take pictures of the car including underside and engine to document any leaks and rust.

the oil consumption is OK, well within specs

one driving tip, these old turbos come on with a blast. be sure you are pointed in the direction you want to go when you mash the gas.

the 993 still had a good clutch and pressure plate set up

if you mis shifted a down shift 5 >2 it would not fly apart like 996/986 style

it would tear up the motor instead

guys I have said it before, don't alter the airbags. what is on there has been tested and won't leave a nice Porsche crest embedded in your forehead or eye.

you should always try to charge the battery first, jumper packs might get you you started but you still have a dead battery.

jump starts are deadly to electronics

booster battery chargers are also deadly to electronics

- = negative, black

+= positive , red

5525 in the PSM is stating a fault in the DME is being sent to the PSM

check DME for faults and diagnose accordingly

weren't some of the RS or cup cars have manual steering?

you might look at a parts catalog.

manual steering racks usually have different gearing because of no power assist. turn off your engine and see how hard it is to turn the steering wheel.

glad I could help!

I haven't had to do that in years, I knew I had the document and I shared

not enough grease

too tight

too loose

simple way to check pre load, see attached

911_FRT_WHL_BRG.pdf

just get a grill and bolt it on in place of the tail

remember to remove dash the windshield need to come out to get to the bolts