magcuda

I would guess this works on all 993s

You need the card with the bar code and the immo numbers

This is a PIA procedure, it will take a few tries as the timing has to be perfect

993 Immo.pdf

sounds like you have a vacum leak or your idle switch needs adjusting

I agree, the clutch center hub has come apart

some guys will say go to standard spring model clutch but that does take some modification

this isn't a job you want to do on jackstands

the tach jumping in older 911s is a sign of a charging system problem

it could be over charging to the point where it shuts it down

you need to rig a volt meter to see what is going on when the tach starts jumping

quite q bit of difference, I have attached a picture of each

have you tried pushing up on the top while pushing the button to try and make it contact a micro swx?

or you can try pull it down on the top with the button pushed, there is micro swxs on each closing motors that start the locking motors

to engage the windshield frame

worst comes to worst, you can use a long thin flat blade screwdriver to manula close the locking motors

I believe the procedure is in the owners manual

these are a different breed of animal

to pull the transaxle the rear suspension comes out first

if you don't want to do that and are still pulling the motor, loosen the trans mounts and push the trans

as far to the rear it will go, along with the torque tube. this gives the clearance to lift the motor

straight up and out. the front crossmember is welding in so you can't get that out of your way

go to www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

for more info

the body is steel, where are you getting the aluminum body/frame?

you need to get with the chip manufacturer and tell them this problem

the has the MAP in it

IXXI has about covered it all

I agree the 915 box is a pig, but needs some getting used to

the one thing you want to try to do is shift in to first only at a standing stop

this will make the first gear syncro teeth last much longer

you can't find a used motor?

I think that would cost a lot less and still keep an air cooled wide body on the road

just a FYI, BMW released this bulletin on beating on the rotors to get them off

it seems that beating on the rotors is making the wheel bearing fail prematurely

and want this puller used instead

REMOVE_ROTOR.pdf

"But I also noticed on that test info icon that the "bleeding screw" must be opened prior to perform the brake bleeding command,i don't have any ideea which screw it has to be opened?"

then step away from the car, good god man these are your brakes!!!!!

not a new tire shine or wax

if the gauge is pegged then you have a problem with the sender and or wiring

there was a superceded oil pressure relief valve to lower the oil pressure

they though it would help with oil leaks

your car should already have this, it was usually installed when the oil cooler seals were replaced

I don't know if it still in there but when I was at the dealer roadside would cover "lost keys"

but I agree with xmw, if you want to play, you gotta pay

Seth @ Technical Dimensions in Jax, if that is not too far north

a CIS fuel dist. sitting that long has to be gummed up, go with a rebuilt

you need to find a manual for this, the fuel injection is quirky and the wiring is of poor design

the wiring is similar to a 944 type 1

there are a lot of parts sources, just google it

the fuel system would really worry me

drain the tank, if there is any gas or what the gas has turned in to

flush the lines and change the fuel filter

looks like it is in good shape, take your time and go through the fuel system and the oil change like Loren suggested

it will save $$ in the long run and make the car enjoyable

the little filter is for the valve train and is changed at 30k mile intervals

Low speed idle and put away isn't really good on the engine.

this is very true as you will get fuel contamination in the oil

I can't read that position in my 993 file but in 964 it says it is in the center console

I thought it was behind the oil temp/pressure gauge

hope I am not sending you on a wild goose chase

1 bar = ~ 14.7 psi

10 psi to every 1000 rpm has been a long standing rule of thumb

the weld has broken that holds the door stop, it need to be rewelded

easiest way is from the door jam, a good welder can keep it looking ok

then the door jam needs to be repainted, I would find some one in your area that has done it before

the bolts you are after are inside the defroster vents, the vents come out then the bolts are removed

you might try a dash cap, I have seen them in Perf products