magcuda

I don't know how I missed this a few months ago. when I raced firehawk series I was told by Jerry Woods to run mobil 1 synthetic only (I know but it was the only thing in 86) or the #2 rod bearing would fail, he learned the hard way!

so there I am at Sebring running a 6 hour on conventional oil. we made it to end but when I tore down the motor #2 was shot. Jerry also told me not to put a oil temp gauge in the car because it would scare me!

don't forget to pump down the system pressure!!!!!!!

if not you will have a lot of pressure behind the ball when you take it loose

also check the multifunction swithes, contacts in it may have corrosion

if that is your engine it is already gone isn't it? on the SC it was driven off the alternator pulley, I'm pretty sure

the turbo was driven off the oil scavange pump on the back of the cam

Loren is right you need to remove the pump and hoses and valves, you remove the air injectors in the heads and put brass plugs in their place

a good place to check is also the pick up coil in the dist. I would check that before throwing a $$$$ CD box at it

if you don't put it on blocks set tires to max PSI to help prevent flat spots

here is the Stahlwille of Germany socket, this picture is of a 17 mm but it also comes in 19 and 20.8 mm

ST2309K.pdf

the 13 85 19 04 is the Porsche labor operation for replacing the upper balance shft belt

the 810 is 8.1 hours

never mind the 2

that is as official as I can get for you, it is a print out from POSES

Skip in Sarasota Florida, I work for Baum tools and we have the i-Scan and are now selling the Durametric. Always glad to help the local guys clear codes.

take the wheel off and put a bag over the brakes, to stay clean. follow the wire down to the grommet on the sheet metal. pop the grommet loose and you will see the sensor, you need a slotted socket to install the new sensor so you don't cut the wire

will this do , I didn't realize my program could go back that far for this

factory labor op and time

Apos1.pdf

the warranty flat rates were on micro fiche back then, no books.

real fun to to use!

what do you need an estimate on?

the warranty doesn't cover the MAF?

after you get it cleaned up, spray some baby powder up there. where the leak comes from will leave a trail in the powder.

go under the fender and remove the 3 bolts that hold the flap on, then take some heavy fishing line and come from under neath to relase the latch

sounds like the helper spring on the bell housing.

Also some in the front trunk depending on the fuel load

have all the bushings checked, especially the front. then get a good 4 wheel alignment at a Porsche shop, one that puts weight in the car while performing the alignment, it does make a big difference

idle problem, make sure the throttle cable is not kinked or not sitting properly on the pulley. also check the idle micro switch and the throttle position switch

the fans sounds like it is direct wired

Loren, do the 993 TT have the valve guide problem or just the NA cars? I don't think I've heard of any

if so some oil on the sensors might be causing this also

had to look this up, throttle jacking new one on me

diag conditions:

driving with changing pedal positions

possible fault cause:

open circuit

short circuit to B+

affected terminals:

1/7 and 1/9

so with a break our box check voltage at the pins, if not repair wiring

clacking clanking hard to say without seeing hearing feeling the car. it could also be dual mass flywheel and / or clutch hub. best to take car to someone fimilar with this model

17" wheels yes, but what are the tire sizes? if they are not porportionate to the original size it will throw the speedo off.

yes, Porsche tried the GM additive and even put a brace from the engine to the exhaust. the limited slip will make some noise

the line coming off #5 the carbon canister is short, so fumes come out right under the drivers seat. there was an old bulletin about adding a piece of hose to extend it back a bit further