magcuda

I would consult your owners manual

interesting article along this line

http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/arti...28/newsletter01

the wire screws in to the connector, if it is broken you are not getting spark to that plug. the engine has a dual plug set up so the cylinder was getting fire.

while you have it apart make sure that the belt in the dist. isn't broken. if you can turn one rotor and not the other the belt is broken

what is the tire sizes?

the running might be due to the head temp sensor

it is probably related to the pressure switch in the booster.

if you cycle the key does the light reset?

Robbins makes a very good top for these. it is a pain to do, can't be in a hurry and need to measure three times before glueing

you are right on the TPS, sorry a little rusty on these. check the full load and idle switch

is the cat blocked on the other exhaust?

964_Intake.pdf

crank sensor replaced , why? is it factory? air gap for sensor checked?

this car does have a throttle position switch, is it adjusted correctly?

The MAF (Flapper/Barn Door type) had some corrosion and wear but has been repaired to specs but made no difference with the problem afterward.

how was the above performed, once the band gets corrosion it is almost impossible to clean it. was the spring taken off and did it get back in the exact position?

also I would replace the DME relay just because

it could be the original block with bigger pistons and cylinders, the engine number will tell that.

blown turbo = bad news lots of little pieces of metal all in the engine, I've seen pieces get by the rings and really tear up cylinders.

fun car though, when that big turbo kicks in you really feel it, not like the current turbos that come on quick and gentle

what is a crazy sound? free revving, clank , clink, clunk?

4000 is about where the cams should start "coming on" so is the clutch slipping? does the tach go up?

not neccesary to disconnect battery as this will loose the adaptation of the engine and wil take a while to self adapt back

the non intercooler cars had a regular low whale tail, this car has the larger tail to fit the intercooler. the only way to tell if it is a motor swap or modified is to get the engine number.

a little more trivia , the reason the 930 turbos were not sold in the US for a while is that a woman in Ca. sued Porsche when she lost control of the car and crashed. Porsche agreed not to sell 930 turbos anymore in the US.

well then came the name change to 911 turbo and started selling them in the US

ther is 2 sets of mounting holes, I used to move them to the rear and get a 6 foot 8 football player in them

the drain is on the bottom and the fill is on the side, sorry no pictures to back it up.

one thing that I have found is when you put swepco in a car that has a lot of mileage it makes the syncros too "slippery" and you get gear grinding since the syncros are not slowing down the gears for engagement enough

you put supercup cams in it , what else did you do? just because you put big cams in a motor, any motor, you have to give it a supporting cast. intake work, higher compression, headers and exhaust

also bigger cams are timed for more near the top of the rev range so you may not have "felt" them yet

the levers are to have a fast idle at cold start up, I think this is was more for the mechanical injected cars- I think- long time ago

the other is to open the heater boxes

Also I was thinking, if it curbed it hard enough to bend the wheels, you will want to put some wheel on it and put it on an alignment rack to see if anything is bent. the old 911s had enough trouble keeping the shock towers from falling without taking a side impact

CPO is treated like the new car warranty as far as mods to the car. READ the fineprint in the policy because you can void it very easily, don't push the grey areas.

this is a dealership issue, PCNA usually doesn't touch this type thing. second owner way out of warranty

now the 97-98 Boxsters PCNA knows there is a problem with them, cylinder liner slipping, they replaced enough engines back then. but once again they don't do much for second owners.

or the fork in the bell housing breaks. get under the car and see if the linkage coming out of the bottom of the bell housing (where the cabke connects to) turns, if it does it is broken inside.

the engine and trans need to come out to replace

since the A/C is inop and this is a DE car you can unbolt all of the components. I would leave the fresh air blower though because 1 you might need some defroster air some time and 2 it is a pain to remove.

the rest of the parts unbolt and you can then get the hoses that run down the left rocker panel out of there also

911_A_C_Components.pdf

the balance shafts are out of time and causing the vibrations at that RPM. they need to be timed correctly to eliminate them. the problem is the pulley can go on the balance shafts in 2 positions. motor mounts usually give vibration at idle speed. that is why you will see some 944s with the idle jacked up to over 1000 RPM.

longer bolts did come with the seat assembly, so the tech would take the shorter bolts and put in their tool box and insall the longer bolts. after installation the airbag bag control unit needs to be coded to recognize when the child seat is attached.

yes, Porsche names it cars- well used to- by project numbers ie: 924 931 944 951 968 964 etc

so the 944 turbo was a project 951

1 and 7 are not used

2 and 3 are fuel pump relays turbo only

4 heater blower relay

5 relay window defogger relay

6 is the plug for the idle control valve by pass tool, no longer made.

so blocking it should not be a problem

the early 95s did not have the immobilizer so they do not have the remote entry which activate the immobilizer

feel lucky as the immobilizer can cause trouble and is difficult to code.

you can add an aftermarket remote entry / alarm