magcuda

to install a DME that is already been coded to another car is difficult. I have done it once but it was 8 years ago and the Porsche engineer was on the phone talking me through it, I was at the dealer then.

good luck even if you get the sucurity codes.

good years you have chosen. the turbo look is nice because you get the wide body and the big brakes. the 88s had a valve guide issue but those should all be fixed by now.

you can chip the control unit but stock is a pretty nice package. it is not a vette killer but in the long run it will out last the vettes.

too much for this car!! 924S with electrical, A/C and cooling system problems

sounds like a money pit to me

$1500 car at best then you have some money to fix it

sounds about right. what does the temp gauge read when the engine is "cold"?

you can put a resistor(s) in the wire to the sensor untill you get it reading correctly on the gauge.

on turn in or exit? what corners?

sitting for 3 years? is there a nest in the air filter restrictin the intake air flow?

you might have stuck injectors, run some techron through them to clean them up

1995 model also have an engine wiring harness recall, check with PCNA on that

thinking of a light weight flywheel, think again for the street. the dual mass flywheel absorbs engine vibrations with out that the trans sounds like it is coming apart at idle. also coming down at from normal speeds the lighter weight of the flywheel does not keep the engine rotating like the dual mass and the engine stalls. the only fix for the stalling is to get a euro DME that is not EPA approved.

just a voice of experience that gave these warings to customers and they wanted it anyway, then paid me again to install the dual mass back in

what do you need to know?

take it to the stock, see what it does. get it tech inspected and the brakes bled! you can get a chip and do tire wheel brake suspension upgrades but don't expect to keep up with newer 911s or 944 turbos

also the cat and muffler have to come off, unbolt the A/C compressor and place it on some thick cardboard on top of the rear fender cover. you should be changing your oil at this same time so do that first and it saves some mess.

actually the turbo s came out in late 88, 89 had all the turbo s features. big wheels big brakes etc. best model to get

sounds like a bad tensioner, you should have to put it in a vise and pin it in place to reinstall.

to far back to be the steering rack. might be a rear main seal or rear cam box gasket. it will run down the motor and since it is tilted will drip from the lowest part of the bellhousig.

I don't remember the displacement going up until the S2 came out. either way the engines are very relaible as long as you keep the timing belt changed. if using for a track car run synthetic oil or you will take out #2 rod bearing, could never get an answer from engine gurus but the one time I didn't sure enough I toasted #2.

do you mean for the spark plug tubes?

just a buyer beware note, read that fine print on the repair order before signing. also most repair orders fine print are continued on the back.

are you checking the oil level with the engine warm and running??

oil change of the tank and engine should be about 10 quarts

be careful of the boost so you don't blow the head off. are you making your own plumbing? put up some pictures of the install when you are done

bigger on the turbo isn't always better. get with a turbo guy and he can ball bearing and change the housings to make it spin up with out lag, and still have plenty of power topend. if you stay naturally aspirated not much you can do-chip- advance the cam 1 tooth etc

how is the front ride height? air under car = loose

also there isn't a whole lot of weight in the front, does it change with fuel load?

did you check the inner tie rod joints?

I had a S one time that as soon as you hit 5000 rpm, no matter what gear it started missing like it was hitting a rev limiter. turned out to be the speed/ reference sensor

good luck

about 7 psi is all you would be able to run through the 10:1 motor. if you get a turbo motor, get a worked turbo and a electronic waste gate control, with over take switch which bumps up to 1.1 or 1.2 bar for a quick shot- now that is a good ride.

I know a guy that took a S2 bottom end, got JE pistons and sleeved the block. used a 951 modified head with a roller bearing turbo and went fully adjustable ignition and injection system with fuelers that came on with boost. what a beast but it took constant tinkering with to keep it running, not to mention how much he dumped in to the project

this is the top of the motor, it isn't going to drain up

if you want your clutch to slip lube it, put the intake on and leave this alone. could be some throw out bearing noise or look at belt and pulley and tensioner

if you plan on putting a turbo motor in the car get the wiring harness and DME and KLR control units, along with exhaust. everything should pretty much bolt up. easier to do it this way then trying to convert the naturally aspirated motor, too much compression, intake and exhaust plumbing etc.

although I did have a chassis and and an extra small block chevy at one time- then I sobered up and got rid of all of it before I got started.

this could be most likely speed/reference sensor related. the way to check is to get the problem going and scope the sensor.

what type of management? Autothority used to have chips