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Harold 348

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Everything posted by Harold 348

  1. Just got this off the car via Durametrics. Cleared it and drove the car and fault has not (yet) come back. The codes tend to come back every couple of hundred kms and do not come back immediately... Clarification as to what the codes are trying to tell me please Loren... in particular the P0492 as I think this is a new code whilst the others have become regular over a couple hundred kms of driving. P1349 Camshaft adjustment bank 1 P0492 Porsche fault code 208- secondary-air system bank 2 P0420 Porsche fault code 40- Cat converter efficiency bank 1 P0430 Porsche fault code 45- Cat converter efficiency bank 2
  2. Just got a new fault code in the 996 TT. Durametric reads it as P0420, fault code 40, cat converter efficiency bank 1 and P0430, fault code 45, cat converter efficiency bank 2. Any idea if this is very serious and if car needs to be towed or can codes be erased and car driven to workshop. Thanks in advance. For information, the car is running fabspeed exhaust and cats.
  3. I currently run the Fabspeed on my tiptronic TT and the drone absolutely kills me. Have a friend with a tiptronic TT that has installed the Europipes. Strangely he apparently still encounters drone with the pipes (though I have yet to sit in his car and see what his idea of drone is), and when he contacted Europipes they said that it might have something to do with the fact that he is running it on a tiptronic. I find that slightly strange though. In any case, thanks for the info, will look into the Europipes more seriously now.
  4. Much thanks for the detailed response. Apologies, I was half asleep when doing the search and did not even realise there is a full section on this!!!
  5. Apologies for ignorance, but did a search and did not find a clear instruction as to how to use the Durametric cable. Have just received the cable and want to check out my pesky check engine light problem. Do I have to have the car warmed up and fully operating at runnng temp before I plug the cable/computer to the car or is there a specific procedure involved to get the readings for the Durametric. Thanks in advance.
  6. Anyone replaced their cross drilled rotors with slotted ones. I am sick of the cracking holes and am looking for a good source for the slotted rotors. Any leads appreciated.
  7. Thanks very much Loren, will bring the car in to have the new code identified and post the findings.
  8. Thanks very much Loren. That is what they thought so they replaced the solenoid valve. When they took the car for a test drive, all was ok until a few minutes later the check engine light came back on. They changed out the valve back to the original and now say that it is possible the timing is out. Intention is to drop the engine and do full adjustment/check on timing. Does that make sense or should they be checking something else first? My concern is we could be going down a big dollar wild goose chase here.
  9. Dear All, I have been having an intermittent problem with the check engine light coming on every so often and needing to be reset by the dealer. There is no deterioration in engine performance and no signs of anything going wrong except for the dash warning light. Fault identified by the dealer was P1349 camshaft adjustment, bank 1, intermittent (unfortunately I have no idea what any of this means). The report also mentioned that the camshaft position 1 deviation was 1.76deg crk compared to camshaft position 2 of -3.17deg crk. Once again no idea what this means except to understand that the engines timing is out one side compared to the other. The dealer has informed me that it is an intermittent problem and not serious yet. Car is going in for full timing adjustment/check within the next few weeks but in the meantime just want some additional comfirmation that it is not a major issue to continue driving the car whilst awaiting sending it in. Would the durametrics be able to clear the fault in the meantime (I have just ordered it)? Much thanks in advance for any further expansion of what are the implications of the current engine fault as per the DME reading, as the dealer is not great at explaining. Understand that if it gets worse, the cars ECU will go into some sort of "limp" mode to prevent damage to the engine?
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