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I bought an early '97 Boxster 2.5 with 5 speed a few years back with 105,000 miles. It shifted great at the time but over the past few years I started having difficulty with the 5th to 4th downshift and lately the 2nd to 3rd upshift has also become more difficult. I have no problems as long as I'm shifting within the gate, 1-2, 3-4, but shifting in and out of the middle gate seems to be the biggest problem. There's no gear grinding but a great deal of stiffness in the shifter. I had the center console off and the mechanism looks pretty dry. There are signs of it having been greased at one time so I've considered slopping some lube on it but the moving parts are a white plastic mostly. Any ideas of the best lube?
Thanks for the advice! It seems that when one handle doesn't work to drop the window the other one won't either. I'll remove the door panel and have a look at the lock micro-switch. I have a copy of the car schematic somewhere to help. I wasn't sure which components were involved but your info should help. Thanks everyone!
Sometimes when I open the door the window won't drop the little bit it's supposed to. It can be either from the inside handle or the outside handle. Sometimes it'll drop and come back up quickly too. Sometimes it works fine. What controls this? Is there an adjustment somewhere? Has anyone else had this problem? It's an early '97 2.5 Boxster 5-speed by the way. Thanks in advance.
I bought my '97 Boxster in the Fall of 2007 with 105,000 miles and currently have 134,000 on it. The only repair I've made was replacement of the coolant reservoir and a cracked oil filler tube which was giving me O2 sensor faults.
I'm not familiar with them. Do you have a link?
I renewed the tank in my '97 today. It wasn't leaking badly and only started leaking maybe a month ago. It would only leak when the temp got near the next line above 180 (215 maybe?). It first started on a very hot day in mid-June when I was driving in late afternoon 77 miles home from a business trip. Anyway today I replaced the tank using all the great info from the previous posters in this thread. Thanks to everybody for your help, whether you realized it or not. My only comments: The tank in my car had an .02 revision on it so I suspected at first it was also a replacement, then noticed the '96' in the circle below the part number. My car was built in Nov, '96 so I'm assuming it was the original. It lasted nearly 12 years and 116,000 miles so I can't complain too loudly I suppose. The replacement was a .10 revision as I stated in the previous post. It didn't have the dipstick hole drilled out; a 1 inch bit was perfect. It also had a large nipple for the overflow hose, much larger than the original tank. It was maybe 1/2 inch compared to the maybe 5/16 of the original, so I had to make an adapter for the hose to attach. I think I broke whatever contraption they use as an oil fill pipe, the part in the engine compartment, and will need to replace that soon so I will be ripping a few things apart again to do that. Otherwise it went well. I was able to use standard pliers to release the dreaded clamp in the engine compartment because it was angled in towards the drivers side. I tried to clamp the hose on the new tank but it wouldn't pass through the gasket so I took the clamp off and slipped the hose through, re-applying the clamp behind the gasket. Otherwise it wasn't too bad and I didn't even bleed! Tool Pants made a comment early in the thread that Porsche should have stayed with air cooling. As the owner of a '78 SC, I agree. That thought went through my mind often while doing this repair.
I just bought a new tank for my '97 today. The part # is 996.106.047.10.
To follow up, I replaced both O2 sensors for cyl 4-6 yesterday afternoon. They were the low price crimp on versions that the PO had purchased approximately 10K miles ago. I mostly suspected that the rear was bad, judging from the real-time data on the Durametric program and info from vizcarra44's post (Thanks!). I purchased sensors from Autohaus AZ with the plugs, the "OEM replacements". When I first drove the car immediately after, I once again got the 6 misfire codes after sitting at a traffic light for only a few seconds, but no O2 sensor codes this time. After resetting, I was able to let the car idle and it idled properly for several minutes. I drove it this morning, stopping and idling several times, during my 74 mile drive, and still no CEL. If this continues I will replace the O2 sensors on the passenger side as well, since the readings side to side are a bit different and they are also the cheap versions.
Maurice and Viscarra44, thanks for the info. I just bought this car about a month ago. The PO had just replaced all 4 O2 sensors but he said he got them from Auto Zone or Advance so now I'm thinking that this could be my problem. I have gotten faults for O2 sensors twice before and just cleared the codes. I plan to spend the day under the car investigating this. I hope it is only O2 sensors but I think I have a scheme for checking the VarioCam solenoid also, if need be. Unfortunately the only diagnostic tool I have is the Durametric. Thanks for the help.
Maurice, I also get a P0157 code, which is for the O2 sensor behind the cat, same side, 4 thru 6. I reset all the codes and will see if they come back in the morning. After further investigating my misfire I'm thinking that maybe the VarioCam solenoid might be the culprit. I'm not sure if that is something I can change or not. These codes only appear when I come to a stop and the car idles for a little. I clear them and take it out and drive it and it's OK. If I keep the revs up just even a little I get no CEL.
My car is a '97 Boxster, 2.5l 5-spd, with 106,000 miles. When I started it up this morning it began idling very rough and the CEL came on, flashing at first then steady. Since the light stopped flashing I drove the car a bit and it ran fine, except for the rough idle. I hooked up the Durametric and found the following codes, p1319, p1318, p1316, p1317, p0157, p0300, p0306, p0304, and p0305. These all are related to #4-6 cylinders and from searches of the misfire it usually points to checking the ignition coils but it seems pretty odd to me that all 3 coils on one side would fail at the same time. What else in common could cause this? Cam timing maybe? Any ideas? Also, is there a detailed OBD manual available that goes into a little in-depth troubleshooting of the fault codes? I live in the middle of Western PA. The nearest dealer to the east of me is about 125 miles, in Harrisburg, and to the west about 100 miles, in Pittsburgh. There is no one close to me that I would trust my Porsche to.