trauh

Loren - Thanks for the feedback. I've found what I thought were the 2 front radiators (on the front, outside edges behind the front bumper), but where are the AC condensors?

I don't think that is high enough to worry about.

The fans are behind the radiators. Just make sure that both the radiator and A/C condensers are clean of debris.

I have a 2001 C2 Cab, and recently replaced the coolant tank and then the cap (with the 01 model). I have noticed that, once the engine has warmed up, the coolant temp ranges from the left side of the "0" in 180 to the right side of the "0". I think it used to stay pinned to the left side of the 0, so I wonder if I have a problem.

I mostly see temps rise when I am driving slowly. At highway speeds it is pretty much stabilized at the middle to left of the 0. I did a search and found instructions to check the engine compartment fan, which I did and it works fine. I also saw notes about there being a fan(s) for the front radiator, but I cannot see anything there. I did check to make sure there were not leaves and junk obstructing the radiators.

Any thoughts on this? Or am I worrying about nothing...

Try replacing the alarm horn, as I had a similar problem with my car. It is an inexpensive part and it takes all of 5 minutes. The horn is located in the trunk beneath a blac plastic panel at the base of the windshield. Good luck!

Yes, they are electric. Air horns would be a more involved install, and certainly a lot louder.

I purchased a pair of Hella horns from Griots, and they used the existing wiring and mounting. It was a 5 minutes job once the bumper cover was off. FYI, my car is a 2001 C2. And those suckers are LOUD!

Dave,

Not sure if this is a VW/Audi part, but I believe the Porsche part numbers are as follows:

-fanfare (high-pitched) 996 635 206 04

-fanfare (low-pitched) 996 635 205 04

Are there any references to a VAG number/ID on the horn?

Thanks TTD,

I had a quick look with a mag lite the other day and didn’t notice one, however I’ll have a closer look this weekend and see what I can see.

I could take the bumper off to have a look, but don’t fancy doing the job twice.

If the Porsche units are expensive I’ll probably upgrade to some Hella units or similar as they’re probably cheaper (would also consider air horns, as there are some terrible drivers here in the UK!).

Does anyone have any suggestions for a horn upgrade? If so, can they be fixed to the existing mounts?

Dave

Thanks Trauh,

I take it the Hella horns are electric, not air horns that require additional compressor and have a delay when you hit the steering wheel?

Dave :clapping:

I purchased a pair of Hella horns from Griots, and they used the existing wiring and mounting. It was a 5 minutes job once the bumper cover was off. FYI, my car is a 2001 C2. And those suckers are LOUD!

Dave,

Not sure if this is a VW/Audi part, but I believe the Porsche part numbers are as follows:

-fanfare (high-pitched) 996 635 206 04

-fanfare (low-pitched) 996 635 205 04

Are there any references to a VAG number/ID on the horn?

Thanks TTD,

I had a quick look with a mag lite the other day and didn’t notice one, however I’ll have a closer look this weekend and see what I can see.

I could take the bumper off to have a look, but don’t fancy doing the job twice.

If the Porsche units are expensive I’ll probably upgrade to some Hella units or similar as they’re probably cheaper (would also consider air horns, as there are some terrible drivers here in the UK!).

Does anyone have any suggestions for a horn upgrade? If so, can they be fixed to the existing mounts?

Dave

Viper, What is your thinking re: transaxle fluid; do you think i tbreaks down over time or has there been a history of issues around that, or its more of a being conservative suggestion?

Cleaning radiators is a good suggestion for everyone -- I did mine in the fall (based on a post here) and was shocked to see how bad it was. Thanks again.

Personally, I'd add a transaxle fluid change to that list. Even though your miles aren't high, five years probably warrants a change although some may deem it excessive. Might also consider an alignment depending on the condition of your streets. Finally, I'd inspect and clean the radiators of debris.

I have a 2001 C2 Cab with 18K miles. Its had just basic service on it, and I'm thinking that after five years it needs some "spring cleaning". Here is what I am thinking, please let em know what you suggest:

Oil and filter (my normal spring maintenance)

Brake fluid

Pollen Filter

Air Filter?

Plugs?

How difficult was the install? E.g., do you just remove the old radio and install the new one with its GPS antenna, or is there more to it than that. I tried calling Becker Parts, but they told met hat they only had TrafficPro for Mercedes cars. Did I call the wrong number or is that the same unit??? Thanks for advice.

In October 2005 I ordered a Becker Traffic Pro from Becker of NA, (201) 327-3434, for $599. The unit is identical to the Porsche unit, except Becker is printed on the front instead of Porsche. It is perfect match to the dash and the CR-220 that it replaced.

I installed it myself using the instructions on this site, with no major problems. I asked Becker for the model that would most closely match my car, 2002 C2, and the color of the lighting is exactly like the rest of the interior. The TP functions perfectly and the quality of its operation is more than I expected. I had considered trying to find a PCM that would fit my year, but given all that I had read on this list i decided it was too expensive for what it was, not all that great, and a hassle to install. I did not consider a non factory NAV since I concour the car and wanted to keep a factory appearance. As you can tell I am very satisfied with the TP! Dave

Re: engine braking, when I attended the Porsche Driving Experience the instructors recommended pretty strongly not to use the engine as a brake. Their words were "brakes run $1K, your engine runs $15K", and "the brakes were designed to stop the car, the engine was designed to accelerate it". Granted they were referring to people downshifting to slow the car, but it was good information for me.

In combined city / highway driving , I get 20.3 to 20.4 miles per gallon. It depends on how heavy your right foot is and how keep the revs down to reasonable numbers in town. For instance: drive with the revs between 2,200 and 3,000 and use the appropriate gear to stay within that range. Brake on the engine as much as you can so you only use the brakes in the last few feet / yards before you come to a stop ( that will extend your pad / rotor life dramatically .. another way to save money while driving a Porsche). Of course all of this if you have a 6-speed.

In short, there is a list of 6 or 7 items to check, most of them related to air leaks. Its not unusual to end up with MAF being replaced. Search on P1128 and you'll find everything you need.

OK, I got it working. Pulling power for switch illumination off the PSM switch uses the center pin (#3) and one of the outer pins (#5). The power goes to the two outer pins (#1 and #5) on the Targa switch. And polarity does matter, so reverse them if it does not work the first time.

I sprayed the matte Targa switch with clear acrylic (4 lights coats) and it is a perfect match for the other glossy switches. This switch looks like a garage door that is open on once side and closed on the other. Not sure if that means I mounted it upside down, but it looks right to me.

Thank you for all the advice. I completed this just in the to store the car for the winter. :(

I installed a homemade garage door opener per instructions on this site, using a Targa switch as the button (for others with glossy switches, I sprayed the matte switch with clear acrylic to make it glossy). I wanted the button to illuminate with the lights on, and the only other switch near a blank was the PSM switch. To make a long story short, I figured out that the PSM switch (with its built-in yellow led indicator) is wired differently than the Targa switch, and I think I figured out the right leads for power to the light.

Targa used the two outside pins (#1 and #5, facing back of switch from left to right). PSM, I think, uses #2 and #3. Can anyone confirm that?

Car is a 2001 C2 Cab.

I've had a history of P1128 check engine lights on my 2001 C2 cab. It appeared to be fixed by tightening the bolts for the air intake on the throttle body. A few weeks ago, after 1,200 miles, it re-occurred so I took it to the dealer to have it checked. They diagnosed as needing a new mass air flow sensor, which I then replaced. It feels to me like the car is faster and it definitely gets better mileage since then.

Not sure what to take out of this, although I wonder if the leaking air intake could have damaged the MAF. I elected not to try to clean the MAF, given my long history of issues. Hopefully this ends the chapter for my nagging CELs! For those of you with similar issues (and there seem to be several), its worth noting the MAF replacement.

I don't know what year car you have, but for my 2001 C2 Cab it was a standard battery available at Radio Shack. Instructions are in a TSB (available on this site) that includes directions about how to restart the key's processor in case you have a problem. It took me 5 minutes the first time. No programming needed.

I get a noise too, like a series of tones. I only get it if I turn off the car with the radio playing an AM station. The tones run their little tune until the radio shuts off. Very weird. (no cell phone here either).

Did you have a cell phone with you in the car when you heard the noise?

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No!! :(

The weird part is that if I lock the car with remote, the noise will go away.

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I have a 2001 Cab with the CDR220 radio head. When I am listening to AM radio and turn the car off I get a weird series of tones over the speakers. It runs for a few seconds until the stereo powers off. I wasn't getting this a month ago and I have no idea what the issue might be. Any thoughts?

qcp - did you try testing to see if you have an air leak around the throttle air intake? Its is easy to track down and from recent board experience, it is a fairly common issue...

My light is back on only after maybe 50 miles and 3 days worth of driving  :censored:

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I spent 3 months on the trail of my P1128 before we found the air throttle intake leak. And I've put over 1,000 miles on it without recurrence, where I used to get the CEL every 100-200 miles. Since we discovered the fix, I've seen 3 or 4 others who had the same problem and fix. Seems like a design flaw that it can loosen up, but its easy to check, so I suggest giving it a try.

Try spraying the throttle air intake with carburetor cleaner while the engine is running to see if there is an air leak. Several of us have had P1128 CELs that were correctly by tightening that. Spraying carburetor cleaner was how I tracked it down on my vehicle. Good luck.

You are welcome. And I hope it stays off!

My mechanic did the work so I can't guide you specifically. But I am sure that Loren or another member can...

If you do a search for P1128 you'll find lots of information. I had the same problem and after a long process finally resolved it by tightening the throttle air intake bolts.

Sorry, no photos as the work was done by a local mechanic. He used carburetor cleaner to locate the leak and then verify that it was fixed - maybe that will work for you.

Also, I assume that you searched the site for whatever code you are getting, as there is a wealth of info. Good luck.

Just came back from a trip and I put 400 miles on the car.  No check engine light, so I am hopeful we found the issue.  For those who have get an P1128 (or the equivalent for the other cylinders), this might give one more item to investigate as a root cause.

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Just came back from a trip and I put 400 miles on the car. No check engine light, so I am hopeful we found the issue. For those who have get an P1128 (or the equivalent for the other cylinders), this might give one more item to investigate as a root cause.

I've been tracking down an elusive P1128 Check Engine code for a few months. It comes on occasionally, and indicates that cylinders 1-3 are too lean and the DME cannot adjust for it. We've checked more items that I can list, but yesterday we found a small intake leak on the throttle body (mechanic found it by spraying carburetor cleaner on the body!). The odd part is that the leak was on the opposite set of cylinders than where I get the CEL.

Hopefully this was the underlying problem. If not then I have no choice but to try the dealer over the winter...