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About trauh

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  • From
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2001 911 C2 Cab US

trauh's Achievements


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  1. Took it back to the shop that orinigally replaced the rear window. They corrected it; I think they restretched the fabric top into position, where I think it is held in place by adhesive (not 100% sure). It definitely was not a mechancial issue that I could have fixed.
  2. I had the plastic rear window on my 2001 cab replaced two years ago and I just noticed that at the front, left edge of the top it does not meet the plastic trim properly. Looking at the photo you will see the fabric top is lifted slightly above the trim at that front, left edge. Can anyone tell me if this is something I can correct myself, or do I need to trek back to the shop that replaced the rear window? I'm hoping it is just a few screws to move the trim or top back into place... Thanks.
  3. The plastic rear window in my 2001 cab was delaminating. I got a referral to a local auto upholstery vendor for replacement, and $450 dollars later it looks perfect. The window is brand new (old one was scratched and opaque) and I washed the car this week to verify no leaks. If anyone else is having this delamination problem, this is a very acceptable solution.
  4. Theory #2 was exactly correct. They found excess sealant in the bottom (head must have been opened by the prior owner before I bought the car in 2004) had clogged an opening as you described. They are cleaning out and resealing the head. I just made another donation to the site in appreciation of all the help I received. Thank you again for sharing your experience.
  5. They replaced two of the green plugs (one was out, one was seated badly), but they blew back out after running the car for a few minutes. Any suggestions?
  6. Bingo! - it was one of those plugs, as you suggested. They are going to replace and test. And guesses as to what might cause one of those plugs to blow out?
  7. Early report is valve cover and one plug (not spark plug, sounds like something in the head maybe). That came from the service advsior; waiting to talk with the mechanic to review cost (and underlying cause).
  8. It was leaking steady with engine running, so it was picked up today. $125 to get it towed 15 miles. Cost to repair: Stay tuned.
  9. I check fluids. Coolant is fine. So is brake fluid. Nothing showed on the oil dipstick so i started the engine to let it warm up. The drip immediatley started and I took a photo (attached). Turned the engine right off and still got no mearurement on the dipstick. Guess its an oil leak. At 29K miles. Darn it. So should I flat bed it or add oil and make the 15 mile drive to my mechanic?
  10. I'll take a look at fluid resovoirs and report what I find. I was hesitant to start the engine to warm the oil to check, but the consensus seems to be that would be OK sincex the ngine was runnign just fine when this occured. Thanks. 2001 Cab, manual. 29K miles.
  11. I pulled into the garage last night from a road trip and noticed a leak from the right side in the rear. It looks like a rusty, brownish/yellowish fluid. My mechanic is out of town for a week, so I'm trying to decide what to do. I opened the engine compartment and didn't see anything obvious (no fluid spary of blown hose). Any advice as to how to narrow this down so I can decide if its safe to start the engine and drive it in for repair? I did drop some newspaper down, and it looks to be just a cup or so of liquid. Again, any advice appreciated. T
  12. I have a 2001 cab with a three spoke carbon fiber steering wheel. The top carbon fiber section has a crack running along it. Does anyone have any experience with this, in terms of either repairing or replacing it?
  13. You might want to test that your alarm horn works. They frequently fail... The remotes are new, replaced when the new alarm control was replaced, so I assume the batteries are new too. But I'll try new ones anyway. I'm now getting double flashes, that I thought meant there was something open, but no horn beep. The range of the remotes has always been really short. Ten feet at best. Might have to try the range mod. Tom
  14. Found the issue - there was corrosion on the plug that connects to the engine compartment fan. Cleaned it off and it works fine, but... It does not solve my problem. The coolant continues to skyrockets up to 101-105*C when I am in traffic (30 mph or slower) or standing still (normally runs around 95*C when moving on the highway). I have verified that both the low and high speed radiator fans do work, so I am thinking that I need to remove the front bumber and check that the radiators are not blocked with crude. Any other suggestions?
  15. Thanks 1999Porsche911. I pretty much did that, except the car was not running (key was in the ON position). I will retry that at home tonight. When I tried, I got no voltage reading at the fan connector (nothing with sensor connected or disconnected). I'll report back if I find anything new tonight. Thank you again. You can test the circuit by warming up the car and then pulling the 2 wire connector off the sensor. Fan should start immediately and then stop when reconnected. If it does not start, disconnect the connector at the fan and test for voltage when the sensor is not connected. If there is voltage, problem is fan motor....if no voltage, then fan is fine and fault is either fuse or harness. It would NOT be the sensor.
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