Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

kpl

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    36
  • Donations

    $0.00 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About kpl

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.kevinlaird.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    SF Bay Area, CA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2011 911 Turbo S

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. is it 99634901003? and is the same part used on the turbo? Thanks,
  2. Driving for more than 10 mi. didn't do it. I was hoping for more "tech" in an answer, but anyway it's fixed. After reading various forums I came up with a list of things to check and did the following: Disconnected the battery and put it on a charger. While the car was starting up fine, I had been working on the drivers side window mechanism the day before, running it up and down a lot. I also pulled out the front ABS wheel sensors and sprayed them down with brake cleaner, and did the same with the ABS rings. I also wiped off the electrical plugs and really made sure they were plugged in tight.
  3. digging up this old thread as after changing the inner and outer tie rods and strut bearing on my C4S, and getting it aligned (not at the dealer) I now have the PSM and ABS lights on. Why would only the AWD cars possibly need the angle sensor realigned? I'm just trying to understand how this system works, thanks. I've never had any issues with alignments previously.
  4. Thanks! Which cat is considered "bank 1"? I got a check engine light P0420, swapped the O2's side to side, and the same code came back, so it's got to be the cat.
  5. Great how to. I took off the instrument cluster to better get to the 10mm bolt. It's held on with 2 screws, one behind the hazard switch, and one behind the small circular screen on the far left of the cluster. I had a lot of trouble getting the key cylinder back in. I had to use a bit of force pressing it in, for it to finally lock back in (it'll make a small click sound). Sunset has the assembly (lock and switch) for $138 now, part #996-347-017-07.
  6. Seems like I get a different results on different parts house websites. What are the part numbers for the 02 sensors? I might as well get the numbers for the cats too in case they are shot. Thanks for your help,
  7. Here are 2 videos of it working. 1 2 Seems like it doesn't know when to stop, or go back the other way, when tilting.
  8. The plastic side curtains look good. I found that by disconnecting the battery and recoonnecting would temporilary fix it. It'll work fine for a bit, but it's memory won't last very long. It seems to lift up too far at times, make a clunck, and jump forward and 1/8" or so. Other times it works ok, but won't respond when pressing any buttons, then it'll work again.
  9. I was getting ready to test the switch with a volt meter to see if that was the problem, got distracted for a few hours with something else, and left the ignition on and drained the battery. To my surprise after charging the battery back up the sunroof works just fine after a reset. So if the reset does not work for you, try disconnecting the battery to reboot the whole car before digging into it further.
  10. I can use those instructions also. Mine was acting funky for a few weeks, having to press buttons repeatedly to get it to do what I wanted, until while closing the sunroof it made a pop sound and now will no longer slide back and forth, but will still tilt. I reset it according to the instructions but that didn't help. Do you know where I can get my hands on these pages so that I can see what I'm up against. I'm willing to try the repair myself, as long as the information is clear, and no special tools or tricks are needed.
  11. what's the procedure for draining, refilling, and bleeding the power steering fluid? I searched and couldn't find one. thanks,
  12. nope, not the same sound, besides the sound of the air pump doesn't change with RPM does it
  13. it's never, ever, been that loud before...I know what that normally sounds like and this isn't it, unless it's changed it's tune very significantly and gotten 50x louder. What do they sound like when they die?
  14. I only noticed this sound recently, kinda like a gear drive or blower. I've never heard this before, or since. It occurred a handfull of times, when we had short breaks between autocross runs, and was coming from the engine compartment. It didn't do it earlier in the day, when it was perhaps cooler and we had longer breaks between runs. You can hear it in this video. http://www.vimeo.com/16012043 It only started at the end of a run and was dependend upon engine RPM, and not dependent upon the car moving. It went away after about a minute or two. It didn't last long enough for me to park and pop the hood and maybe get a better idea of where it was coming from. When I got home I took the accessory belt off to check the idler pulleys, alternator, etc. and they all felt fine. I replaced an idler pulley quite some time ago, which sounded a lot different (loud screeching, bearing self destructing sound) when it needed replacing. Any ideas?
  15. For those do it yourselfers try this: remove the electrical connectors to the oil pressure sending unit, clean the connections, reinstall after adding a glob of dielectric grease to each contact on the sender. Wipe a little of that same grease on the connectors after you snap them back together. Worked for me. I take it as an oversight on Porsche's part that these connectors are not sealed from the elements.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.