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logray

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Posts posted by logray

  1. I would not email Jake, I have seen him say he will sell these specs, but I have a feeling now he might not even do that because he is very close to publishing his engine M96 bible, which may have those specs included?

    Anyhow, in the mean time you can get some of those specs here, starting on page 19...

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/file/1657-after-sales-training-911-carrera-boxster-cayman-engine-repairpdf/

    It doesn't list tolerances but I would go to a good machine shop. Any good shop should be able to check one journal and bore against the next and compare.

    Or I guess another way to put it, what are their measurements? Any one measurement totally different from the rest/etc.

  2. Another problem here with a 1998 year car is the DME version 5.2.2 pinouts do not match a 996 2000 version 7.2 DME pinouts.

    So the DME will not fit, the harness and pinouts are totally different.

    You need to keep the same DME version.

    For a 996, model year 1998 through 1999 have the DME 5.2.2 which would match a 986 1998 model year (even if you've made the mods to adapt a 3.4L 996 into your Boxster).

    I would keep looking for a complete set of keys, alarm, and DME if you don't want to do any reprogramming or extensive rewiring.

  3. I would be very surprised to see a metal coolant pipe worn through like that, perhaps it is leaking down from somewhere else.

    The AOS is in that area and is much more common, either due to the AOS cracking or the rubber hoses deteriorating/scuffing/clamps/not tightened enough.

    99610622554 is the bleed vent to radiator in the front of the car.

    I think you mean the other end of the coolant bleed vent line #13 in the diagram below (99610668159), since that is the only small coolant hard pipe in the vicinity of your leak. One end goes to the top of the radiators and the other end goes to the top of the coolant reservoir.

    http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/105-05.php

  4. Have you done a fuel pressure test? Although if it is only happening on number 6 I would be surprised if it is pressure related.

    Going back to Ahsai's post, when you reset codes on your MY 2000 car it should reset trims. I would focus on this, and if it were me swapping injectors would be next on my list (and compression check).

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31772-compression-test-diy

    The only other idea is that somehow resetting codes has something to do with variocam actuation. I've seen some strange things when a DME goes bad, and perhaps that is related. Although bad variocam should throw random misfires on the entire bank.... but I have seen bad variocam not throw misfires, so perhaps you just have a co-related problem with #6. The reason being you said rough idle... fuel trims would need to be really out of whack for that to happen.

    Have you read out your fuel trims (FRA/TRA) and compared them with the setpoints? (WHEN the problem is happening or engine is running rough or has 30+ miles on battery reset)

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38219-acceptable-rough-running-values/#entry202255

  5. If the MAF is good then don't replace it. MAFs can be tested using a multimeter.

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40768-possible-maf-issue-wiats-reading-high/?hl=%2Bmaf+%2Bvoltage+%2Bohm#entry216461

    Generally speaking you also don't replace the AOS unless it is failing, or you track the car and are doing preventative maintenance. There is a definitive test you can perform to determine if the AOS is failing or failed, by testing crankcase pressure:

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/255-an-inexpensive-way-to-test-for-a-bad-aos

    If the shop is checking the radiators they should just clean them, that should be done regularly on these cars since they tend to scoop up and accumulate junk.

    If they are checking the throttle body they should just clean it, it only takes a few minutes, and is as easy as changing and air filter.

  6. You are certainly not the first person that has wanted to post these manuals, and some actually have, there are many other threads on renntech similar to the one you started. They are all locked and the offending material is always removed because it violates copyright law.

    There is a copyright notice contained in the manual you have.

    Secondly, why would a company sell this information and at the same time not copyright it and permit free distribution of it? If it was meant to be free in the first place, wouldn't Porsche just post it on their website for free? They don't by the way, and you have to buy the material here:

    https://techinfo2.porsche.com/techinfo/index.jsp

    Regarding "public domain"... from works published by a corporation there is no such thing.

    At least for US copyright...

    http://www.copyright.gov/help/faq/faq-duration.html

    How long does a copyright last?The term of copyright for a particular work depends on several factors, including whether it has been published, and, if so, the date of first publication. As a general rule, for works created after January 1, 1978, copyright protection lasts for the life of the author plus an additional 70 years. For an anonymous work, a pseudonymous work, or a work made for hire, the copyright endures for a term of 95 years from the year of its first publication or a term of 120 years from the year of its creation, whichever expires first.

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