logray

Interesting too that casper fell off of ebay...

I could be wrong, but the only low rolling resistance/mpg tires are generally very thin/narrow. These are words that don't describe a sport's cars requirement for performance tires.

+1 to poster who said keep on top of your pressures.

I've achieved 30MPG with my 996 and slightly overinflated tires, driving conservatively on the highway.

Orient did a great write up many years ago.

I've been using his method for many many years without any trouble and the car is very stable/sturdy.

The only modification I use on his procedure is instead of jacking the rear using the engine, I jack using the rear cross member.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/3404-putting-your-996986997987-up-on-jackstands/

Maybe this is too early to say, but to me it seems that the viability of the aftermarket bearing business will decline once the IMS solid bearing solution starts to take off.

15 ft lbs is ok, read the max specs for the smaller LNE retrofit option. Do not overtorque. Use an inch pound. T wrench.

Instead of buying a ramp for the rear wheels, I made some ramps using 2x8's from the lumber store to give clearance for the floor jack under the rear.

I use the same method as described above, works perfect. The jack in the center of the rear suspension member works great.

If you are just doing the repair outlined in your posts, you don't need to drain all the coolant out. And as a side note it's pretty much impossible to get all 6+ gallons out unless you completely take the whole car apart.

The airlift is only used for filling.

Just drain what is in the block and various hoses and then refill according to the uview directions and you'll be fine.

There are many write ups on how to use the uview here and also on rennlist. Example:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/301-996-complete-coolant-flush-diy/

Ahh yes, here we go:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/152-yet-another-installation-of-footwell-lighting/

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/9578-footwell-lighting-hack/

IIRC the FWL is an option, but not standard. It is possible to retrofit, and have seen a few write ups on this.

If yours is a C4S I would be more inclined to think it was an included option.

Nice work.

For the spring clamp you recycled (sounds like a couple times), I recommend going in and replacing that soon if it's not too difficult for you. Once you "unspring them" a couple times they lose their spring and have a tendency to start making the connection weep.

I prefer the high quality stainless worm style clamps myself, even though some say a fresh spring clamp might be better because it expands and contracts with heat expansion. Hogwash!

LOL, nanogains.

Or perhaps the "old fashioned way" of disconnecting the speaker?

So then... isn't it fair to say that if you had the new 996 Bentley you have good procedures on the M96.03 heads.

Then if you have the old 3.4L workshop manual you have good procedures for the case (because the 3.6L and 3.4L are pretty much the same inside, aside from some measurements).

With that combo one should have a good set of instructions for complete M96.03 disassembly/reassembly.

With the current alternatives being going to Jake's class, buying the pages one by one, or buying a used set of workshop manuals that cover the M96.03 engine (i have seen the older sets floating around, but very few of the newer ones).

I'll keep an eye out for that JFP.

Logan, I've tried setting up an account at the Porsche website, I can't get in. I've been trying through the USA link, I'm in Canada, it won't let me in. I've even tried on two different computers thinking the security settings might be holding me back but no luck.

They don't have a link for Canadians so Porsche must not need our buisness.

I haven't forgotten about Jakes course, time for me will be a factor, his book would be great if it could be had now.

Sorry I haven't bought stuff from that site yet. There are RT.org members who have though... maybe they could be of more assistance.

While there is an entire section dedicated to engine removal; there is relatively little depth on engine disassembly or assembly.

Is there stuff about the internals of the head at least?

The description lists this:

"Step-by-step engine and cylinder head removal and installation."

If you're removing the head, that certainly implies things like using lock/hold down tools, proper engine rotation/etc.

But I guess there is no "engine disassemble and reassemble" chapter listed huh.

Aside from the Porsche website I gave you where you can buy pages from the official workshop manual here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41726-wiring-diagram-for-996-turbo/?p=223332

I'm aware of only two other options:

1.) Attend Jake Raby school. The next one is in June

http://www.flat6innovations.com/classes/engine-rebuild-school

2.) Wait for Jake to release his engine bible. He had been reportedly working on it over the winter and last I heard was close to releasing it. Edit: here is the link where he talked about releasing it "this year":

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/743556-3-4-to-3-6-conversion-2.html

Could also be a lifter problem

And also do the compression and leak down numbers show OK? I noticed you mention plugs show normal wear, so just asking.

I would go back and complain to the service manager. Those prices are outrageous.

$200 for a battery?

Shop towels? Seriously???

They are charging you full price plus margin for parts

If they don't do anything, I would file a complaint with PCNA.

I would suspect one of three things:

Your passenger compartment fan/sensor is clogged or malfunctioning. You can remove it from the small compartment behind the circular looking grill looking thing on the right side of the dash in front of the passenger seat. Then try to clean it.

Your outside temperature sensor is malfunctioning. Sometimes they just need to be replaced.

The A/C control panel is malfunctioning. There have been reports of these going haywire, and many times replacement is the only cure.

Thanks for the follow up post. This definitely is in line with what has been reported previously.

Great work!

Expanding upon JFP's post, a few things regarding the AOS and intermix

oil in coolant theoretically possible = NO

coolant in oil theoretically possible = YES

1.) From the immovable RFM...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38721-smoking-2001-996-convertibe-aos/#entry210285

2.) Since watching this and other forums since 2005 I have never actually read of an intermix caused by AOS, only by oil cooler or head crack (the latter being most commonly reported).. Not saying it hasn't happened, considering as JFP points out water does flow through the AOS, but perhaps raising the possibility yours is not the exception to the norm.

To help diagnose this issue further, perhaps you could post some pics of your oil and coolant in order to steer this thread in the next direction.

Cheers all! :)

That feature is not available for your model year, and you wouldn't want to attempt to retrofit an older model binnacle into yours.

If your car suffered from intermix, and you thought it was the AOS, chances are it is going to be a result of a failed oil cooler or crack in one of the heads and not the AOS.

+1 for wet coils