minny

Hi,

I need to change my front and rear brakes (pads and rotars according to the local Porsche dealer that did a recent service). My dad and I have a car shop with a lift so I plan to do it myself. Although I lifelong fan of Porsche I have limited technical knowledge. I purchased a 2001 C4 in January. My question is what do I need to do a full change for the brakes. Any help is much appreciated.

When I did mine, I replaced the pads, discs, the damping plates (4 in total for the front, 8 in total for the rears) and I needed 2 wear sensors as my front pads had worn right down to them and I couldn't remove them without damage. Interesting thing is that Porsche instructions advise changing the caliper bolts but the official Porsche centres here don't do that so I reused my caliper bolts.

My information comes from the Porsche DME 7.8/OBD II service manual for MY2002 996 Carrera.

Where are you getting your information?

Its from the fault code reader. I should have looked up the service manual that I have to cross-check the code. Just goes to show how lazy one can become when presented with tools that give you extra features like code definitions. Doesn't mean that they are always right.

Mine definitely says P2096 Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean, P2098 Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean

My friend's 2002 ROW C2 Manual Cab had its CEL come on yesterday evening. On my fault code reader, it read P2096 and P2098 which is the Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 and 2 System Too Lean code respectively. It would be pretty unlucky to have both lambda sensors fail together especially only 1 year and 10000 miles ago he had all 4 replaced by the Porsche centre. Could it be the MAF? I've cleared the code and it hasn't returned so far.

Also, on the same day he was driving, the interior lights came on by themselves and then later when he parked the car, as he was walking away, the roof folded itself. Obviously not good on the street. Its now done that twice. All control units under both seats are dry. Any ideas?

+1 on keeping an eye out on the waterpump. Sorry minny, i wasn't trying to critizise you. I just shudder when I see people drop thousands of dollars on repairs that one can do themselves...especially with the help of loren and team renntech:) Again, good work on the preventative maint...you've covered alot of bases and it's good to have confidence in knowing the state of components in your car.

Didn't think you were being critical so no worries. I do a lot of the work myself anyway except for the heavy work like replacing wheel bearings or trying to remove the starter. I'm lucky as there is a very good independent I use who doesn't charge too much and is happy to provide technical support as the bonus is that he is the tech guy for my region of the Porsche Club in the UK. That doesn't happen too often.

What year and how many miles, minny? I knew the water pumps were a 75kish item, but the starter & alternators are news to me. Already did the coolant tank.

Mine is a '99 C2 Tiptronic. If you do search on this forum and a couple of others, alternators and starters can give trouble. It's probably a bit like the worry about the engine going ballistic, there are a few that go wrong but gets reported more often. However, in a few buyer's guide they also mentioned both as potential failures. Then again, it probably applies to any 10 year old car depending on its use. As I do house calls daily, I can start my car up to 20 times a day hence the decision to refurbish the starter ( and to change the oil and filter every 6 months regardless of mileage). As for the alternator, mine would start off reading 14v then drop to 12.5 v when the car is warmed up. To be fair, it has been so for 2 years and the battery has been kept up to charge.

I believe in preventative maintenance to a point. I replaced belts and hoses, pads and rotors, flush the brakes, flush the fuel system, etc. However, I draw the line at replacing parts like the AOS, starter, alternator, etc. just because they're getting up there in age. Having installed alternators and power steering pumps (not on a Porsche, which seems to have hardier parts, but still) that are bad right off the shelf, I believe that with replacement parts it's just as much risk that the new part will go bad within the same time period that the old part would have lasted through. Except now, instead of just paying once or fixing something once, you're spending the time and money to fix it multiple times.

I have 115k miles on my starter, AOS and all my fuel components. No problems yet.

The only part that I'd make an exception on is the water pump. It went bad at 107k miles, so from now on I will change water pumps in all my cars every 100k to be on the safe side.

I'm in no way saying you're bad to freshen things up. I just see it as an unecessary expense.

To be fair, preventative maintenance can be taken to far but on the 996, the starter, alternator, coolant tank are all known weak spots. My car was running great but since I was getting the wheel bearings done and I was away for a week, I told the indy to do the other jobs. Thing was he kept all the old parts for me and the tank was just starting to leak, the brushes on the alternator were worn, the voltage regulator was becoming tired and the brushes on the starter were just about to give up completely. I also changed the lambda sensors as most cars I have when they reach about 70-100k miles, although still working ok, they are switching a lot more slowly. I thought about changing the dampers, lower wishbones, control arms, drop links, ARB bushes then wised up as the car is still handling fine. Don't get me wrong I'm sure it would have been a lot tighter if I had replaced all those but had to draw the line somewhere. Basically preventative maintenance should be carried out in items that potentially can leave you stranded. Obviously this is just my take on it. Good point about the water pump as I find most start to leak around 90 - 100k miles or not long after.

My'99 C2 has 70 k miles and was running fine except for a very slight whine from the back so had both wheel bearings changed. At the same time it was in I had the coolant tank and coolant replaced, the starter and alternator refurbished and it made a hell of a difference. When the tank was out, there was slight staining at the back indicating the start of a leak. My voltmeter now reads 14v rock steady instead of 12.5v and when cranking the engine, it now whirrs quickly rather than the laboured affair that used to occur. Also had both lambda sensors replaced recently even though there was no CEL. As for Ben, I plan to change the MAF soon. It does take a bit to keep the car running sweetly but the work minimises the risk the car will leave you stranded.

Thanks for all the inputs. This is my 2nd week being an owner of this car.

Though I have most of the receipts from previous owner, I am still in cautious mode right now.

After all, there are risks buying a 10 years old car especially an early model of 996.

Anyway, I will closely monitor all fluid level.

It is a C4 cab. so unlikely sunroof drain.

Probably the sunroof drain.

I drive a 10 year old early model 996. :drive:

I also have a 10 year old C2. 72k miles and going well. :)

I thought VW/Audi have now switched to G12 Plus Plus (purple instead of pink) since 2006. The older G12 was an OAT product and from the specs the G12 Plus Plus is a HOAT (hybrid OAT) one that has some silicates with the OAT component. VW says it is fully compatible. As above I suspect that the pink G12 is the same as the Porsche stuff. They even smell the same. The G12 Plus PLus smells different.

Did you find a solution to your problem? i have the same problem and i am interested to know how you sorted it out???

thanks

Rear wheel bearings both replaced which helped the noise. There is still a faint whine off throttle about 40-45mph and it could be tyres or early worn diff although you would expect to hear more with a worn diff. Happy with car at present.

My'99 C2 Tip had the original 17s on with Continental SportContact 2 tyres and it rode well. The steering was more talkative and sensitive. The car was also more adjustable on the throttle. I upgraded to 18s with Continental tyres again purely for cosmetic reasons and the trade off was the steering becoming a bit numb and the secondary ride poorer. However, it still rides well compared to other performance cars. Outright grip is also slightly better but you really have to be pushing it to feel the difference. Proabably not noticable on a day to day basis.

Thanks

Already tried that,

I'll just try harder! I've already mangled it a bit, otherwise my plan B is as Ashai suggests.

Thanks

Darrin Smith

Even with the screwdriver technique, be careful the screen doesn't shoot upwards as mine did splashing everything with brake fluid. MIne still looked a bit mangled using the 2 screwdrivers.

Use two small screwdrivers (those you use on eye glasses). Place them 180 degree (facing each other) and pry between the filter and the neck of the reservior.

As above but be careful as mine shot upwards with brake fluid splashing everywhere. Put some tissue around the filler hole and a clear piece of plastic over when you do it.

The CV boot goes over the constant velocity joint (CV joint) at the end of the driveshaft. There is an inner CV and outer CV joint. The CV boot is the rubber bit that looks like a bellow.

My'99 C2 Tip also had a tick like you described. It was at the right bank that was present all the time. Soft in volume (like a screwdriver tapped against the head) but speeded up as you revved the engine Spoke to all the specialists and they figured it was a lazy lifter. Left the car in to be serviced and it turned out to be a sightly loose spark plug. I fix cars myself but this one was new to me and the specialist including the main dealer. Anyway, happy ending as there was no damage to the head.

My '99 C2 Tip is fantastic. Bought it with 60 k miles and now has 70k. 10k trouble free miles, daily driver and serviced twice in year. Enjoy the car if you buy it.

Thanks again, will take it t indy to get it looked at.

Thanks guys, there's definetely no movement trying to rock the wheel and there is no rumbling when spinning the wheel. Will listen out for the inner cv joint. Funny I did think it was the tyres (3mm left) so I changed them, actually got new tyres and new 18 inch Sport Design wheels to replace original 17s but it made no difference. Will try the lug nut temp test later. I do think its early days of worn wheel bearings.

Recently in my '99 C2 Tip, when in 5th at about 35 - 45 mph (low rpm) and coasting with no throttle, I noticed the slightest of a whine from the rear. Its like a soft woo sound. I don't think its transmission noise as I manually shift down to 4th and 3rd and there is no change in the pitch. I don't hear it any other time. Its no worse cornering. I jacked the car up and there is no rumble from any wheel when I spin them. Maybe its my imagination but could it be the start of my wheel bearings?

Pity I'm in the UK though

Thanks Loren, Sport Designs are the way to go. I can get refurbished ones in the UK with N tyres for £1800. Replicas are only £400 cheaper and not truly identical.

I am looking to put 18 inch Sport Design wheels on my car. As new ones are no longer available from Porsche UK would anyone have any suggestions whether I should go for refurbished original ones or new replica ones made by RH of Germany? They are supposed to be the same weight.

Hi Joost,

it seems to be the voltage regulator.

If the battery can be loaded via external loader, it should be OK.

Voltage regulator is a small budget part (aprox. 30$) i would give this a try first (alternator= 500$).

My first post here is a DIY for this issue, i had the same probs a few weeks ago.

CU

André

Can someone point me to the diy voltage regulator replacement post? I searched but can't find it.

Put it on the PST2 or Durametric to make sure the Lambda sensors are working fine. My car had the same symptoms and I did what you did with no improvement. There was no CEL and a OBD Scan showed no faults. The Durametric, however picked up 1 Lambda sensor wasn't working at full tilt. Cleared the fault but it returned so I renewed both. Took 15 minutes. Reset the ECU to make sure the fuel trims were starting from scratch. Idle now rock steady.