minny

Thanks guys, always amazes me the amount of information available on Renntech

I previously posted about my Tiptronic gearchange being slightly jerky and sometimes its as if the ignition is not momentarily retarded during the change. Although no CEL present, on the durametric it picked up one of my O2 sensors was impaired so I changed both and the gearchange is much smoother. Obviously the affected fuel trims were affecting power and the retarding of the ignition during a gearchange. I would like to know if anyone has any information on the short term and long term fuel trims at idle so that I can see if my MAF is working at optimum state. Also what should the load be at idle which should indicate the state of the MAF. If not I might clean it or replace it. I've read the threads on cleaning it but some have advised against it in case it gets damaged. At least with the parameters I can see what the engine is doing before I do anything. My car now has no recorded codes but I've had others where the O2 sensor and MAF have been dodgy but still working enough for a CEL not to light. I live in UK where the ECU is less sensitive to emission issues than USA i.e less likely to light the CEL initially.

My car had the same problem and i changed the ignition switch as suggested by everyone. The instructions and Audi part number are on the forum. Its not the whole lock barrel/assembly, just the Audi plastic switch at the end. No special tools needed, just some patience and under an hour of your time. You don't need new keys as you are not changing the lock barrel. £27 for the switch from Audi in the UK. Porsche charge to change the whole assembly which is so much more expensive and takes forever hence the cost.

Thank you Tool Pants. Answers my question exactly. At least I know the 9.6v I read is normal and not some short circuit.

My '99 C2 Tip's alarm has been working fine, but when changing the car battery I noticed something strange. The horn next to the battery on the offside was buzzing slightly. I disconnected the connectors to the horn and tested the voltage which read 9-10v all the time. The horn sounded normally when I applied 12v through it. When I left the horn disconnected and armed the alarm, it rightly sensed a fault and the led flashed twice every few seconds. When I reconnected the horn, all was well when arming it. My worry is the 9-10v going through the horn all the time and would it flatten the battery. Is this normal or is this how the alarm system senses the horn is connected or not. I would appreciate if anyone out there has the same car would connect a volt meter to the connectors of this horn to see if they have the same phenomenon. Thanks

I used the Esso LT 71141 fluid and the Durametric software detected no faults. Like I said, its only when stone cold when the box is slightly jerky when the lockup clutch engages in 2nd or changing from 2nd to 3rd.

we did actually do that as the first time, it was filled, it was above it and hence under filled... i drove about 30 miles and realised things gears were slipping... the indy then rechecked it with the temp below 40 degrees and it needed another litre of fluid...

I want to check with those with a Tiptronic box. My '99 C2 Tip is running fine except first thing in the morning when stone cold, when the lock-up clutch engages in 2nd or changing to 3rd, the box is just slightly jerky i.e the gear change is obvious. This only occurs the first half a mile or so. All the other gear changes are smooth and from slightly warm onwards it is very smooth. My car has 67k miles and I just had the fluid and filter changed by an indy. It was black as your boot and the Durametric software used to get the tranny temperature when filling showed no problems. Its probably nothing but just wanted to see if others have the same experience.

I got my modified mufflers from Oettle on Ebay for my '99 3.4 Tip. They use a 1 inch pipe I think. Best £350 I've spent. Sounds exactly like the original PSE. Not excessively loud below 2500rpm but gosh does it sing after. With the money saved, got new twin pipe tips for my car so now it sounds and looks good!

Thank you

I want to check the radiator fan relays and i know its in the driver's footwell but where. I've searched the forum and still am none the wiser. Sorry for ignorance. Mine is a '99 C2 Tiptronic (RHD).

I bought the ScanGauge as my '99 C2 wasn't specced with the computer. The information provided is useful. I have a separate Actron OBD2 gauge. Haven't needed to buy the Durametric software.

i've posted before about my running temperature... i use an obd meter to get a digital readout of my running temperature... in slow moving heavy town traffic, the needle creeps on the outer edge of the 0 (of 80)... the obd meter reads 93-95 degrees celcius... when the traffic speeds up to about 30-40 mph, the needle moves to the inner edge of the 0 and the obd meter reads 88-90 degrees celcius... at 70 mph the temp is 86-88 degrees... i am trying to find out if i'm running hot... some say yes, some say no

Sorry! Forgot the important details. Its a 1999 C2 Tiptronic based in the U.K

Does anyone know at what temperature the coolant thermostat starts to open and what temperature it is fully open?

porsche chargers are made by ctek who also supply to ferrari, aston martin and mercedes... buying the ctek one at half the price is not scrimping on quality, just shopping smart by buying the same charger for less

point is that n rating SHOULD NOT affect insurance whatsoever but if the unfortunate happens, they can use the argument that other tyres have not been tested by porsche and is therefore a modification... you know what they are like...

my passenger seat tilt mechanism is playing up and causing grief... when i lift the release handle, i have to force it up a few extra mm to get the seat to tilt... only one handle works... the other one just moves up and down without doing anything... how can i get at the mechanism to have a look... the cables/levers inside have probably lengthened/broken... anyone with any previous experience or photos would help me greatly...

i will probably go for the contis... wanted to use goodyear eagle f1 assymetrics which have won various independent tests in Evo and Car magazine but they are not N rated and i'm sure some insurance nitpicker will notice them should the unfortunate happen... contis on other cars of mine have good wet grip which is important

with all my other cars, i use continentals or bridgestone tyres... everyone rates the conti sportcontact2 or michelin ps2 on porsches... what about the bridgestone s02 or s02a... anyone with any experience of them... heard they are quieter than the other 2 but what about mileage and more importantly wet grip and braking?..

noise now sorted... booked into belfast opc for major service and told them to have a look... turned out a spark plug was slightly loose... new plugs in and no damage done... all running smoothly now... engine sounds great again

will leave the wynns additive out then... i hope the oil change will help it as it sounds like 1 sticky lifter but would hate it if there was damage being done as i keep driving...

thanks... will try that first... any risk it is causing damage?.. it is only a light tick tick tick noise at present... may consider some wynns hydraulic lifter additive to see if it helps...

anyone have any close up photos of the child seat deactivation device fitted?..

just got my 1st 996, a 60k miles '99 model and its a brilliant car... got it inspected by a specialist before i got it... when i drove it home, i noticed the engine was slightly tappety... its a very light tap at idle that speeds up as i rev and don't really hear it above 2500 rpm... never really goes away throughout the journey... can't hear it from inside... its it normal for these engines to sound like that... i thought the hydraulic lifters should be quiet...