kezcapt

Most aftermarket exhausts have bungs pre-installed. If this is the case then just go on ebay and get the stainless extensiontubes. It's a threaded metal tube with a restricted orifice at one end. Less exhaust reaches the sensor so the sensor stays within range. You can only use this for the "after cat" O2 sensors. If you try this with the "before cat", the ecu will freak out and not know how to compute fuel/Air ratios. Lastly, you need to check heat shield clearance with your current setup. The extension will by definition reduce this space. They sell an angled extension for these situations. I use the angled extensions and the car is very happy. No CELS at all. You can , as some have mentioned, plug the bung and hang the sensors with a cable tie but my setup is much cleaner and protects the sensor for future use. Good Luck. Rob

Problem solved: It turned out that the change over valve (aka N75) was faulty. It was failing, pressurizing (pushing) the waste gate open and thus allowing only .4 bar boost. (the spring pressure default). I know the most common reason for the boost problem is a boost leak (or DV) but, like I said in my original intro, the system was tested and was tight as a drum. Thanks to Loren for trying to help. The interesting take away is that the N75 can malfunction without throwing a code. In my case the valve was not "dead as a doornail" but it was close. If you want a good diag tool for your tool box then get (2) 3.5" rubber couplings and (2) 3" pvc caps to make yourself a pressure test kit.. Connect at the turbine inlet with a few basic connections (i.e. air hose quick connect) and a gauge if you want. The main feature should be a pressure regulator on the air compressor (set to 10-14 psi). Some posts advise to pressurize the intake manifold inlet rather than the turbine inlet. This is pointless from a number of perspectives but the main objection is that it does not re-create the actual operating condition which is to pressurize the induction side of the system. You could say it will test the Dv's but there are more efficient ways to do this. Pressurizing the system is not rocket science folks. Lastly, some posts say that you should pressurize to 1.8 bars (25psi). This is also pointless unless you are running some kind of race setup. Again, the objective is to re-create real world conditions. For most of us that means .8 to 1 Bar. There is even a youtube video if you need a video example. In summary, pressurizing the system is cheap and easy to do. Just don't make more problems for yourself by deviating from the basic objective of re-creating the basic operating conditions. I hope this helps.

Thanks Loren, I pressurized the system and checked with soapy water but there were no leaks. Can you recommend a preferred method to test the DV's?

Hello All. I have a 2005 Turbo S with Bailey Dv's and stock DME. I noticed at some point that I was only making .4-.5 bar of boost. I checked with my Durametric and there were no codes. In fact, the car runs beautifully. I completed a 30,000 mile service two months ago and the car was running like a champ. I researched some posts and came up with a list of possible problems. The first thing I did was look for boost leaks with a leak test system. I pressurized to 1 Bar from the turbine inlet and the system was tight as a drum. I next tried to see if I could reset a possible limp mode by disconnecting the battery but no joy with that either. Lastly, I disconnected the MAF and tried to see if that was the problem but that did not restore boost either. I also ran the car with the durametric looking at boost and MAF values and the instrument cluster is giving correct readings. I am running out of Ideas! The only things I can think of are the DV's or the N75 controller. BTW I manipulated the wastegate levers and kept them in the loop for the pressure test. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Rob

well I replaced the injector and installed the Bailey DV's so I am back to a wiring problem. I tested the #1 fuel injector (driver's side at the back) and it had 12v with the key on. I am guessing it is either shorted or the DME is unhappy. I have a durametric coming in a couple of days. Anyone have a DME pinout so I can trace the wire? just knowing the color combo would be useful. Thanks

As I lack a manual, I would be interested in techniques for measuring the injector. Frankly, a swap is out of the question as the work to assemble the mess is well worth the money to replace the injector. Your input is always appreciated. Thanks.

Thank you again. Not an easy job but well worth the effort. Your prompt replies help a lot. It actually worked out for the best as the Bailey Dv's arrive Wednesday and the 30k service was due any way. I am a little distressed that the injector failed so quickly but the Kressieg exhaust keeps my right foot busy. Lastly, what is your opinion on the 5 bar pressure regulator upgrade? I am so into the rush of straight pipe acceleration I wonder about fuel delivery. Nevertheless it is a pleasure dealing with a rational, deliberate adviser. Many thanks. Rob

Hey Loren, I got everything exposed and the job, while not easy, was not particularly hard. My question is that you have seen a great deal of failures over the years. Do you think that I should replace all three injectors or just the offending one. if the failure rat id high then I might as well replace all 3. If it is rare then I will take my chances. the going has been tedious but using original parts has helped a lot. Thank you for your help. Of course the filter will be changed. Cheers, Rob

Thanks Loren, I knew I could count on you. I agree your approach is the next logical step. Is there a way to access the injector and associated harness without dropping the engine? I will do a search next. Thanks again!

Hello all, My 2005 996tt s has developed a problem that I may or may not have caused. I ran the car on a 600 mile trip and the car ran well. I got home and the next day ran a wire through the passenger side grommet in the engine bay. I started the car and now I get a P0201 and rough idle which is a fuel injector 1 open circuit. First, where is the DME located? I was under the Bose amp in the compartment where the harness is located. I wonder if I disturbed something. Also, while trying to fish the wire through the grommet i may have pierced a wire. I was using a piece of fishing leader wire that is very sharp. I stupidly did not disconnect the battery so I wonder if I shorted the circuit that way. It looks like the only wiring in the vicinity of this grommet (behind right rear lens) seems to be related to SAI pump which works well. So maybe all of my concern is for nothing but here is what I have: P0201, P0301 (related to the first when running above Idle) I Changed coils to upgraded 997 coils changed plugs to new Beru Fr6 Exact same OBD read outs after service I have the basic checklist for P0201 and it is as follows: P0201 Fuel Injector, Cylinder 1 – Open Circuit Possible fault cause ♦ Fuel injector (coil) open circuit ♦ Open circuit in wiring ♦ DME control module Maybe I am just being paranoid. Does anyone have a suggestion about how to proceed? I do not have a DME circuit diagram. Thanks in advance

Your installer can tell you but mine was removed without problem. I think the venture shield brand is the best. Apparently 3m agrees because they bought the company. Good Luck.

I agree. I may go with the hot battery lead to another RF switch. There are some new ones out there that activate at the Alternator coming on line. Nevertheless, I really appreciate your help. Rob.

Thanks Loren. Sorry, I should fill out my profile more completely. I have a 2005 Turbo S coupe.

Anyone know of a switched 12 volt source in the engine compartment? I have a pse type exhaust installed and just need 12 volt. The fan is two speed so only 7v is available until the engine is hot. Not a big problem but less than optimal. Thanks for the help.