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GatorGT3
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all repaired and after doing some additional work (replace break fluid, replace transmission fluid, replace radiator fluid, oil & filter change, replace oil pressure sending unit, new wipers, new horns, and RMS leak fix), final costs $2,400.
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thanks Loren. BTW, should I address the IMS bearing in any way since they will have access to it? I've read some threads about it failing (non-GT3 cars) and was wondering if some preventative measures are in order.
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Loren, he didn't say specifically. Does that sound right?
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update: just got a call from my mechanic and the source of the oil leak is the fly wheel seal. he is going to replace the seal and says the recommended fix is the non-GT3 seal. Says this is a common problem. Has to drop the tranny. Costs (including standard service, replacement of faulty oil pressure sensor, and repair of horn) is $1,800.00. Thanks for all the input.
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update: finally got to try to locate the source of the leak and although I could not determine the precise source of the leak, I have determined it is motor oil. just dropped it off today at my mechanic's shop and will update with the diagnosis. thanks for the input.
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How could I verify that? Is there something specific I could examine? Sounds like it is destine for the shop. Do you think I should have it trailered to the shop (2 hours away) or could I drive it? Thanks so much Loren.
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Loren, it definitely does not smell like oil. Can't really detect any "sweet" smell to it either. I pulled my dip stick and the color of my engine oil is a lot darker than the color of the fluid on the floor.
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Parked the GT3 after a couple of hours driving and several days later when I returned to the warehouse I had a small fluid drip on the floor. I did not do anything at that point because it did not look like oil, but over the next 3 months the spot got quite large. I would describe the fluid as a clear to yellow color which is not particularly slick. Has no smell. It does look like engine oil as there is no real color to it. However, it has a consistency which is probably thicker than coolant. It is coming from the center of the car just behind (to the rear) of the rear tires. I have no clue what it is but is definitely problematic. I attached photos of the issue. Thank you for any help.
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I have a 1986 911 3.2. Following the step by step instructions from Pelicanparts tech forum I adjusted the valves yesterday. Refilled the oil after changing the oil filter and cranked it up and everything looked and sounded good but shortly after started gushing oil from the fill tube. Turned the car off checked th oil level and it was way over the full mark. I had put in 10 quarts per instructions. Thinking I had over filled the oil I decided to address the issue today. Just went out and checked the oil level and there was 0 oil on the stick. I cranked the car and a massive amount of white smoke started coming out of the exhaust I turned the car off immediately. The oil level guage shows a full tank despite the car not being warmed up. Very worried I have done something to the car causing oil to get in the cylinder. Any body able to help with this major issue?
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Was driving the other day and when I went to shift into 5th gear, I could not get the gear. Then as I turned around to head home, I had trouble findig any gears. 3 years ago I installed a Wevo 915 gate shift kit which has performed flawlessly. I thought that something my have gone wrong with the kit, so I just completed removing the shift tower and there is nothing wrong with the shifter. However, there is about 2" of up and back play in the shifter tube and when you moveit it feels like it has come loose or something--feels like it is rubbing on threads or something. Any ideas what is going on? Thanks! One more thing...once a gear is selected, the shifter can move up and down excessively and movement gives feedback as if something is loose. Also makes a clanking noise which sounds like it is in the tube just behind the front seats. Diagnosed it. The back bushing had completely disingrated. How many shifts does one execute in 140000 miles? No wonder....
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Brakes, shocks, turbo tie rods, steering rack replaced at 130k. Suspension bushings replaced at 135K. Never touched the bearings. Noise is there without acceleration. How hard is it to replace bearings yourself? I did everything except the bushings myself without problems (probably took 5x longer than a porsche mechanic). thanks for the input.
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I own a 1986 Carrera which has 139k miles on body. I have replaced brakes, suspension compnents, and steering rack. Just the other day I heard (and felt) a vibration and/or squalling noise at vey low speed and only when I turn the wheel slightly to the left. My suspecion is that mt wheel bearings need attention. Any thoughts?
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Recently had a message come up on the display saying "display failure". I then noticed my oil pressure indicator was not working. Fearing a major oil system failure I immediately pulled the car over. At a stop the oil pressure indicator began working again. All systems checked out. When the car was turned off, the message was cleared from the display. This has happened only one other time. Car has 14 k on the odometer. Is this something I need to be concerned about?
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Mine does the same thing as well
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Just took the GT3 out for a run and was wondering if anyone else is having as much fun as I am owning one?
