bmohr

if you want something repainted, just mail in your gas door lid. They can better match the color than with codes alone. However if you just need a can of touch up paint then you are good with the codes.

beauar wrote:

i like your current rims much better than the turbo twist. If you do want to get these turbo twist rims...obviously make sure they are the right size. I think you have 19's right? I thought the turbo twist rims were usually 17,18 only

+1

you are a pioneer! Great work

do it. looks nice me thinks

i agree with Andy_M. My FOB stopped working a long time ago and i've been doing the same caveman manual door lock/unlocking. No alarm or other gremlin issues.

wood + screws = ramps. Taa daa! 5 minutes of savings.

coupes don't have rear drains right? I took off rear wheel and plastic sheathing and coudln't find a drain plug.

tranny service went well. The old fluid wasn't bad, fairly clear, but did have a stronger smell than the new stuff. Car now shifts better thats for sure and i'm happy. HOWEVER, one side note. While I was under there I decided to change out the front differential(1999 C4) as well. THere I found a problem. How the Bleep do you get the lower plug out? I think it's plug B on Lorens post in DIY. The plug butts almost up against the top of the reservoir so I can't get a socket on it. Tried a 17m wrench and all I did was round a corner:( Plug is now beat up and not a bit looser! Any tips?

dude...plug B is almost impossible to take off using a socket..it's butted up right against the top of the underbody. Tried using a standard wrench and rounded one corner:( Thats a real bugger. Any tips?

I just bought a round of Amsoil svg for transmission and transaxles. I'll report back how i like it once i've filled it up and drive it around a while. 22 bucks sounds expensive for the shell stuff.

went through 2 tanks before realizing the cap was causing issues. If i make it through another year without a leak i'll assume the cap made a difference.

Stefan. I'm def. going to use the mod. But my issue is that when I use my high speed fans via pressing the ac button the temps don't even out in high ambient temp days. I have a turbo front bumper and a small amount of damage on lower left rad all which i believe might contribute to a higher running temps. Just hoping the fan mod/hack you and 1999 have posted will help a bit.

took off all underbody panels and inspected vehicle. While at it checked the trans mount. It had two different numbers on both sides. Are there actually two mounts? I had a 986.375.027 and a 996.375.550 or something close to that. Normal? Advise? Also, the mount, at least the one side I could see wasn't pulled away from the metal. I guess it looks like fosters pic above.

alright...no dice on a pillar. Removed, checked and verified drainage is working very well, no leaks from hose. Also, there is no way to push the battery drain hose back in from bottom and hook the horizontal hose connector to it. So it will now be draining down on my various hoses/pipes until eternity:( lol. What's next? Any other advice. Again, no water in back seat. Just under the drivers feet. I feel hopeless. Also, as an aside the car is parked with nose up on a slanted driveway.

okay, i think i may have found the culprit. The drain under the steering shaft has it's rubber hose fallen into the chasis:( Not sure how the f i'm going to work under there as i can't fit my hand under that area:( Somehow have to use those 90 degree bent pliers to pull it out. Anyone else have this happen and if so how to correct it? It makes me wonder how this happened as i never fool with this area of the car. Hmmm. Thoughts? Advice?

great reply, thank you! Many guys(i'm one) who drive old vanagon's also use ZDDP in their oil. Didn't know we could get away with it in our 911's. I don't burn oil so I'll play around with adding some.

I have several questions regarding oils. One, I was searching the benzworld forum yesterday and came across a very detailed discussion about how synthetics actually start protecting the engine in the sweet spot after 3k miles up to 10k miles. Apparently backed up by analysis. More antiwear compounds present and develope from heat/pressure and thus changing your oil every 3k miles is actually detrimental to your engine life. Those are not my words, no flames. Also, i've been hearing a lot more on people claiming it's better to use dyno oil in the tranny. Also is there a agreed apon additive to use with your mobil 15 50 oil changes to boost zinc etc or is that oil good to go as is.

Passenger side leak was fixed with RFM's solution. But just discovered now i'm leaking from the front drivers side dash. It's funny mistakening gave the wrong title for this thread. The original leak was under the passenger dash. Anway, i blew out the passenger and driver side lines under the hood, but that didn't seem to solve my issue. What next? Any thoughts/tips? 1999 C4 coupe.

Stranger still i just checked and couldn't find any "water trail" coming down the sides of the compartment. It only seems to be wet below my feet. And no moisture in back of seat either. Need help on this one!

HOLD ON THERE PARDNER!

owner said the car "ran" poorly on hot start-up...that has absolutely nada to do with the starter.

Meh!

so are you saying you think this redline stuff might have toasted your waterpump?

bingo. Replace your starter. Same issue a while back. It will last a while like this and eventually die.

anyone ever try or use the Redline Water Wetter? Is it safe? No flames please:) My car runs relatively cool on highway, but approaches 110c on in city driving and it's not the hot part of summer yet in my area. Fan mods are in effect this weekend, but came across this product and wondered if i could use it as well.

well BruceP? Can we get a verdict on whether your temps have settled down since Rad replacement? I have the same issue. High speed fans working fine, but temps rise to 102-108 consistenly in hot weather and stop/go traffic. Going to do the fan mod, but saw this thread and now it has me thinking after seeing the pics of your rads. I blew mine out a month or so ago and haven't seen any improvement in temps reduction. Found a small bit of damage on the lower corner of my rad and although not leaking i'm suspecting they might be corroded as they look a bit similar to yours. Feedback please!

not sure how much time you have, but I stress you sort some of these things out yourself with the help of a few DIY writeups found on this forum. I don't want to sound critical of your INDY on his pricing, but several of those repairs/maintenance can be done by the in experienced joe with a bit of direction, courage and basic tools. Give it a go.

1. Do NOT let someone else change your polyrib belt for 250 bucks. Please don't do that. It will take you 10 minutes and cost you 60 bucks or less.

2. If you have or buy a lift and you can easily replace your brake pads and even rotors fairly easy. At least, the very least tackle the pads, but if you've gone that far the rotors aren't much more of a stretch to replace. (do you even notice "thumpiness" when braking?).

3. O rings on spark plug tubes - check out the Sparky Plug Change out DIY. A bit more advanced but still very doable.

4. Exellent Waterpump replace DIY write up here. Search, you can do this.

5. Bad valves and brake flushing you might want to let him tackle. These cars are Mr. Potato Heads. Components are easy to swap out with all the expert advice and great techincal DIY write ups you will have access here. Search and ask questions and you will be amazed and proud of what you can do....and save an unbelievable amount of money. Just don't be paranoid you will break your car. Courage, you can do it!

for number 3 get a roll of quarter to half inch insulation tape..the kind you put around windows and lay it on the piece below your skylight window..the piece that the window sits on. That will take care of the noise.