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bmohr

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Everything posted by bmohr

  1. i'd buy it if I could retrofit it into a 964.
  2. you could try AT Speed in Columbia, MD. I was just there for a fantastic porsche show this past weekend. Great show and very impressive facility. Hand tools only there. Good stuff.
  3. bmohr

    Red Cab new to me

    I'm learning right along with you Gary. Just got mine last month. Mint condition 90 with 92 engine (39k miles) and 97 six speed tranny, bored out throttle body, MAF, bosch fuel managment system, performance chip etc. Very cool cars, but man i've been sorting through some electrical gremins! The cabin sensor/fan thingy on the back of the CCU unit doesn't shut off all the time and drains the battery, so for now I have to pull the number 1 fuse everytime I leave the car at night:( The passender side doors microswitch has failed. The original owner overfilled the car with a quart of oil!...etc. Otherwise It's a monster to drive and I love it! Keep me posted on your issues. I'm sure I'll need the extra input at some time down the road.
  4. tie rod would be my guess. Had a similar strangish clunk/squeek type of noise that got worse with heat.
  5. Just did this so I figured I would chime in. Daily driver was a 1999 c4 for 3 years. Got it up to 140k miles with just minor component repairs. Engine was still strong when I sold it. Great cars. Just bought a 964 and love it. A little tigher feel, connectedness. Much better engine feel. Many performance upgrades including short shifter kit, but I would say the shifting was easier in the 996. 964 has a much better coasting feel. Meaning you slingshot into 6th and if you let off the gas it almost feels like it increases in speed unlike my 996 which would slow down much more without the gas engaged. Yes, my 964 had a 1992 engine put in with a 993 6 spd tranny. Um, the controls for the 964 aircon blow. The defrost works slowly, the aircon as noted is very weak. Water intrusion happens more in the 964(although technically it shouldn't of course). Much more difficult learning curve for wrenching on the 964. So, besides the negatives the driving experience almost puts it above the 996. The ride is absolutely thrilling, however daily driver concerns do weigh against it for the reasons noted. Less hassles and little annoyances I think in the long term with the 996, but then again those do have exploding engine syndrome to deal with:). I hope you find what you are looking for. Best of luck! Oh, and one more thing to consider. YOu will find more support for repairing your 996 here at renntech than the 964. Not much activity here for those models.
  6. bmohr

    oil level

    Having a heck of a time checking/reading my engine oil level. I think it may be overfilled. It runs fine, no smoke but the gauge is at the topish part while driving/fully warmed engine. Then I let a little pop out of the filler tube while the car was running. Then checked the level again while idling and it seems to be at the top part of the twist in the dipstick. I have no owners manual and this thing is comletely different than my 996. I guess my question is can you use the harbor freight oil vac tool to suck a little out of the dipstick while the engine is off? I'm a bit lost here. I can't imagine the PO overfilling the engine this much but hell I guess anything is possible. Also, i can't find a simple DIY oil change on this forum? Am i missing something? Sorry for the hassles, any help would be great.
  7. 1990 c2 with a 1992 engine 40k miles. Fantastic car. Sold my 996 for an experience with the aircools:) But, I'm a noobie with these models and the 996 is completely different. My issues, engine just got a cel. I believe i"m getting an error code 21. Which is the airflow sensor. IS this the MAF for these models? The maf is realitively new on this car. Also, the door locks pop down then up and won't lock. Any advice would be great. TIA.
  8. thats nothing. On hot days if i use the aircon my needle rolls all the way across the '0' and registers 109-112. I've clean rads, and checked fans. All good. I'm still working on implementing the engine compartment fan hack.
  9. thats a high price for a 2001 996. Keep looking i'd say.
  10. TIFs in Annapolis - Gibralter Ave. I think it's Tifs Foreign Car Care. If you need any help let me know. I'm in Annapolis. Like you said, try and learn as much as you can here and do your own work so you don't have to use any of these recomendations:)
  11. yes, your engine will sound louder than normal, but "whine" is a subjective term. Could be old tires - once you get to a certain speed (at around 65-75mpg) as well. Could be other things too.
  12. ditto on judgejons advice, but remember, you have to remove alot to get to your starter and even then you need several extensions to reach it..so if you do all that and it turns out your starter is going bad, you will have alot of work reinstalling your air intake throttle, alternator etc., and repeating until you can have a new or rebuilt starter ready to replace. So it might be a good idea to have a starter in hand before you start the removal process. Of course it matters less if this isn't your daily driver.
  13. I have switch to Castrol syntec. Very happy so far. Althought I haven't found or tried the 10w 60.
  14. If it was your starter it would more than likely have been showing signs of age long before it actually died. Would start fine on cold start ups, but would be slow to crank after the engine was warmed up. Sounds more like your ignition switch is kaput.
  15. i'm in the washington area too jimmy and have a 99 c4. Car always runs to the right side of the "0" in hot weather/stop and go traffic. Once up to speed it moves from that. Go ahead and get your readings if you like by using the coolant temp hack if you are interested. Otherwise clean the rads like Loren suggested and keep an eye on your front high and low speed fans to make sure they are operating correctly.
  16. i like your thoughts 99911:) Well said! fk it. Life has too many burdens as it is. Might as well lighten the mood with a little WOT on an open highway from time to time:)
  17. Alternator..can be a pain in the ***...a recent member ran into difficulties with tapping the bushing that holds the alternator in place. Have to be a bit firm and deliberate and you will prevail. And yes, replace both electric and air changeover valves while you have everything out. One note of caution..be very careful while working because you can break some plastic parts...little black hoses and also the nipple connectors that attach various runs of coolant into/out of the water pump. The parts are cheap but its a pain waiting for another obscure part to arrive to drive your car again when breaking stuff:) Best of luck!
  18. yes, this situation seemed very consistent with my experiences with the air and electric changeover valves. Blower came on startup, fan stopped like it should after 30 secs or so, drove a mile or so and code would come on afterwards. Replaced these valves and it remedied the situation.
  19. no sht, that is a flat out awesome pcar 1XQuiz! Jaysus...swwwwweeeeeeeeeet!
  20. Indeed Mark. That is exactly what i told them. I refused to take it back there. I'm still waiting to sort out the details but have been promised it will be taken care of. I'll update the process once it gets finished and i'm (hopefully) happy.
  21. Thanks guys, all good advice. I was going to try and claybar it but took the advice and called my insurance company USAA(awesome group) and they were upset, filled a complaint for me and are going to get me squared away. I just couldn't imagine that a company could hand over a car with that much overspray and claim it's just a bit of pollen or something that will "buff" out during the next wash and wax job. Hell if it was that easy they should have done it themselves. And as far as the bumper is concerned I have no idea what they did. He says the bumper was painted off the car, which makes sense. And yet he said the car was "covered" during painting, so i have to assume that took place during the blending of the paint to match the bumper. So either it occurred then, or they left my car uncovered while they did another job close by and it got sprayed over. Who knows. Again, thanks for all the advice, hopefully the shop that takes care of me doesn't thin out the factory applied clearcoat or some other catastrophe. jaysus!
  22. Had a new front bumper put on last week due to a minor collision. When i retrieved the vehicle it came with the whole car basically covered in overspray. I took it back, they were supposed to polish it off. Picked it up again and no change. What would be the best way to remove the overspray...looks to be clear coat overspray. Could a manual wax/buffing do the trick? Polisher? Product to use? Any advise would be great. Many thanks in advance.
  23. I had a K&N on my 3.4 for about 10k miles or so, no cells. Was louder indeed. Maybe a bit better throttle response. Not sure it increased any power or not, but I'll tell you the possible dirt/grit you are potentially subjecting your engine to with it on is not worth the benefits mentioned IMO. I took it off and reinstalled my original airbox. 340 bucks..wow. It should be less than half of that for some plastic tubing and a filter.
  24. if they can't trace the coolant leak then the other possibilities are the cap as loren stated OR coolant moving into the engine via crack.
  25. bushing bushing bushing. Tap the hell out of it. Then voila. It will slid in. Gave me a hell of a time as well. Don't give up and be patient and deliberate.
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