bmohr

comes around goes around

or your starter motor is dying on you. Mine started displaying warm starting issues(slow crank) after 85k miles. Replaced it around 90k and it was fine after that. Get your bat checked like Phillip said and if it's okay, you might need to pull it and have a shop refurb it for you, or buy another one.

GT Performance - Gennady is the PCA racecar driver and owns/runs a great shop. He is in Edgewood MD(about 30 mins north of Baltimore).

you could damage the cat, i believe that is what the code warns against. So I would get it to where you can do the repairs and not drive it until you get your parts. The numbers? No, but you can search and find them. Pelican Parts has them 997-602-107-00-M47 for $60..which is i guess the newest version of these paks seeing the 997 number. But if you get them from Oklahoma you don't need the part numbers just give them the year of your 911 and they will pull them from a similar model year.

Plugs were only 20k miles old, so i didn't bother replacing them yet. I think Matt and Gary runs things in OK Foreign. And as far as seeing the cracks, no you can't really see them until you pull off the side engine tin(2 bolts very easy) and then you can very easily see the #6 coil pak. The plastic casing will have cracks and then the inside metal starts to rust.

I had the same issue and same code P0306 (cylinder #6 misfiring) a few weeks back. I'm sure all your paks are probably cracking, but this is the first one to go on you. You can change out just the one that is currently fouled for 50 bucks. Very easy to do it yourself with the Spark Plug Change DIY write up that Loren posted. Or, you could do what i did and buy all six of them from Oklahoma foreign for 150 bucks. They are a salvage company that pulls parts from low mileage 911s and such. All 6 i bought were in perfect condition and will last a long time. At $25 a piece I figured it was worth it.

dude, rain and misfire usually spells cracked coil pak. Do yourself a favor and follow the extremely easy instructions on this forum on how to change them out and save a bundle of cash.(P0306, 0304 etc) misfiring codes, just replace the coil pak they point to.

wvicary is correct, ifyou don't want to spend money on the tool, just use alot of hand torque and a long pair of needle nose pliers...the long ones give you more leverage.

seems like the odds are high for you experiencing the above problems. So it's probably not worth the small benefits of louder(some say better) engine noise, increased throttle response and maybe, and i mean MAYBE a small hp gain, although no where near the 25 they claim. But, on the same token, some are lucky and experience no ill effects.

possibly coil paks? Can you have a loss of perforamce without throwing codes with cracking/failing coil paks?

i had/have a similar issue. Vibration around 3k rpms. Replaced motor mounts, but the vibration still there. Balanced wheels, and the vibration still there. Just got a cel for a misfire, due to cracked ignition coils. I will replace this weekend and see if that cures the vibration.

hey logray, call up Oklahoma Foreign, tell them what piece you need and they will pull it from a wreaker from their salvage yard for dirt cheap. I get alot of parts from them. Speak to Gary or Matt.

http://www.oklahomaforeign.com/

don't worry. I did the exact same thing when replacing my air and electric changeover valves. Just put a piece of tight tubing or better yet shrink wrap tubing over it and you will be good to go. Fking little black pieces of plastic strewn all throughout a hot *** engine = breakage:(

is it possible that i bent the cross member that holds the mount out towards myself when pulling on the wrench to break the bolt free on the mount? I had to pull with all my strenght for 15 minutes before it finally gave. Hmm...I now see that piece of metal is fairly "loose" or it wobbles a bit when i un screw the mount. Is that normal? Or did i do some damage torquing those nuts off? Another easy job turn PIA.

i replaced my motor mounts today and after I was done the left side sags a little down more than the right:( Whats up with that? Also the left side extends further from the car now too. Wtf did i do wrong? All i did was remove and replace. Anyone else have a similar issue?

sounds like you need a new starter motor. I had similar hard to crank/weak crank on hot starts when i first bought my car and replaced the starter motor which solved all my issues. Of course i verified the bat was good by testing it first. There is a starter motor diy here you can work through, just be patient and watch out for brittle plastic and hoses! lol

i can, but there really isn't a lot of room there to look down. That is why i couldn't see anything until i crawled under the car, but I'll give it a post this afternoon. Thanks.

1999 C4

Hello, i noticed some oily seepage from a component just infront of the rear passenger motor/engine mount. From the picture attached you can see where the wires, and whatnot are "wet" from the leaks. Is this the power steering pump? Also, my motor mount bolts have the goo build up on them so i assume they are due for a change out.

be careful of the coolant hoses that go into/out of the water pump. They have brittle black plastic connectors inside that will break and then have to replace...not to mention pulling out the broken and brittle nipples from the hoses. PITA.

yes..have had rattles since i bought mine. Finally figured out it a few months back...was the black flange under the rear lip of the moonroof. Just put some sticky window insulation tape across the top of it(in the grove) and it will solve one of the many source of rattles.

I have read up on the many posts of key remote issues, but could not find a similar issue so here goes. My remote (1999 C4) started flashing the other night. Quick flashes, for a minute or so and then stop. If i press the button, no lights at all, but the flashing comes back. And the remote wont open the doors. I replaced the battery, did the reset procedure and no worky worky. So i figured my remote was dead as some of the other posters had reported. But then today i tried it again, got the same flashing lights but the doors opened and i locked then too. So my question is whats up with my remote? Anyone experienced a similiar issue.

Not sure if there is a concensus on this but whats the general option on the best model year engine to purchase for a replacement engine? All things equal, whats the best performer?

1999 3.4

don't let the butt plug rain on your parade. It looks sweet!

no, i don't know the answer, but I share your opinion on chrome! Hate it. Love the silver powder coat or polish look a lot though. More classy/refined in my option.

can you share your pricing bottom line and other what nots. Is your a wrecker 3.6? New? He called me yesterday to discuss options and noted a 3.6 in ny? with 7500 miles he was thinking would be a good fit for my car. But I'm not too up to speed on the exact details on what he does with the engine besides install it and marry it up to my existing DME. I mean, is the engine inspected, modified in any way to make sure the intermiadiate shaft doesn't go boom, rms issues, and others? Otherwise i guess i would just be buying another (possibly suspect engine). I know they are supposed to be better than the 3.4's but i've heard the 3.6's also can bottom out. Let me know any details you can. Thanks phillip!

brian