Northstar

I have noticed a strange behaviour of my car lately :( Occationally the car starts on the first attempt, but usually not. It does not seem to be low battery state of charge as all the control lamps in the instrument cluster is lit up and the compartment fan is blowing. When the engine has started the voltage level seems to be normal. It does not matter if I have been driving for 300 km or more or just a short run. The car has covered some 40000 km and is of model year 2000, Club Sport package. When I turn the ignition key all the lamps in the cluster is lit up and I switch to the “start” position. Then I hear a noise from the engine as if it would start but without turning the engine the “start” procedure is interrupted. No cranking of the engine or anything, so it does not seem to be the fuel system. Then I wait a few seconds and turn the ignition key to “start” again and sometimes the engine starts at the second attempt and sometimes at the third/fourth/... attempt. So far the engine has always started, but I’m fearing the day when it will not and I am far away from home. Could it be the starter(motor), the cog-wheel(?) that is supposed to turn the fly wheel to start the engine? I have never replaced the battery of the key, could it be low state of charge of the battery in the key (immobiliser does not get the code to “release” the start procedure)? But that does not explain the random start behaviour? Is it the nearest Porsche Center next? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Regards Anders Johansson Sweden

In Europe they are called front wheel deflectors, or wheel spoilers. The items themselves increase the aerodynamic drag but the air flow under the vehicle and around the suspension/drive shafts etc is improved. The result is an decreased drag in total.

Thanks for the info Craig! I have had some conversation with Swedish owners regarding what to look for when checking potential buys out. Yes, they too mention the front brakes. One owner is on his third set of front brake rotors (have upgraded to the GT2 front steel brakes the last time. Is that the same 6-piston brakes as on the mk II?). When checking ads in Germany some owners have replaced the syncronisation rings (don't know if the translation is correct, but the conical rings in the gear box that is being used when shifting, to get the same rev on the drive shafts as the engine) from brass(?) to steel. I have found one GT3 Clubsport version that I'm interested in (24000 km on the odo). The CS' are more likely driven more on track events but from a future value point of view a CS should be a better buy? Or? I intend to use the car mainly in track events and Porsche Club activities. Carnewal have a GT3 Cup brake ducts upgrade, Carnewal, might be something to go for to spare the front brakes? Anders

Hello! I am considering buying a 996 GT3 mk1 (1999-2001). Are there any known problems with the GT3? Except for mechanical wear (clutch, brake rotors etc.)? Thanks Anders 996 Carrera 2

I am in the process of reading all the posts to this forum and just found this question (I am new to the forum). I have heard of (never whitnessed myself) of 996's with blown engines on trackdays with Porsche Club Sweden. Symptom was described as a lot of smoke. The engine had to be replaced. As I am using Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tyres as of this year, I contacted the Tech Support in Sweden and got the recommendation to fit the oil pan from the Carrera Power Kit. No big deal, something like 170 Euro for the part. As I hade the car in for 60000 km service I had the workshop to do the assembly. The modification is a few extra rubber flaps to keep the oil in the lowest point. The explanation I got was that in high lateral forces the oil would be "pressed" up in the engine (hence the smoke coming out of the exhaust) and leaving not enough oil for the pump to cool/lube the engine. The answer is to late for your track day, but I thoght the information could be useful for others. Anders

VAT differs from country to country in Europe. In the UK the general VAT is 17.5%. Anders

Thankyou everyone for the input. I searched the forum and found a link with pictures etc of how to replace the seats (GT3 seat, but the procedure should be the same). With the information from you guys I do not think I will run in to any problems. I will keep the 3 point belt, and yes there is a hole in the metal bracket of the seat (for adjusting position). I will have to move the seat belt connector. Next question; tightening torque for this bolt? When disconnecting the battery, is the re-entry of the code for the Radio-CD all you have to think about regarding all electrical functions when you have finished the job? Anders

Hello! I am new to this forum, what a great site! I have made my donation today to contribute to the maintenance of this site. Well worth the cost in my opinion. I will replace my OEM drivers seat with a Sparco Rev, I have searched the DIY forum in search for the tightening torque for the 4 bolts attaching the seat to the floor. Does anyone know? Are there any guidelines regarding the bolts? Should you replace the old bolts with new once's before assembly? Should you use Loctite "thread locking fluid"? Anything else to be aware of? I have heated front seats (live at latitude 57° north in the south of Sweden), but the Sparco will not (I do not use my Porsche from October to April ;) ). Do I have to do any mods to the wiring harness or is it just to never push the button for the heated seats? Regards Anders Johansson Trollhattan (hometown of the Saab cars) Sweden Porsche 996 Carrera 2 1998