joee

I too need to adjust the throttle cable. I have the cover off the adjustment box and it is just a set of cams connecting two cables. There seems to be an adjuster on the cable going to the throuttle body but I can not get it to move. Any clues?

Put it up and then take the fuse out. In early Boxsters there's a fuse just for the spoiler.

I would not event try on a '97. There were changes in the suspension in '98 to allow 18" wheels. 18's are not advisable on a '97. I have put Carrera wheels on our '98 after figuring all the tire and rim locations and getting some 25mm spacers and longer lug bolts for the rear. Be very careful in putting different wheels on your car. If the offsets are not correct and you torque the lug bolts down you may bend a strut.....

The pet on line shows the wire going to the right hand side ofa UK car, page 202 https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/pdf/e...986_KATALOG.pdf . It's a small wire with a loop on the end, silver-al colored. Usually the front of the wheel well liner has to be peeled back and then look inside with a light and find it. If you have not owned the car new you might check the toe-hook opening in the front bumper, some people reroute the cable to right behind the cicular plastic plug on the right hand side of the bumper.

Strike the Bentley manual but buy something. The B will help with a lot of things but not right for your car.

Might contact Porschelibrarian a renntech member.

How did your car get the mods if you're so inexperienced?

Relax Smack you can do this and more, you know to stay at a Holiday Inn Express...

Not sure why you need the seats...

Some people say ATE Blue is OEM with a blue die. Many people do not like the Blue because it stains the resovior... They use ATE Gold or Original. Both are fine for street use.

Pads - most like Pagid orange pads for the track. They make noise in street use and are objectable to some. Stock pads are fine if they are thick enough but they don't stop as well or last.

ATE comes in leter cans, usually enough for a flush but buy two cans (gold or original) and you'll have enough for future bleeds. I lower the brake fluid to the bottom of the resovior by putting 25psi of pressure on the resovior and opening a bleed value at the wheels. Then fill the resovior up and bleed the brakes quite a bit. If the brake fluid coming out is not clear bleed unti it is. Most of the bad brake fluid is in the calipers where it gets really hot. Be sure to flush/bleed the clutch too.

Buy a Bentley manual, well worth the $ 50 or so.

I assume you are joking about the oil thing.

Before:

Oil should be at least 40W and maybe 50W if it is really hot.

Brake fluid should be changed once a year.

Be sure pads and rotors are thicker than spec .

No cracks in the rotors between holes.

Bleed brakes and look over tires before each DE.

Look around the wheels and under the engine, leaks rubs cv joint boats.

Do the PCA pretech check.

If your on the level as you should be it doesn't matter. Slightly better to have the car in gear with the ebrake on....

Sucks...

Sounds like BS. A minute or two or five should be an eternity to the electgronics....

On Us cars it's just in front of the passenger's side front wheel well. I assume this is the driver's side in the UK. You need to pull the wheel liner back or down to find it. I have rerouted mine to be behind the plug in the bumper for the tow hook. Makes it much easier to get to in a case like this.

Check the TSB's, I remember one on the top for 97-98 years of Boxster. I got all the parts in a kit from a dealer. There were two gearboxes, two wire cable drivers, and the mounting hardware for the gearboxes. I remember all this being about 1K$'s. Whatever parts are broken or bend should also be replaced, these are usually the drive arms for the clamshell and the top. If you earch around you should be able to find more info as this has been a popular topic.

All depends .... Porsche will recommend that the tires be like make and model on all four wheels for stuff like ABS and PSM to work properly. If the car is new you may only be able to get a matching tire from Porsche. You may want to replace both tires on the same axle at the same time, front or rear. Mismatch tires on the front/rear will work but the ABS or PSM may kick in or may not ... I had this on a 996 with Conti's in the front qand Michelins in the rear- when cold the abs would kick in on the front trires too soon. On the other hand for a daily driver almost any tires will do for getting around.

Everyone enjoy Thanksgiving!!!

I would check the TSB's for replacement of the drives and adjustment. Also see manuals. As a start I set the arms to the same length as the old ones. Having been through this I would spend the bucks for the replacement drives. I remember getting it all done with the older drives and then having big problems again....

What model and year is your car? If it is an early Boxster you may need to replace the drive gearboxs and flexible shafts from the motor drive to the gear boxes.

Rear struts have to sit properly on spacers at top. There are cut outs for brads that hold the struts together at the top. Hard to see this causing an inch difference in ride height.

We use our '98 Boxster mostly in good weather, ie above 32F. I have Mobil1 15-50 Extended Performance oil in it for track use, things get really hot in Colorado in the summer. I usually change to Mobil 1 0-40 for the winter. But since the car only has about 3K miles on this oil change I'm wondering about leaving the oil in and being sure to not start it if the temperature sensor is below 32F. Anyone know the usalbe temperature range for 15-50?

This may be as easy as reprograming your power seat memory while the car is stopped. On our '02 Carrera with the 6 way seats with memory if you reprogram your memory while stopped the passenger side rear view mirror will tilt down when the car is in reverse. If you reprogram the seat memory with the car in motion the mirror will not tilt down.

Driver's Education - run by local Porsche clubs at race tracks. Passing is limited and controled. Usually there are timed runs for class positions at the end of the last day. Join Porsche Club of America, it's fun, you meet great people and learn lots about driving and taking care of your car!

Stock pads are 12mm front and 10.5mm rear. The limit is 2mm front and rear. I think the brake wear indicator will start at 2.5 mm.

It can be well over 100F in Colorado in the summer. Repeated use of brakes from 100mph at these temps causes things to acclerate in terms of wear.

I'm sure you can get by with no action for now but if you want to be safe get someone to look over your brakes and probably do a full brake rebuild....

I have known people with non-s Boxsters who have used the Zimmer drilled and had problems with them warping under the heat of DE's. Also, people with Boxster-S's use the Porsche rotors to avoid the warping. I have a 98 Boxster with the Zimmer rotors on the front and Pagid orange pads front and rear. It really stops very on the track, some noise in braking around town.

1. Buy a Bentley Service Manual

2. Rotors need to be replaced, 22.6 mm front and 18.6 mm rear are limits.

3. If the pads are only as thick as the backing plate I would replace them.

4. Just replace everything yourself, if you do a bit of study you'll be able to pull it off yourself.

5. While you are at it replace the brake fluid and bleed the brakes.

6. Brakes are easy but important, enjoy your car!!!

7. Zimmer rotors are fine on a non-s, don't do the drilled ones.

8. Porsche pads are good, Pagid are better but you may have to do without the wear indicators.

Some brake pads do not have the holes for the sensors, like Pagid. I used to take a cable tie and secure the sensors out of the way on the metal brake line. I recently cut them short and twiested them together and cramped an electircal connector on them. I was a little concerned about the tied up sensors rubing on wider tires I put in the front. Just seemed neater too.

Sounds like a power steering pump problem. I would start by taking the cover off the engine and then perhaps the front cover off, that's the one behind the seats. Where is the oil coming from? I think the power steering pump is on the driver's side front of the engine.

If the battery is charged the releases in the drives door sill should work or may be faulty. If the battery is dead then jump start using a connection through the cigar lighter or the fuse panel. If that does not work peel back the front of the underside wheel well cover on the passenger side. There is an emergency release mechanism consisting of a silver wire loop up under the passenger side head light. Pull it and then jumper the battery directly and get the rear to open. There is also an emergency release mechanism for the rear trunk located behind the tail light on the driver's side.