kevinkw

I have a CDR 220, and the serial number is X5013010, this is a 99 C4.

Thanks

Took it to the shop, turns out that one of the hoses that goes into the air oil separator was cracked in two places.

I installed the new MAF, and the code is back again...

Anything else I can check, or time to take it in?

I had same codes and replaced MAF sensor, problem solved. Got it from Pelican Parts, make sure you get the right one based on your VIN (e-accellerator).

Thanks for the advice for Pelican, they have it for $234, and the Porsche stamped one is $651. I can see where Sunset's price quote came from.

I have a 1999 Carrera 4, so it's the E-Gas version.

I'll give my current MAF one more cleaning today, and if that doesn't work, will order the part from Pelican.

Thanks for the suggestion Pete, I checked this morning, it was on tight. Then I thought about what you said, I was wondering if people here have run across where the oil filler hose itself might be cracked or has a leak somewhere since it looks like it's made of plastic?

The quote I got from Sunset is $591...

Has anyone bought a MAF on eBay from these guys? They have a new one here for $230.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911...#ht_1810wt_1309

Or these guys who have after market non-OEM for $150ish

http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/99660612300.html

Any suggestions?

Okay, sorry I understand your picture now - it looks clean.

Likely a bad MAF at this point.

If you have the Durametric software (or a PST2 or PIWIS tester) you can read the MAF and see if the readings are at spec at idle and 2500 RPM.

Only way to be 100% sure it's the MAF.

The CEL came back again. Sunset is the best place to order it?

Hey Loren,

Thanks for the clarification, the site has helped me get over the fear of working on my own car quite a bit.

The there's no oil on the outside, and none that I can see around the valve opening area. The picture I took was opening the valve trying to look inside, except I can't tell if it is oil or just carbon build up. I was hoping that you can tell from the picture.

Am I supposed to completely remove the throttle body from the car to look at it from the part where it attached to the engine?

If the AOS is bad, is it supposed to be an obvious amount of oil? Does the oil get on the valve and where it connects with the rubber housing? I didn't see any there, and didn't feel any oil as far as my finger can reach into the throttle body valve opening.

Thanks for the advice Loren.

I took out the MAF again, and sprayed it with some MAF cleaner on the metal sheet in between the plastic.

I also took the rubber hosing to the throttle body off and check for oil. There's no oil in the rubber hosing, and I cleaned the throttle body valve of gunk with throttle body cleaner spray. I didn't notice oil near the valve.

I did take a picture deeper in to the throttle body, I can't really tell if the attached picture is what you would consider a film of oil, or if it's oil at all?

Hey Loren,

Thanks for the advice. I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on the MAF contacts the first time around. This time I bought a can of the MAF cleaner. Any idea exactly where on the MAF module I should spray the thing?

Hey Loren,

Thanks for your help. I turned off the CEL lights, and cleaned the MAF (after hunting down some security torx). After a couple of days of driving, the CEL has come back. This time with the 1128/1130 codes only.

I'm a total newbie at working on my own car, so I need to ask about your earlier post.

1. What exactly is the the throttle body, and how do I check it for oil. If there is oil, what should I do?

2. Some other posts mentioned the air oil separator, what is that, would that have something to do with this?

3. Are the two above DIYable? Should I go clean the MAF again, and just hose it with the contact cleaner? And be ready to buy a new MAF?

Thanks,

Kevin

I'm trying to take the MAF out, but it looks like the T20 they're using has an extra bit that sticks out in the middle? What kind of screw is that? Also the screw on the bottom is facing away and below me, which seems hard to get to?

Is there an illustrated how to?

Hi All,

I have a 1999 996 C4 Tip with 58,000 miles. I took it to a PCA event yesterday and had a lot of fun with the car. The car passed a tech inspection at the local indie shop a couple of weeks prior. There was some oil splatter on the bumper, and we checked the engine oil level and it was a couple of mm higher than the max on the dipstick. People thought that the oil might be due to the overfill of the engine oil leaking down and getting sucked up at high speeds up to the rear bumper. No CEL on the drive home after the driver education event at the track.

No CEL on the way to work, but the CEL did light up on the way home when I stopped for some shopping. I hooked the OBD2 reader and codes P0740, P1128, and P1130 all came up. Was this caused by driving the car hard at the DE event when the oil was overfilled, or doing the DE just made the car decide it wanted the 60k mile service earlier?

The car drives fine, no smoke, no oil splatter, just the CEL is now on.

-Kevin

I sometimes get a rattle and have narrowed it down to the door panel. I keep CDs in there, and sometimes at idle I have enough just enough vibration coming from the aftermarket exhaust that they'll start to rattle.

I have had the same issue for months now...

I stuffed felt everywhere, had the speakers out. Next up is taking off the defroster vents.

After months of taking out and putting back in various trim pieces all around the interior of my car, I finally found the problem!

The noise was actually coming from the the two lower trays from the center console. The trays themselves were rattling against the lower center console frame.

I ended up taking out the trays, and putting a lot of felt tape all around. That got rid of the rattling.

For some reason, the noises gets amplified and goes behind and up through the vents, and that's why everyone thought the noise originated from there, when it was somewhere entirely the whole time.

Take out your tray / CD / Tape holder and see if the rattle noises go away.

me and Silver had the same issue. I think he flushed his resvr. out. I found mine makes this noise in cold weather regardless of what I do. When weather warms, sound goes away.

If the sound actually comes from the steering wheel cowling itself then it is the indicator return pin. This is the piece of the indicator stalk that makes a connection with the steering wheel upon return to centre thus disabling the indicator turn signal. I have the same thing, it sounds like a ratchet. Haven't fixed it yet as can't be bothered but you can lubricate the baulk that it makes contact with to stop the noise.

The pin sounds about right, since I added some steering fluid, and the noise did not go away.

Should I spray some silicone lube in in the steering wheel cowling? Do I need to open anything up?

Loren, does the above diagram apply to a MY02 Targa as well?

Sorry to butt in Kevin!

Bill

No problem Bill, I actually almost bought a 02 Targa.

Looks like Miley's new ride is her Mom's old GTS...

http://www.inquisitr.com/11824/taste-miley...orsche-cayenne/

When I turned 16, all I got was a 1987 Cadillac Cimarron with the digital display. I pretended it was a Corvette.

Thanks Loren!

That looks complicated, but I'll give it a try.

The dog sits in the passenger seat, so he doesn't really use the seatbelt.

It has been getting cold in Seattle, and my steering has started to make noise. A combination of ratcheting / creaking noise coming from the dash when I turn the wheel at low speeds. Is the weather (25 degrees), or something else?

I was wondering how you can take out the B-pillar trim and take a look at the seatbelt assembly.

The height adjustment mechanism is a little loose, and on rough roads make a pretty consistent rattle noise.

I already removed the coat hanger piece, and the screw, but not sure how to proceed next.

Hey Bruce,

Yeah, the airbag TSB was the first one done.

I ended up going under the dash in the footwells. There's a couple of places where the AC ducts meets the metal parts under the dash. I placed some felt tape where they come in contact, we'll see if that solves the problem.

I drove it around a little more today and the noise seems to be coming from underneath the vents. I jiggled with the AC ducts, and they seem to be pretty loose where they join. However, they are really hard to get to. I don't think I can maneuver myself in putting some mounting tape where they join through the side vent.

Any ideas?

Rattles drive me crazy and I have hunted down more than a few in my day on many cars. Squeaks and rattles are often eliminated by using foam or felt tape in strategic areas. Car companies also use specialty lubricants like Dupont Krytox. My advice is to continue to try to isolate the source/area of the noise. If you remove potentially offending trim, examine the placement and wear of any foam/felt tape. Look for missing or broken mounting tabs and fasteners. Take the car for a drive without the trim installed, perhaps do so for each piece you remove, one at a time. Replace or re-fit any foam/felt tape. Apply a very light amount of lubricant (I like Krytox and/or dielectric paste) to suspect components. These steps usually work. --Brian

I have driven with the A Pillar trim, side vent, speaker, and defroster vent out. The rattle is still there. Any ideas at all?

There's still some rattling sound, but I couldn't tell if it was from the black plastic parts underneath the vents vibrating against the metal or because I didn't take apart the driver side.

Any ideas?

Otherwise I will just put in as much felt and double sided mounting tape between the two slabs of plastic, and call it a day.

Hey Barry,

I was going through the same process you were about a year ago. My previous car was a 2000 Boxster S. For the Boxsters, the plastic windows were actually bigger than the glass ones.

I ended up with a 1999 C4 with 48k mi, price was definitely a deciding factor. Right around your price point. 2002s were about $9000 or more than a 99 at that point in time. The question boils down to if the facelift, and the slightly bigger engine is worth $9000 to you. In the end, I wanted a 911 for GTI money, not BMW 328i money.

The engine thing seems to be a crap shoot. I have a friend whose Boxster S engine blew even though it was newer. Getting a another used engine put in probably costs around what you save buying a 99/00 over a 2002.