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About kevinkw

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
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Profile Fields

  • From
    Seattle, WA
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 C4
  • Former cars
    1987 Cadillac Cimarron
    1997 BMW 318ti
    2000 Boxster S

kevinkw's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. I have a CDR 220, and the serial number is X5013010, this is a 99 C4. Thanks
  2. Took it to the shop, turns out that one of the hoses that goes into the air oil separator was cracked in two places.
  3. I installed the new MAF, and the code is back again... Anything else I can check, or time to take it in?
  4. Thanks for the advice for Pelican, they have it for $234, and the Porsche stamped one is $651. I can see where Sunset's price quote came from. I have a 1999 Carrera 4, so it's the E-Gas version. I'll give my current MAF one more cleaning today, and if that doesn't work, will order the part from Pelican.
  5. Thanks for the suggestion Pete, I checked this morning, it was on tight. Then I thought about what you said, I was wondering if people here have run across where the oil filler hose itself might be cracked or has a leak somewhere since it looks like it's made of plastic?
  6. The quote I got from Sunset is $591... Has anyone bought a MAF on eBay from these guys? They have a new one here for $230. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911...#ht_1810wt_1309 Or these guys who have after market non-OEM for $150ish http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/99660612300.html Any suggestions?
  7. Hey Loren, Thanks for the clarification, the site has helped me get over the fear of working on my own car quite a bit. The there's no oil on the outside, and none that I can see around the valve opening area. The picture I took was opening the valve trying to look inside, except I can't tell if it is oil or just carbon build up. I was hoping that you can tell from the picture. Am I supposed to completely remove the throttle body from the car to look at it from the part where it attached to the engine? If the AOS is bad, is it supposed to be an obvious amount of oil? Does the oil get on the valve and where it connects with the rubber housing? I didn't see any there, and didn't feel any oil as far as my finger can reach into the throttle body valve opening.
  8. Thanks for the advice Loren. I took out the MAF again, and sprayed it with some MAF cleaner on the metal sheet in between the plastic. I also took the rubber hosing to the throttle body off and check for oil. There's no oil in the rubber hosing, and I cleaned the throttle body valve of gunk with throttle body cleaner spray. I didn't notice oil near the valve. I did take a picture deeper in to the throttle body, I can't really tell if the attached picture is what you would consider a film of oil, or if it's oil at all?
  9. Hey Loren, Thanks for the advice. I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on the MAF contacts the first time around. This time I bought a can of the MAF cleaner. Any idea exactly where on the MAF module I should spray the thing?
  10. Hey Loren, Thanks for your help. I turned off the CEL lights, and cleaned the MAF (after hunting down some security torx). After a couple of days of driving, the CEL has come back. This time with the 1128/1130 codes only. I'm a total newbie at working on my own car, so I need to ask about your earlier post. 1. What exactly is the the throttle body, and how do I check it for oil. If there is oil, what should I do? 2. Some other posts mentioned the air oil separator, what is that, would that have something to do with this? 3. Are the two above DIYable? Should I go clean the MAF again, and just hose it with the contact cleaner? And be ready to buy a new MAF? Thanks, Kevin
  11. I'm trying to take the MAF out, but it looks like the T20 they're using has an extra bit that sticks out in the middle? What kind of screw is that? Also the screw on the bottom is facing away and below me, which seems hard to get to? Is there an illustrated how to?
  12. Hi All, I have a 1999 996 C4 Tip with 58,000 miles. I took it to a PCA event yesterday and had a lot of fun with the car. The car passed a tech inspection at the local indie shop a couple of weeks prior. There was some oil splatter on the bumper, and we checked the engine oil level and it was a couple of mm higher than the max on the dipstick. People thought that the oil might be due to the overfill of the engine oil leaking down and getting sucked up at high speeds up to the rear bumper. No CEL on the drive home after the driver education event at the track. No CEL on the way to work, but the CEL did light up on the way home when I stopped for some shopping. I hooked the OBD2 reader and codes P0740, P1128, and P1130 all came up. Was this caused by driving the car hard at the DE event when the oil was overfilled, or doing the DE just made the car decide it wanted the 60k mile service earlier? The car drives fine, no smoke, no oil splatter, just the CEL is now on. -Kevin
  13. I have had the same issue for months now... I stuffed felt everywhere, had the speakers out. Next up is taking off the defroster vents. After months of taking out and putting back in various trim pieces all around the interior of my car, I finally found the problem! The noise was actually coming from the the two lower trays from the center console. The trays themselves were rattling against the lower center console frame. I ended up taking out the trays, and putting a lot of felt tape all around. That got rid of the rattling. For some reason, the noises gets amplified and goes behind and up through the vents, and that's why everyone thought the noise originated from there, when it was somewhere entirely the whole time. Take out your tray / CD / Tape holder and see if the rattle noises go away.
  14. If the sound actually comes from the steering wheel cowling itself then it is the indicator return pin. This is the piece of the indicator stalk that makes a connection with the steering wheel upon return to centre thus disabling the indicator turn signal. I have the same thing, it sounds like a ratchet. Haven't fixed it yet as can't be bothered but you can lubricate the baulk that it makes contact with to stop the noise. The pin sounds about right, since I added some steering fluid, and the noise did not go away. Should I spray some silicone lube in in the steering wheel cowling? Do I need to open anything up?
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