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Everything posted by vrauba

  1. Pardon, but I submitted this topic in wrong forum..that's probably why I haven't been getting replies. Hopefully this one will work better. First I have a CDR-220 from a 2000 Boxster. It is Becker model number BE 4462. Just the other day, when I tried to play CD's I got an error message on the faceplate. Initially it says "loading" and then "error". I do not hear the CD spin, at all. No sound, no nothing. It spits CD back out. I tried numerous CD's... even a brand new factory burnt CD. Is this a problem with the unit that cannot be fixed? I'm pessimistic. Locally, another Porsche owner is selling a CDR-220 from a 996. It is part number 998.645.126.10 and the model is BE 6625. Since this is different model number will there be issues with wiring or compatability? It looks exactly the same as far as I can tell. I'm thinking pulling my old one out and sliding the BE-6625 right in. Will it be "plug and play"? The BE 6625 does have a code key card. Or should/can I fix mine? The radio and remote CD changer seem to work fine. I also didn't jam anything in the CD slot and last time I used it before it stopped working all together, there were no symptoms, no abuse no hiccups....nothing. Can it simply crap out like that? Actually, I haven't used it all that much over the years. Pretty dissapointed with Becker. Will unplugging and rentering code do anything? Any opinions, feedback or shared experiences will be appreciated. Thanks
  2. My CDR-220 model BE 4462 from my 2000 Boxster has an issue whereby the cd's wont play any longer. I get "loading" and then "error" message on the screen. I tried numerous cd's. I suspect that means there is a major problem. Radio and remote 6 disc changer work fine. Someone locally is selling a CDR-220 BE 6625 part number 996.645.126.10. He says it works fine. I have two questions....first, am I correct that the error message I'm getting means the unit is fried for playing cd's and is not worth fixing? Second, will this CDR-220 (BE 6625) from a 996 plug right in play without modifications if I swap them out? The BE6625 does have a code key with it. Why the different model numbers? I can understand different part numbers because they're from different cars, but why different Becker model numbers? Would there be differences in wiring harnesses, or something? If anyone has had any experience regarding interchangeability, I'd really appreciate your input. I need to buy in next day or two, or let it go. Thanks.
  3. Forgive my stupidity, but if you have your car lowered with competition springs, do you still try to attain the factory specs of the stock springs? I thought it would be a totally different set-up. If I had a shop install a set of H&R or Eibach or Rook Racing or Gemballa springs, what spec's would I give them or does an alignment shop not need any input from me? This would be for street, not track. Can anybody recommend or list the alignment spec's or is this a totally stupid question?
  4. I'm thinking about lowering my 2000 Boxster and I see 3 makes/models most often from a variety of sources. They are the Eibach, H&R and Roock. I can get info from the internet about H&R and Eibach, but there is little to be garnished from www.roockusa.com. Has anybody had experience with their RS spring kit for Boxster? I'm curious about the spring rates, the amount it will lower the car, clearance issues and harshness of ride. My intended application is for 75% everyday street use and 25% on the track. Any recommendations anyone? I currently use 8X18 (ET50)and 8X10 (ET40) rims and have a second set 7.5X18 (ET50) and 9X18 (ET52). Both sets have 225 and 265 tires. Any idea how much installation would be and is it possibly a do it yourself project for someone with a avg. mechanical skill/experience? Is it even worth it? Thanks.
  5. Pardon if this is repeat...there seems to have been problems with the posting tool yesterday. My question is is there a difference between M490 996-645-321-00 6 X 40 amp and a M680 986-645-321-00 6 X 40 amp? If I wanted to swap out my current 4 X40 Haes amp out of my 2000 Boxster to add rear speakers. would either one work just as well? Do they have the same pinouts? My head unit is a CDR-220. Thanks.
  6. I'm trying to upgrade from my 4 X 40 Haes amp to a 6 X 40 Haes amp to power rear speakers. Is there a difference between M490 996-645-321-00 and M680 986-645-312-00? Or does that only mean one came from a 996 and the other from a Boxster. Will either one work equally as well? Thanks.
  7. Thanks for the reply. Yes, the picture you pasted is exactly what I've been looking for. I've been tracking eBay for a while and haven't seen them. I'll keep looking, I guess. Do you know if the one you have a picture of sold? If not, I may be able to contact seller and see if he still has them. Thanks again, and if you hear od any, PLEASE let me know. And you're right...Porsche dealer only has complete wiring harness for a kazillion dollars, as I recall.
  8. I posted a question back in early March and had no replies but got 69 views, so perhaps I was unclear what I was asking. Let me paraphrase...I have a Becker CR210 head unit and HAES 4 X 40 amp which I got out of a 2000 Boxster. I'm trying to install the combo into my 914 which currently has no stereo. I wasn't able to get any of the wiring out of the Boxster so I need advice on how to wire what I got. I think I need the "C" female plug from the CR210 head unit and the female plug that goes into the smaller plug on the amp and the larger female plug on the amp which supplies power to the amp and goes to the speakers. Does anyone know of such a wiring harness is available, or where I can find pigtails and I can splice the wires between the female plugs. Perhaps someone performed an upgrade and has those pigtails lying around somewhere? Finally, I would need a pin out of the larger plug in the amp to see what goes where. The amp part number is 986.645.323.00, if that matters. I'm not terribly well versed in stereo wiring, so please keep it as simple as possible. Thanks all.
  9. Wiring harness or pigtail for HAES 4 X 40 Amp -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a spare Becker CR210 radio/head unit that I want to install along with a HAES 4 X 40 Amp (which I got from a Boxster) into a 914. I can get a wiring harness from Becker radio in NJ with the proper radio end plug terminating into 2 RCA jacks which would work with most aftermarket amps (according to Becker). I can't figure out how to connect it to the HAES amp that I own. I don't have any wiring for the amp, and it seems the smaller of the two sockets on the amp is the one that would go to the radio/head unit and the larger pin out to the speakers. So that would mean that I need a wiring harness with a unigue HAES plug on one end terminating into 2 RCA jacks on the other. Is this correct? Does such a thing exist? Does anybody know of a wiring harness that would connect both radio and amp directly? Or how or where to get 2 pigtails (one for radio and one for amp) and splice them together? I can't find anything on internet about parts or wiring harnesses for HAES. Local stereo install shop (Car Toys) are clueless. Can anybody help? Thanks.
  10. I suppose this info has been posted somewhere on the site, but I can't seem to find it. What is the bolt pattern on a 1973 914 4 bolt wheel and what is the length of the lug bolts (threaded area) and tread pitch? If I remember correctly, the way to measure bolt pattern spacing is to measure the diagonal distance between two opposite lug hole (centers), but if I do that, I get 4X130mm but that doesn't sound right...I think 4X100 or 4X112 are more the industry norms, but then again, I know how Porsche always tries to do things differently so that they'd be unique and thus could charge a premium. Also, if I wanted to widen the tires/rims are fender flares absolutely necessary, or could I just change the offset to accommodate the additional width? I'm thinking of trying to go from 15X5.5 to 17X7. Thanks.
  11. I also have a 2000 with the same codes (1128 & 1130) and this forum and others suggested it was an air or vacuum leak. I checked everything out and could not find anything. I didn't notice any drop in performance once the check engine light came on (first time). So I bought a OBDII tester on eBay for $45 and cleared the readings and waited to see if the codes would come back. Car runs great, gas mileage is excellent (approx. 24 in city driving) but the readings come back every other month or so. I notice they're more likely to pop up when the car is idling for a long time. So, I just keep clearing them. It's been about a year, and no negative consequences by not replacing or repairing anything. I passed Colorado emissions test. I'm not recommending you do the same....just thought I'd share my experiences with those readings.
  12. They mix the paint at the shop and they have this special machine that casts different light from different angles and that is how they match. The machine sits on a table and is not mobile. They won't walk in and out of the shop with freshly painted chips to try and match the car. Thehy just don't operate that way. Most cars have a small piece that is removable, and usually it's the gas cap cover. Porsche has that funky pin holding the cover hinge, instead of a couple of screws or bolts, like most cars. Knowing all this, I'm curious to hear your ideas.
  13. The car is not in a body shop. I'm doing the repairs and I need to purchase paint from an auto paint supply. They want a 3"X3" (or greater) paint sample from the car, preferrably from an exposed area to make the perfect match. They have special lighting equipment in their little lab which is where they match the paint to a sample from the car. They take into account fading, metallic density, etc. Of course, the painter (me) has to do the blending into the existing paint finish when spraying. Does this clarify it? I need to bring in a sample piece and I can't find an easily detachable one.
  14. Has anybody found, or can anybody suggest what part of the Boxster is easily removable to bring to the paint shop to color match exterior paint? My first thought was gas cap cover, but that seems to have a rivet that's not easily removed. Then I thought tow hook cover, but mine has a clear bra over it (plus it's kind of small). Any suggestions or recommendations would be welcome. Matching by color code is a start, but to get a true match...the paint shop might have to tweak the formula and requires a piece of the car with OEM color. Mine is 3AZ Ocean Blue Metallic. Thanks.
  15. Sounds like it could be a lot of things.....happened to me too. In my case it was the relay. I went to my local foreign car dealer and asked if I could pull out the relay from one of the used Boxster's he had on the lot. He agreed and the replacement relay fixed the problem. I gave it back, said thanks, and ordered a new replacement from him because of his kindness. Maybe you can do the same? Good luck.
  16. I need to touch up my 2000 Boxster's paint because I had some road debris hit the hood and I sustained a few chips. Mine is Lapis Blue metallic and I wanted to do the repairs myself. My question is....is it worth tracking down original OEM paint (probably manufactured in Germny) or will US made like Dupont or Sherwin-Williams work as well? Does anyone who makes the original paint for Porsche and if they have distributors in US? My biggest concern is matching the metal flake characteristics and unique color variations with changing light conditions. I tend to be anal about being a perfectionist, and no body shop will take as much care in the repairs, as I would. So I'd like to start with the best paint. Thx.
  17. Thanks. The low pressure service port is the one most over to the right side of the car and is connected to the fatter of the two tubes. R-134A fitting doesn't fit on the high pressure service port, as a safety measure.
  18. Can anybody help me locate, by picture or word description (or both) where I can find the low-side A/C service port? I wan to "top off" my A/C system with R-134A for 2000 Boxster, but I'm having a hard time finding the service port. Is it accessed from underneath? I looked around the compressor, but can't seem to locate it. Is it somewhere else? Is there an extra long hose required to reach the port? Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  19. Thanks for the input. Yes, I have a minor leak somewhere, but it is minor since it takes about 6 months to loose enough refrigerent to affect the cooling of the car. Porsche dealer in my area recharged the system last spring while the car was still under warranty (I felt A/C was not cold enough) and dealer service department claimed it was a tad low in pressure but there were no leaks. By late fall, I noticed a loss in cooling efficiency again so I brought it back in the last month of my warranty. They evacuated and recharged the system and again claimed there were no leaks. I don't use A/C in Colorado over the winter so it was not until last week that I tried the A/C again. To my dismay, there is no cooling at all now. That confirms there is a leak. Dealer now tells me that to evacuate and repair the leak will cost more than $300.00 and the car is now out of warranty ....so too bad for me. :-( No guarantee on their diagnosis/repair from last year. Kits are available that come with (3) 12oz. cans of R-134A refrigerent, leak stop with dye, PAG oil lubricant, hose, pressure gauge and couplers that attach to low pressure end of compressor. All that costs around $50.00 and I was hoping that the leak stop may fix the problem since it's probably a dried O-ring, or something minor like that. I'd also check to see if there was a mechanical problem by searching for the red dye. I was going to guess on the amount of oil lubricant...maybe 4 oz., or so. My concern is that I might not really know what I'm doing and I don't want to do serious damage to my system. I figured $40.00 and an hour of my time is a reasonable gamble, but NOT if I screw up my car. If it doesn't work, I can bite the bullet and bring it to a professional repair shopis my reasoning. Any more thoughts? Am I underestimating what it takes to recharge/repair my system? I may also contact Porsche customer care, but I'm not holding my breath that they'll do anything with the dealer and mis-diagnosis. Thx.
  20. Has anyone tried to recharge (top off) their A/C refrigerent? You can buy R-134A kits on eBay and I was wondering if there is anything to prevent one from doing it themselves thereby saving tons of cash. Any insights would be appreciated. This is for a 2000 Boxster.
  21. One more bit of info....if you check the spec's of the tires, you'll see that the overall diameter is larger therefore it will impact the speedometer and front OD should match rear for best handling.
  22. I tried my A/C today after a 4 month winter hiatus. This is on 2000 Boxster. I pressed the A/C button, heard a clunk from the compressor, and get nothing but marginally cool air. Does anyone know if there is a fuse or relay somehow involved with A/C operation? Blower works fine. A/C worked fine last fall. It could be a leak, but any idea of what else it might be before I take it to the dealer? Any suggestions on how I can troubleshoot? Thx.
  23. I checked with Porsche USA, and apparently the color does matter even though the formulations are the same. You can use Audi pink if you flush the entire system since it meets Porsche spec's, but you should never mix Porsche green with Audi pink. There's an issue with possible gelling of the two compounds. I contacted the dealer parts person that gave me the erroneous information and the service tech manager has agreed to flush my system and pick up the tab for labor if I pay for the Porsche antifreeze. I'm doing that tomorrow. Live and learn.
  24. I needed to top off my antifreeze in my 2000 Boxster, and when I went to the Porsche dealer to purchase some, he said I had two options...buy Porsche antifreeze in a 1 litre bottle for $11.50 or buy a gallon of VW/Audi antifreeze (G012A8FA4) for $23.05. So I opted for the gallon which was nearly 4 times the amount for a little more than double the price. I topped the Boxster off but I did notice that the VW/Audi product is pink, while my OEM Porsche antifreeze was/is green. I didn't think it would matter. However, since then, checking with a few shops, they tell me I should never combine antifreeze of different colors, even though the formulations might be the same. Has anybody had any experience with this or could shed some light on this. If they are not compatible, I'd like to bring my car back and have Porsche flush my system and put in the right coolant. On the other hand, if there is no issue with combining the two, I'd hate to make a big stink for nothing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  25. I need to top off my 2000 Boxster with antifreeze and the manual says not to mix other manufacturer's antifreeze with Porsche brand. Any need to heed that warning, or are they all pretty much the same? I know it's a lifetime quality anti-freeze, but I don't really want to pay the dealer price. Is there anywhere else to buy Porsche brand if that is the only one that I should be using? Thx.
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