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Background: 2001 986 S 148,000 miles CEL 0410 and 1411 I know what they are. I've looked at the trouble shooting. Don't have the Durametrics or Porsche Diagnostics -- just a Actron 9575 scanner. The secondary air pump does NOT come on during a cold engine start. A fan noise DOES come on after extended driving (i.e. 45 minutes highway driving and then stopping at a red light) for approx 20-30 seconds and then cycles off. Coolant temps are only in the mid 180's when this happens so I wouldn't think it would be radiator fan noise but I guess it could be. Would the SAI pump cycle thru in that situation? If it would that means it works but not at startup = relay??? As a follow up question - does anyone know exactly what constitutes a driving cycle and how many you need before the SAI shows ready on the monitor? -dtrip
I noticed a radiator fluid odor after driving the other day and after investigating the cause it seems to be a small leak around the water pump. When I rev the engine there is a mist that now comes off the serpentine belt. From underneath the car it appears to be a small drip coming from the belt where it comes around the bottom of the water pump pulley. Question is this. What are the chances that it's just a gasket versus something more ominous with the water pump and/or thermostat? Dave
Anyone ever successfully break in their Boxster? Why you ask? My remote's not working (hasn't for over a year) and the door lock finally quit working. Key turns freely but no resistance. I guess the cable's broken. Naturally it quit working with the doors in the lock position. Really hate to bust the passenger side window but it saves a tow job to the dealership where they'll (I assume) have to do the same thing to get in the car to synch a new remote with the car. Unless anyone has any other ideas???
OK, next question. Any way to have a new key head programmed without the car being present? Thought it might save me a tow job because I can't figure out how to get in the car to drive it to the dealer to have the lock fixed and key programmed.
Did that when I first bought the car and couldn't get the remote to sync with the car. Was going to just wait until I had to have the car serviced and try and piggy back the computer time to save some bucks. Bottom line is that even with a new battery in the remote I can't get the door open unless there's another way to get the remote & car synced.
HELP!!! The remote on my 01 Boxster S hasn't worked for ages but I haven't bothered to have it replaced since the key in the door worked just fine. When I got home tonight and locked the car with the door key I got the short beep alarm warning. Thinking this was strange I unlocked the door with the key, waited a few seconds, and then locked it again. Same short beep. Getting a bit curious I thought maybe the console wasn't closed securely so I went to unlock the door with the key. The key rotates freely 90* each way but with no effect. It's like it's not turning anything but the lock. Naturally the stupid car is locked up tighter than ****'s hatband and I have no way of getting in to even start looking for the problem. Ideas???
Just went over the 100k mark in my '01 Boxster S. Looks fantastic and still runs great. Black with the tan leather interior always turns heads. Bought it about a year ago with 73K on it so not sure what the maintenance picture looked like before that other than dealer maintained. Since I've had it, I've replaced the air/oil separator, the engine belt (precautionary measure), and a right rear wheel bearing. Coming up on the 105k service and am ordering new brake pads, plugs, oil/filter, air filter, particle filter, and manual transmission fluid. I'm starting to get noise from the left rear wheel bearing so that will also be changed. Also need to repair a leak in the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Biggest concern is a very slow leak of engine oil. Not enough to worry about except for the couple of spots it leaves on the driveway. Doesn't require any topping off of oil between the 15k changes. Thought I heard of a TSB which called for replacing the seal on the flywheel side (looks like where it's coming from) but I'm assuming with the mileage, etc that I would have to foot the bill for that. Any one have any ideas? Oh, also had to change out the headlight assembly where some dork had burned the lens with an aftermarket bulb. 400 bucks new but spent enough time on ebay to find a PAIR for $49 plus shipping :D It was missing a tab on one but a little epoxy fixed that issue. Looks brand new. -Trip Greensboro, NC