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octantman

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

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About octantman

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 07/19/1960

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    http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Ancient Rome history, Formula One, ALMS/LMS and Grand Am/Rolex racing, history of GP racing, offshore fishing

Profile Fields

  • From
    Greensboro, NC, USA
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    Infiniti EX35
  • Former cars
    2003 Boxster
  1. Good Morning. So can you tell me which set of bolts you loosened and tightened ? My muffler is supported from 2 bolts on top of the muffler, and by the exhaust pipes themselves. The 2 bolts on the bottom of the muffler are not attached to anything. Of course the components are bolted together at several locations. Alan
  2. Hey, David. This is octantman. I posted the same problem you seem to have been close to fixing, that of the vibration at 3000 to 3200 rpm. I have off and on tried to reason a solution. I cleaned my MAF as a part of replacing my air oil separator a while back and the vibration went away completely, for about a week. Cleaned several more times with temporary results. Replaced it with same temporary results. Today I took the heel of my hand and pounded on the the cat, and that same low frequency vibration was there. So my request is that if I were to take this to an independent shop and get them to raise the system, or otherwise induce tension into the system or brace it, can you help a little bit more? There are too many bolts in the area you describe for me to know which ones are the ones you are referring to. The muffler is hung from the top but the two bolts attached to the bracket on the bottom forward part of the muffler are not attached to anthing. The mounting bracket is different in later models. I have the Bentley manual and there is a nice drawing of my system. Suggestions? I still just want the vibration gone. Thanks, Alan.
  3. Take a look at Pagid, Textar, Mintex and Galfor. I use Pagids, but my car is purely a track car, and I use high MOT, high friction pads. Shop around - you can find some street ones at a decent price. And look at the DIY on how to install brake pads. I have a 2003 Boxster and just replaced all 4 rotors, rear pads and sensors. Had replaced the front pads a year ago. My original pads were (Porsche) Brembos, stamped right on the back plate of the pad. I replaced with Textar. Cannot tell the difference, my car is a daily driver. The symbol stamped on the original rotors is also Brembo but it does not say Brembo. I replaced with Zimmermans. Two came coated and 2 did not. I cleaned really well and painted the hats inside and out and the edges, getting paint inside the 2 plates of each rotor, with silver high temp caliper spray paint. I spent about $500.00 on everything. Did the work in about 2 hours, and I'm just a regular guy. Good luck, it really is a straightforward project for a saturday morning.
  4. Advance Auto sells both products and whereas the MAF cleaner does cost a couple dollars more a clerk overhearing my question about the products being the same said definitely not exactly the same, get the MAF cleaner. You judge, point is Advance Auto sells the MAF Cleaner.
  5. Good afternoon. I have suffered from a vibration that has gotten worse over the years and have participated in posts in the past. I have a simple question after stumbling across this information when monitoring live data from the engine sensors. 2003 Boxster, 65,000 miles, vibration since 8,000 miles. 5 speed manual, original owner, daily driver. Viration only under load. In addition to the Durametreic software, I bought a portable Actron 9180 unit. I have observed that at a steady engine speed of about 3180 rpm the throttle closes from about 18% open to about 8% open all at once. It is at this precise moment that the vibration begins. The MAF confirms about 1/2 of the airflow, too. The ignition advance continues upward and is at about 44 degrees holding steady at this engine speed. When accelerating normally thru this rpm there is no drop in the MAF and throttle position, but there is no vibration, either. This seems to correspond to the rpm in which the resonance valve is activated which I have observed while stationary. I have not recorded higher rpms to see if/when the throttle opens again significantly at a steady rpm. Is this action normal for the Boxster? Do any of you with a 2004 with the dual throttle intake duct have this vibration? If more data would be helpful I can post the Actron data and can collect what Durametric provides, there are over 100 items that can be recorded and would welcome suggestions of what to monitor. Any assistance would be appreciated, even a confirmation that this is normal and look for another cause to the vibration, including raising the muffler as has been suggested in months past. Thanks in advance.
  6. At one time I had the engine compartment open revving slowly up to about 4,000rpm and this flap did operate at about 3,000, although there was no vibration. Could definitely hear something click and indeet you can see the stud on top rotate. There was a lot of oil when cleaning it but did not notice grit. But since I operated it about 5 times plus cleaned the linkage outside with a toothbrush this could be it. So there is something else relatively simple for folks to try. Well, the vibration came back. If Renntech believes this is a misleading post and thread, please remove it in its entirety so people will not think this will solve their vibration problem. It is a fact that the vibration was gone for about 4 days and over 100 miles after this work. I have another question which I will post as a new item.
  7. At one time I had the engine compartment open revving slowly up to about 4,000rpm and this flap did operate at about 3,000, although there was no vibration. Could definitely hear something click and indeet you can see the stud on top rotate. There was a lot of oil when cleaning it but did not notice grit. But since I operated it about 5 times plus cleaned the linkage outside with a toothbrush this could be it. So there is something else relatively simple for folks to try.
  8. George Costanza is an Architect too! :) Does this "line" really work? So between the 2 of us we know just about everything, right George?
  9. Now there is a possibility, I made sure that was clean and functioned fully, operating the linkage attached to ther vacuum canister. I assume you are talking about the (horizontal duct forward of the throttle body) this thing: Silly for Porsche Service to not even try. My explanation is quite elaborate but it is because I spent hours making sure they understood all the conditions precedent to the vibration. Thanks for the evaluation.
  10. Hey, George. I participated in the thread you reference. Had NO vibration when stationary or before warming up to 185 degrees. You may be right so here is what I did: 1. Read and cleared misfire faults cyl 2,4,5. 2. Removed and cleaned (just wiped off oil, used no cleaners) throttle/manifold section and forward manifold section taking care to see that connectors and vacuum tubes had been secure before removing. 3. Removed old AOS. 4. Cleaned MAF. It's connector was secure and clean when removed. 5. Replaced K&N air filter with OEM filter. Used since June 2006 and cleaned annually. Decided to not use based on posts I have seen about K&N not keeping particulate out. Note vibration predated 2006 use of this filter. 6. Cleaned a little oil out of intake air duct that had dripped into it. 7. Installed throttle and manifold section with precise care for alignment and reconnecting of everything. 8. Cranked and ran, cleared other codes for precat O2 sensor and CEL not being present. 9. Been to work and back 3 days, no codes, no vibration. So what could it have been? Alan
  11. All gears but never when stationary. Also, I think VarioCam for Boxsters and 911 are different. Here's what Ludvigsen says on page 1370 of "Excellence" specifically for the 2003 MY and updated VarioCam on the Boxster: "Assurance of enough hydraulic pressure to operate the VarioCam was given by a five-percent increase in the pressure pump's size." Could be one of those times I am over my head, but there it is. Alan
  12. I will tell you first that I am an architect and understand that many things are inter-related, but I do not know how they are inter-related. The theory is has not included the AOS until now. I have believed all along that the VarioCam was the culprit. The valve overlap is controlled by VarioCam somewhere between 1,250rpm to 5,120rpm according to Porache literature but the service manager 5 years ago, who I trust but who is no longer there, told me that the VarioCam is the only thing that "happens" in this 3,000-3,200rpm range, where I have had the vibration. I asked him what was different at this rpm and that was his reply. The vibration started when I took off in the car just to see/feel the power. The car had less than 10,000 miles on it. Got to 80mph in 3rd gear and that was good enough, and short shifted to 5th and let the clutch out. You would have thought I pulled 2 opposing plug wires out. I just knew I had broken something. Put clutch in, slowed a little, then went on. All was fine. Some time later but before the 1 year service I started getting a slight vibration decelerating thru about 3,200rpm to 3,000 rpm. It had gotten worse as time went on, including every time I accelerated thru this rpm, to where driving at 3,200rpm on the highway caused constant vibration. This is at 75 to 80 mph, the exact speed I had to drive for 2 hours going to Kitty Hawk regularly. Made me crazy. To get out of the vibration I either had to slow down or get up to about 85mph, somewhere above 3,500rpm. You can check the graphs, the speed/rpm's match so performance was never affected. Yes, I had a motor mount replaced, had no affect. Transmission replaced early on since they said the pinion gear was chewed up, but I had no symptoms whatever, no affect. They were sure that would fix the vibration. So 5 years of this with no relief. So my AOS blew and I replaced it. While in there I cleaned the MAF just for fun. Now if someone out there tells me the MAF cleaning solved the problem, I'll accept that but even Porsche Service would have tried that. Don't know if it has ever been cleaned but looked pretty good. Have a photo of it before cleaning if you are interested. All I know is trhe vibration is completely gone and I have duplicated all the scenarios that caused the vibration, cannot get even a little shutter. The VarioCam was redesigned for MY2003 to include an oil filled stadia rather than electronic operation. The oil pump was made 5% larger. I got this from "Porsche: Excellence was Expected" and other Porsche literature. Now here is the theory: If I had a breech inside the AOS effectively reducing the oil pressure slightly (5% or more, the pump size increase made to overcome the 2003 VarioCam design?) which affects the valve timing during this rpm transition, would that cause a too long or too short overlap in the valve timing, causing the out of balance vibration? And if the breech got progressively worse would the symptoms get worse? Something happened to get progressively worse, that is a fact. The alternative is that the MAF was dirty. Those are the only 2 things I did, besides cleaning the manifold and throttle. The vibration is gone. Completely. I will admit that one of my greatest faults is to learn a little about something and think I came up with something ingenious. This may be one of these times. If you have the same vibration, clean the MAF. If that works, groovy. If it does not, change the AOS. That is the simple way to look at it. I have no idea if the rpm of the 996 is in the same range or not, so the previous question may not be ansewerd even if it is for the 986. Thanks for sticking with me this long, that is if you are still reading. Architects are imaginative, aren't they? Alan.
  13. Great job! Did you find it a difficult repair? For $90 this must be a DIY correct? Yes, DIY. Took about 3 hours to remove the top manifold sections and throttle and clean all the oil out, but otherwise it was not bad. Anything in the Boxster engine compartment is tight, but the AOS was just a little tedious, that is all. The AOS cost anout $78 and the bottom hose was $12, and that is at the local dealer. I posted a fix and some photos just before this post which goes into a little more detail, but it is mostly about the AOS having blown. If it was just replacing the AOS and not all the clleaning it would be considered almost easy in my mind.
  14. I just replaced my Boxster's AOS on a 2003 with a 2.7L engine, 65,000 miles, 5 speed manual transmission. An unexpected byproduct is that an engine vibration at about 3200 rpm's that Porsche said was normal is completely gone. I also cleaned the MAF but surely that was not the fix. If you have a vibration that occurs after warm up when accelerating thru this rpm, driving on the highway at this rpm, and more pronounced decelerating in gear thru this rpm, and you have not replaced your AOS, you might just want to try this. I would welcome any dissertation anyone out there may have as to why this may be so, although I have my theory and told Porsche that in 2004. Have at it.
  15. Last friday my AOS blew completely. Thanks to this forum I was able to come back from the brink of the abyss and all is well. Most of the AOS posts show or describe a unit that bolts to the side of the engine and has a bellows on the bottom. For the 2003 the unit bolts down directly onto the variocam area without bellows and has an L shaped tube that fits onto the side of the engine. I went with the cut the old hose and replace it route using the hose clamp for the new hose connection to the side of the engine. The newest revision number is .01 and cost about $78. I had the .00 on my 2003. Please be careful with the vacuum tubes if you choose to remove and clean the horizontal manifold sections and throttle. I strongly recommend this if you had a thick white smoke, you will surely have standing oil in the manifold sections. I was about a half quart low after this trial. Also note that I got a lot of fault codes upon starting after cleaning. I also got a lot of white smoke upon restart for 5 minutes or more, but it did not foul or cause additional codes. All fault codes cleared out and everything is lovely. I have a Durametric diagnostic tool. I offer photos for your edification. There are more and I will answer any questions you may have.
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