perryinva

Personally, I'd send the wheel out to Metro Wheels in Atlanta. They will do the kind of R&R that AWRS can't do. every franchise is different but they all just use spray on finish. Metro will bead blast and bake on a new finish for $159 plus shipping each way AND make sure your wheel is sound. Turnaround is less than a week for a wheel. I've seen AWRS repairs that have peeled over time or when new tires are put on.

Ilike the idea, but I don't see where they make a PnP cable for any Porsche....

I know others have used Orients method with success, and seeing as this post has been around for years, maybe my concerns aren't warranted, but I would only jack up one side, put a jack stand on the front and then jack up the other side if I was putting jack stands under the car that just allow enough tire clearance to remove the wheels. I've done it just that way many times. HOWEVER, If you are trying to get the car high in the air for a clutch change or somesuch major work, then there is a definite chance that AS you are you jacking up the other side, the car can slide towards you as it tips towards you off the jack. This danger is directly proportional to how high you jack the car up on the first side & how high the jack stands are. These are variables that are not addressed here and could get someone seriously injured.

My method requires ramps and a second jack, but it doesn't need to be a fancy floorjack. Jacking up your car is no time to skimp on safety to save 5 minutes, or a few bucks for another jack. A 3 ton scissors jack is dirt cheap if you don't want to bother getting out the Porsche one. When I need to get any of my cars up high on 4 jack stands, I always drive the front wheels up a set of Rhino ramps. (Now I WILL state that I've not had the 996 up on jack stands yet, as I've only owned it for 2 weeks, so if this method doesn't work, let me know! Though so far it's worked on every car i've ever owned) The Rhino's have a high stop to prevent the car from rolling forward. I put a wheel chock behind each front wheel on the ramp. Then it depends on what service I am doing, but I normally would then jack from the rear, I assume onthe 996 using the engine jack point., then put only one side rear jack on. Then using the other jack, I'll lift the other side rear jackpoint to lift that side high enough to remove the rhino ramp and install the front jack stand. The objective is to never tip the car in any direction too much. Besides being a bit safer, it also prevents the body from twisting too much because it is not supported evenly at all corners. Now remove the 2nd jack and place a jack stand under the other rear jack point. At this point you have 3 jack stands and one ramp. To get the 4th jack stand under the car requires jacking that corner up eough to get a stand under it. On every other car, there has been some place else that I can put a jack with a 2x4 to distribute the load long eough to get the 4th jackstand in place. At this point it isn't going ver y high or with much weight, compared to cranking up one corner really high. Maybe this isn't possible with the 996, but I'd be surprised. It is also fairly importasnt to make sure that the 4 jackstands are close in height, with both fronts & both rears adjusted to be identical. Just my safety $0.02.

2002 C2 38k miles

All service from new to 3/06 done at dealership

Decent records, all service since 29k done at Indy shop by PO

Front pads & rotors @32k

Coolant expansion Tank @34k

Yearly oil change 0w-40 Mobil 1

New plugs, filters -30k service at 36k

OK, so I read this whole thread in anxious anticipation of toolpants comparison...and nothing except for the pics! Appears the shift lever is a little beefier at the narrows, and the machined ball ends are slightly different in shape, but which , if either is constructed/machined better? If the metal is machined as poorly as the nylon bushings, then B&M here I come. Did anyone ever find out if B&M delrin bushings fit into the knock-offs cups? Thanks!

I have a 2002 C2 with the technic (HI-FI option..I love that...so the stock is LO-FI then?..it's the SAME HU, only the speaker count is different!) I also want to keep the stock look. Your upgrade sounds perfect to me. Just a few questions: How did you a fix the speakers to the OEM frames? Silicone? Does the Becker HU (I have the same as yours) use low level outputs or high level outputs to the amp? Which did you use to the JL Audio amp? WHere did you install the xovers? Any pics? Thanks!

I started with the speakers first. I put Focal 100KP's in the dash, these are component speakers with 4.25 mids and tweeters, they fit with minimal modifications, just cut the old speakers out of the frames and used this frame to secure the mids in place on the grills. the tweeters were held in place with silicone, I think I used a dremel tool a little bit where th tweeters mount, and to cut the frames of the old mids. for the doors I started with a pair of 5.25 mids striped out of a set of Focal 130KP's. they were OK, but not a true sub. They fit in with just a little work with a dremel tools, had to remove some of the reinforcing ribs in the speaker enclosure as the new speakers were deeper and wider at the back.

Ran these with the stock amp and the amp/ohms worked fine. the sound was much better than stock, totally improved. Later I swtiched out the doors for a pair of Focal 5WS, a true sub, but no loner made, Focal now has 13KP and one other 5.25" sub. the true subs were a big improvement over the Mids I originally used. The next step was adding a JL Audio E6450 amp, this is a 6 channel amp, so I have two channels for the dash, tow channel for the rears, and two channels combined for the dor/subs. I also put focal 100CA's in the rear, not really necessary at the rears are only for infill, but it did make a big difference over the stock speakers which are the same as the stock dash speakers.

The new set up with the amp and speakers sounds fantastic, and you can really crank it with any distortion. Now with the small subs you won't ever get the type of base that shakes the whole car, but that is not my desire. some users put 6.5" in the doors, with a little more dremel work, or pur an enclosure in the back, with a cab there are boxes you can put in the rear seats or others that fit behind the front seats, and you can get an 8-10" sub in.

I am still using the stock head unit (CDR220) and the stock 6 disc changer, and the system sounds really good, although the CD sound better than the radio, either the in dash or the changer. I know a new head unit would be even better, but I like the stock look so I am sticking with the stock unit. GOOD LUCK!!